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Japan to India: 22 must-have cultural experiences across Asia

Asia is full of incredible cultural experiences to be had. From incredible cuisine to art-filled islands, here’s where to dip your toe in across the continent.

1. A journey of Asian gastronomy onboard Silversea

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

Travel engages all senses, but the most gratifying way to experience a destination is through taste.

a close-up of food at S.A.L.T. Kitchen, Silversea
Savour rich Asian flavours with S.A.L.T. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

Luxe cruise line Silversea has introduced its S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) immersive culinary program to its Asian itineraries, weaving the essence of local cuisine into an array of culturally rich experiences, from cooking classes to market tours to meeting local chefs, as it sails everywhere from Hong Kong to Taipei to Seoul and beyond.

food stalls in Hong Kong, China
Taste your way around Hong Kong. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

These experiences may include learning how to cook the coastal cuisine of Kerala, meeting the artisans who create Japanese knives and joining a Michelin-starred chef for a tour in Pattaya, all while delving into the history, stories and spirit of each destination through flavours, smells and meals shared among like-minded travellers.

tall buildings in Hong Kong, China
Take in the city skyline upon arrival in Hong Kong. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

2. Sample Cantonese food at Lingnan House in China

Travelling with: Kee Foong

If you’ve ever had dim sum, char siu (barbecue pork) or wonton noodles, then you’ve had Cantonese food. The cuisine, characterised by freshness and lightness, originated in the coastal Guangdong (formerly Canton) province in southern China. Among its best proponents is the Michelin-starred Lingnan House in the Rosewood Guangzhou.

the dining area at Lingnan House
Inside the Michelin-starred Lingnan House. (Image: Owen Raggett)

Tuck into favourites such as har gow (shrimp dumplings) and perfectly steamed fish, as well as innovative dishes such as shredded geoduck with black truffle, or an eye-popping roasted goose stuffed with fish maw, which must be ordered ahead. Go with a group, be adventurous, and you’ll be in for a culinary treat.

Angel Hair Pasta with shrimp at Lingnan House
The angel hair pasta with shrimp is a menu highlight.

3. See Hong Kong’s neon lights

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

Neon advertisements have illuminated Hong Kong’s night sky since the 1920s, becoming part of the city’s cultural and visual landscape. Although the neon that once tumbled down the city’s stratospheric buildings is steadily disappearing, you can still see it in glowing pockets such as Temple Street Market, Tung Choi Street and Lockhart Road.

neon signs in Kowloon, Hong Kong
Hong Kong’s night sky is aglow with neon signs. (Image: Nikada/Getty Images)

The post-war era saw the handmade practice – of blowing, sculpting and shaping delicate gas-filled glass tubes – competing with mass production. But the making of neon signs is now considered a traditional artform with a new generation of artists keeping it alight. Make your way to M+ museum, which has a permanent exhibition on Conserving Neon Culture with a collection of iconic lights on display.

4. Attend a fire, sake and snow festival in Japan

Travelling with: Lara Picone

Sake-fuelled firefighting in the name of prosperity is always a good idea. But this isn’t firefighting to extinguish flames. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. A towering shrine becomes the centrepiece of a battle between the town’s menfolk at the 300-year-old Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival, held on 15 January each year in Nagano Prefecture.

the Nozawa Fire Festival in Nagano Prefecture
The fire festival has been running for over 300 years. (Image: David Kleyn/Alamy)

Atop the wooden structure sits Nozawa’s 42-year-old men, while the 25-year-olds below stand guard, exerting much effort to prevent the rest of the male villagers from setting the whole thing alight. Spoiler alert: it gets lit. In more ways than one on account of all involved consuming noteworthy amounts of sake. As the flames rise, the men seated on the pyre endure the heat for as long as possible before jumping to safety. It’s a wild time worth aligning your ski trip with.

