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Explore Spain’s Andalucían Mountains on horseback

International Traveller
Riding through the rustic charm of the Andalucían Mountains on horseback was a journey through the region’s rich history.

Traversing Andalucía’s Serranía de Ronda on horseback is definitely not on the well-worn tourist trail when it comes to Spain, yet here I am, riding a beautiful Hispano Arab named Acecho across ancient trails and hidden paths in a stunning part of the world.

Arriving at Ride Andalucía on a warm southern European winter’s morning, the horses are saddled and ready to go.

Karen, our experienced guide, has spent a lifetime working with horses.

The Andalucían Mountains region has a unique equine tradition.
The Andalucían Mountains region has a unique equine tradition.

The animals selected by the stables are born and bred in the mountains, and are sensible, intelligent, courageous and well trained. Acecho’s name is derived from the famous Bandolero horses and means ‘ambush’.

His lineage is a mix of the three oldest equine breeds, Arab, Andalucían and English TB. These are the most prolific bloodlines on the planet and have earned the nickname ‘Tres Sangres’ – three blood.

Much thought is given to matching horse and rider and guests are escorted by trilingual guides (English, Spanish and French) along ancient trails found for Karen by local horsemen, shepherds, gypsies, farmers and hunters.

The mountains of Andalucía have always been the perfect place for people to make themselves scarce in times of conflict. Fish merchants would also use the trails to carry goods from the coast to villages, mostly from Costa De Sol and the Straits of Gibraltar, travelling with mules in the coolness of night.

Smugglers transported silks and spices into the Andalucían hills, principally from Africa to Ronda, selling them to the Spanish nobility.

The sweeping views of the African coastline and the Mediterranean Sea are just spectacular, and the country we ride through changes constantly: from open countryside and rocky trails to steep mountain climbs and level pathways that can be cantered along.

The horses handle the trails with ease as we journey 1000 metres above sea level, along the edge of breathtaking gorges, where otters can be seen.

As our journey heads back towards the stables, we arrive at the charming village of Gaucín, with its whitewashed villas clinging to the edge of the mountainside.

Gaucín has a rich history: its cave paintings have withstood the test of time from the prehistoric era; Roman soldiers rested here after the battle between Julius Caesar and the sons of Pompey in 45BC; King Henry IV liberated it in 1457, before the Moorish population rebelled against the Catholic kings in the 16th century, killing soldiers and priests.

It was the Moors who gave Gaucín its modern name: ‘hard rock’.

The fertile hills of Andalucía in Spain give way to mountains and their ancient trails.
The fertile hills of Andalucía give way to mountains and their ancient trails.

In 1713, nearby Gibraltar was ceded to the British and by the end of the century British Gibraltarians were making the trip to Gaucín to spend the summer months in the coolness of the mountains, as some still do today.

When the French invaded in 1808, during the Napoleonic Wars, 700 experienced mountain guerrillas tried futilely to defend the town’s castle, but the invaders slayed the citizens and destroyed the town.

This is when ‘bandolerismo’ became a career; bandoleros preyed on travellers and townsfolk, robbing and killing at liberty.

The town was captured by nationalists in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War and today the mountain retreat is an abundance of culture that refelects the rich tapestry of its past.

It is a place of tranquillity and natural beauty that has retained an authentic and charming village feel.

According to Karen, the thing she loves the most about her business is the allure of exploring and discovering the ancient trails and history of this fabulous countryside.

These rides have a real sense of adventure coupled with the unique appeal of riding locally bred horses, all while enjoying outstanding views of the Mediterranean Sea and beyond.

It’s something I will never forget, and I will definitely return here on my next journey to Spain.

 

 

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Spain's Andalucían Mountains on horseback - International Traveller