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Le Marais: five steps to cultural enlightenment

Leigh-Ann Pow walks a warren of galleries, boutiques and bars in Paris’s coolest neighbourhood, Le Marais.

One of the City of Lights’ most evocative areas, Le Marais boasts a rich, colourful history. It was a favoured area of the bourgeoisie throughout the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries; has been the epicentre of the city’s Jewish population since the late 19th century; and is now the focal point of the LGBT community.

 

Spread across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, Le Marais is a riot of cobbled streets, pretty squares and compelling architecture, with chic bars, restaurants and design stores squeezed into its historic façades. Take a stroll down rue de Thorigny and finish on rue Elzévir.

1. Le Wood

A chic restaurant cum bar, Le Wood (1 Place de Thorigny) has a funky wood interior with sharp shots of green, and a lovely light yellow and white enclosed terrace.

 

There’s also a schmoozy lounge area with big comfy sofas that envelop you when you sit down with a cocktail from the bar. The food is excellent, with giant salads and a sublime croque-monsieur.

2. Méert

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Those with a sweet tooth should head to Méert while in Paris, it’s famous for the flavoured waffles.

Directly across the road from Le Wood, the fondée Méert originated in Lille way back in the 18th century.

 

Inside its historic Le Marais storefront it’s like an exquisite time capsule, with displays of lovely little decorated and wrapped boxes of candied flowers, marshmallows, caramels and chocolates, work-of-art pastries and the flavoured waffles it is famous for.

3. Musée Picasso

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Recently renovated Musée Picasso in Paris houses more than 5000 paintings, drawings and sculptures.

When the Musée Picasso closed for renovations back in 2009, the process was to take just two years.

 

It reopened in late 2014 after five years and $74 million worth of renovations that tripled the exhibition space, allowing for more of the 5000 paintings, drawings and sculptures, as well as pieces from the artist’s personal collection, to go on display.

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4. Musée Cognacq-Jay

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Exterior or Musée Cognacq-Jay in Paris. Home to paintings, ceramics and sculptures.

The Musée Cognacq-Jay houses the art collection of Ernest Cognacq, founder of La Samaritaine department stores, and his wife Marie-Louise Jay. You’ll find paintings, sculpture and ceramics.

5. Leclaireur

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Inverted wooden birds nest at Leclaireur in Paris.

Leclaireur prides itself on its design principles, bringing together a meticulously curated collection of fashion and objects that ‘always looks ahead, engaging with what will come… it is our duty to seduce and to surprise’.

 

The store interiors definitely fit that bill, with what looks like a giant inverted wooden bird’s nest dominating the space and walls clad in silver cardboard offcuts.

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
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    Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

    Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

    And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

    Why is it so hot in Europe?

    Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

    France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

    In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

    The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

    Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

    How travel is impacted

    A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
    A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

    During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

    If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

    Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

    people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
    People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

    With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

    Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

    How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

    Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

    Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

    Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.