5. Visit Japan’s art islands

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

Of some 3000 islands within the Seto Inland Sea, a group of 12 remote islands in Kagawa Prefecture have become a pilgrimage for art lovers. Setouchi Triennale was launched in 2010 to revitalise these sleepy island communities. It encouraged emerging artists, reimagined empty, abandoned spaces and has aided the preservation of traditional arts.

the Naoshima Island in Japan
Naoshima Island has become an avant-garde cultural hub. (Image: Sonja Blom/Alamy)

While art is found all over, the once-quiet fishing hub of Naoshima has become an avant-garde cultural hub comprising a collection of museums, installations and outdoor artworks. It’s home to the famed oversized pumpkin sculpture by nonagenarian artist Yayoi Kusama. Visit by boat from the Port of Takamatsu.

Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin on Naoshima Island
See the pumpkin sculpture by nonagenarian artist Yayoi Kusama. (Image: Anthony Shaw/Alamy)

6. Spend the night in Japan’s temple town of Koyasan

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

Hugged by eight mountain peaks on a soaring 900-metre plateau, the temple town of Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture is a spiritual centre for Shingon Buddhism in Japan. Only accessible by train and cable car, the World Heritage site dates back some 1200 years and comprises more than 100 temples, many of which you can stay overnight in.

a Koyasan monk sitting beside a cat
Rise with the sun to join monks in daily prayers. (Image: SAND555UG/Shutterstock)

Wendy Wu Tours has included Koyasan in four itineraries where guests overnight in a tatami room, savour shojin ryori (traditional Buddhist cuisine) and rise with the sun to join monks in daily prayers.

the Kongobuji Temple in Koyasan, Japan
The temple town of Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture is a spiritual centre. (Image: AMSTK/Shutterstock)

7. Sample plov at a homestay in Uzbekistan

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

Plov is more than simply a meal in Uzbekistan: it’s a powerful, unifying force. There are more than 50 variations around the country, all with a base of rice, onions, carrots and meat. These are combined in giant cast-iron kazans and the deliciously sweet, oily dish that emerges has fed nomadic shepherds and wandering armies for millennia.

uzbek pilaf with meat in plate
Plov is more than a meal in Uzbekistan. (Image: Diy13/Getty Images)

You can find plov everywhere from roadside stalls to high-end restaurants, but the best version you’ll ever taste is at a homestay, where family members carefully tend the fire beneath the kazan before sharing in a lavish banquet. Experience this on Intrepid Travel’s nine-day Uzbekistan Adventure.

8. Marvel at Mongolian throat singing

Travelling with: Dilvin Yasa

In a packed Ulaanbaatar theatre, there’s a feeling an exorcism may soon be required. On stage, a local vocalist is not only droning a deep guttural hum, but several higher pitched melodies, so that he is essentially a one-man music box.

Soon, the Mongolian throat singing (as this style of vocalisation is known) is complemented by contortionists, classic dancers in vibrant costumes, and – somewhat unnervingly – an orchestra featuring the morin khuur (essentially a vielle, a medieval bowed instrument, with a horse head).

Created in 1989, the renowned Tumen-Ekh Ensemble is all about introducing the wider world to the Mongolian Traditional Arts, making a night at the theatre the perfect start or finish to a Mongolia trip. Can’t get to Ulaanbaatar anytime soon? Check out The Hu band on YouTube for a taste.

the throat singing band Huun‐Huur‐Tu
Experience the art of Mongolian throat singing. (Image: Gonzales Photo/Alamy)

9. A foodie tour of Malaysia

Travelling with: Emily McAuliffe

Malaysia is a country laden with flavour, owing to its diverse cultural mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian ethnic groups and spice-infused regional specialities. Each region has its own signature flavours, from the creamy laksas of Penang’s food stalls to the sweet white coffee of Ipoh.

