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Switzerland by train: the journey from Lucerne to Montreaux

International Traveller

Passing lakes, Alps and meadows, a Switzerland train journey through the Bernese Oberland allows you to sit back and watch the scenery roll by, writes Linda Moon

 

After taking in the delights of the fairytale lake city Lucerne, I’m standing at its train platform bound for my next adventure. My end destination is the Alpine village and ski resort of Gstaad, 134 kilometres to the west through the picturesque Bernese Oberland.

The GoldenPass Line, a rail route between Lucerne in Central Switzerland and Montreux in the Lake Geneva region, offers one of the best ways to get from Lucerne to Gstaad, taking about three hours.

Named one of the country’s best train trips by Swiss Travel System CEO Maurus Lauber, the route promises panoramic vistas of hinterland lakes, dramatic mountains and more, all in laidback comfort.

 

chalet attractions gstaad switzerland
Enchanting chalet in Gstaad, Switzerland.

 

As different railway companies operate the trains on the GoldenPass Line, I’ll be boarding three separate trains to reach my destination.

While it sounds tricky, the journey is made easier with the Swiss Travel Pass – this can be pre-ordered online or purchased at railway stations throughout the country.

According to Lauber, “it’s one ticket for the whole country" and the pass includes all bus, train and boat trips, plus 50 per cent off mountain railways (another bonus is that it provides free access to more than 490 museums around the country).

According to Lauber, the Swiss are in love with travelling by train: the Swiss Travel System boasts the densest public transport network in the world.

Working out my train itinerary proves fairly easy. This can be done at the tourist information offices at any major railway station or Bahnhof in the country, or you can plot your schedule online at the user-friendly Swiss Federal Railways site.

The first part of my journey starts on the Luzern-Interlaken Express, where a handsome employee helps me get my heavy suitcase aboard.

As the train glides away, I’m pleased by the immaculate, modern, air-conditioned interior. Expansive glass windows allow unfettered views to the outside. There’s a restaurant onboard and remarkably clean, roomy toilets.

Passing through the Brünig mountain pass and along the shores of lakes so blue they seem enchanted, we arrive at Interlaken – the first changeover point – almost two hours later.

Located in a valley between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, and shadowed by the Bernese Alps, Interlaken is one of the most striking parts of the country and the intersection of three major railway lines.

 

Lucerne train station
Lucerne’s grand train station. Switzerland.

 

There’s only five minutes to change platforms, and lugging my gigantic suitcase up and down staircases proves challenging. Puffing, I board the RegioExpress, a regular but still comfortable fast train.

Skirting the shores of Lake Thun and the hills of the Simmental valley, another hour or so passes easily.

At Zweisimmen I board the GoldenPass Panoramic Fast Train for the final stage. Beyond the window, church steeples rise and tiny villages lie in what seems precarious positioning beneath mountain peaks fringed with dark fir forest.

Dotted with apple trees and farmhouses, splashed with geraniums and torn by streams and rushing rivers, the green countryside is clothed in all its summer glory, but it is said to be equally lovely in any season – which I can easily believe.

Essentially a quick, fly-by overview of the region, trains are a mode of travel that best suits those who like to relax and enjoy the scenery, or travellers on a deadline who want to get from one part of the country to another in the easiest, quickest and most reliable manner possible.

Twenty-five minutes later I alight at Gstaad, a peaceful rural stop deep in the Swiss countryside far from the madding crowd where birds chatter in the sun amongst the flower boxes of its traditional chalet buildings.

A castle and great mountains (including the impressive 3237-metre Wildhorn), loom large over the village façade.

Stretching my legs and drawing in the country air, I walk towards my guide, relaxed and revitalised by my journey and ready to see what Gstaad has to offer.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Switzerland rail journey - an iconic voyage - International Traveller