Take a foodie Vespa tour with Vespalicious, zig-zagging through Kuala Lumpur to learn about the local foodie scene. You’ll sample satay skewers and the country’s most famous dish, nasi lemak at bustling hawker centres fragrant with spices. Cap it all off with a cocktail at the swanky level 51 sky bar at EQ Kuala Lumpur, taking in glittering views of the Petronas Twin Towers.

plates of food on the table in Malaysia
Dive into the local foodie scene in Malaysia. (Image: Emily McAuliffe)

10. See Pakistan’s elaborately decorated trucks

Travelling with: Alexis Buxton-Collins

You’ve checked the pressure in the tyres, made a playlist and stocked up on snacks. There’s only one more essential ingredient for a successful road trip in Pakistan – making sure your ride is suitably decorated. Gawking at the elaborately decorated trucks that ply the mountainous highways is one of the delights of Intrepid Travel’s 10-day Trek Pakistan’s Karakorum Mountains adventure. But seeing them up close at a workshop completely overwhelms the senses.

a colourful Pakistan truck
Pakistan trucks are elaborately decorated. (Image: Intrepid Travel/Patrick O’Neill)

Teams of workers ensure that dazzling geometric patterns fill every surface of duco down to the fuel caps. They also add flourishes such as mirror mosaics, flashing lights and multicoloured tassels to further transform even the most humble of vehicles into bona fide head-turners.

a Pakistan truck worker
An artist creating the dazzling geometric patterns that adorn the trucks. (Image: Intrepid Travel/Patrick O’Neill)

11. Experience the cultural extravaganza of India’s Kumbh Mela

Travelling with: Catherine Marshall

“Welcome to Mother Ganga, Mother Yamuna, Mother Saraswati," the Brahmin priest says as he dips his thumb into a pot of crimson puja powder and dabs it onto my forehead. “Everybody comes here to pray for the best future." From Allahabad’s river confluence I see millions of Hindu devotees converging on the shoreline and performing sun salutations in the shallows. They’ve come from near and far to attend the world’s biggest religious festival, Kumbh Mela. The six-week-long cultural extravaganza alternates every three years between Allahabad, Haridwar, Nashik and Ujjain – four cities upon which the droplet of immortality is said to have fallen during a fight between gods and demons.

participants at the Kumbh Mela of Allahabad
Kumbh Mela is a six-week-long cultural extravaganza. (Image: Catherine Marshall)

12. Travel through India’s most colourful state of Rajasthan

Travelling with: Imogen Eveson

India’s north-western state of Rajasthan is known for its colour: a land of marigold and saffron, desert rose and lotus pink. Even its cities form a spectrum – from the Pink City of Jaipur to the Blue City of Jodhpur, the Golden City of Jaisalmer and the White City of Udaipur. And each one dazzles with richly layered architecture; its forts and palaces display proud Rajput heritage that speaks of kingdoms gone by.

a rose-coloured building in Jaipur, India
One of the many pink-painted marvels of Jaipur. (Image: EyeEm Mobile GmbH/Getty Images)

Travel in style with an operator such as Abercrombie & Kent to feel like a maharaja or maharani when checking into a palace hotel. A welcome shower of rose petals befits a place of so much colour.

Patrika Gate in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
Patrika Gate is renowned as the most colourful door in India. (Image: Flavio Foglietta/Getty Images)

13. Meet the barefoot booksellers of the Maldives

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

Malsa Maaz was the ideal candidate for the position of Barefoot Bookseller at Soneva Jani. The role was created by co-founder of Soneva luxury holiday resorts Sonu Shivdasani and CEO of Ultimate Library Philip Blackwell to curate bespoke lists of recommended reading for guests at the luxe brand.

an aerial view of a beach resort in Maldives
Unwind in luxury in the Maldives. (Image: Melanie Maya/Getty Images)

One of the aims of the beachside bookshops, now at Soneva Jani and Soneva Fushi, is to ‘inspire a love of the ocean and the local environment’. Malsa, who grew up on the nearby island of Male, feels well placed to do just that. Fall back into the rhythm of reading with titles such as Treasure Island or Moby Dick.

Malsa Maaz barefoot bookseller at Soneva Jani
Meet Barefoot Bookseller Malsa Maaz at Soneva Jani.

14. Sip a Singapore Sling at Raffles

Travelling with: Megan Arkinstall

In 1915, Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon set out to create a cocktail that was socially acceptable for ladies to drink in public. The resulting pink-hued beverage became an instant hit and made the Long Bar at Raffles Singapore a cultural institution.

the interior of Raffles Long Bar Singapore
Pull up a chair at the 1920s-style bar. (Image: Ralf Tooten)

A sweet-and-sour mix of gin, pineapple and lime juice, curaçao, cherry liqueur and DOM Bénédictine, the Singapore Sling is poured across the country. But the 1920s-style bar is a nostalgic experience, ensconced in dark wood with rattan furniture, oscillating ceiling fans and a monochromatic tiled floor that is perpetually scattered with peanut shells.

a Singapore Sling at Raffles Long Bar
Drink a Singapore Sling at Raffles Long Bar. (Image: Ralf Tooten)

15. Hike Bali’s Astungkara Way

Travelling with: Sarah Reid

Wahyu and Ayu mightn’t look like typical farmers. But this savvy young Balinese couple have successfully transformed a neglected plot of land into a thriving organic farm. They’re just two inspiring locals you’ll meet on the Astungkara Way, a 10-day, 135-kilometre traverse across Bali that’s designed to connect walkers with Balinese communities and low-impact farmers.

walking the Astungkara Way in Bali
Meet inspiring locals on the Astungkara Way. (Image: Sarah Reid)

Named for a Balinese expression of hope, the guided hike can also be tackled in smaller chunks, including the three-day journey I sign up for. Along the way we camp in traditional family compounds, feast on fresh homegrown produce and hike deep into the beating heart of Bali.

fresh homegrown produce, Astungkara Way, Bali
Feast on fresh homegrown produce. (Image: Sarah Reid)

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16. Make ceramics in Uluwatu

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

Hand-crafting clay into ceramics is one of Indonesia’s most ancient traditions. And while every island in the archipelago has its own distinct style, learning the centuries-old technique of shaping clay on a hand-spun wheel helps preserve the craft for future generations.

a ceramic pottery class at Anantara Uluwatu
Hand-craft clay on a wooden wheel. (Image: Aary Bestari)

It’s one of the cultural activities on offer at Anantara Uluwatu, where guests sit with a local Balinese potter to learn how to craft the clay on a wooden wheel. What makes this tactile experience so special is the generosity of the staff who can take the ephemeral earthenware to the nearby temple and make an offering on your behalf.

17. A spiritual journey in Sri Lanka

Travelling with: Christine Aldred

Dawn is breaking over Kandy, and I’m joining local devotees at the Temple of the Tooth, the nation’s most sacred site which houses a tooth relic of Buddha himself. It’s quiet as I approach the large temple, almost ethereal, its white form glowing in the soft morning light. Inside, the quiet is immediately replaced by a sporadic cacophony of drums and trumpets.

Even at this hour, the temple is heaving with people young and old bringing an endless sea of stunning floral offerings – tiny lotus and blue and hot pink lilies. The sheer volume of worshippers is a testament to the devotion of the people, many whom travel from far to visit this temple at least once in their lives.

Kandy Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Sri Lanka
Visit the Kandy Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. (Image: Mark Daffey/Intrepid Travel)

18. See the balletic fishermen of Myanmar’s Lake Inle

Travelling with: Catherine Marshall

The stage is a sheet of polished silver, the prop a floating pagoda, the soundtrack a slap of shallow water and a ripple of duck song. I see an audience of stilted villages wading close to shore from my tour boat and the amphitheatre of Shan Mountains traced against the sky.

Now a dancer glides into the scene: an Intha fisherman balancing one-legged on the bow of his canoe. He pirouettes and pliés, his working leg steering the upright oar, his hands plucking from the water a bouffant tutu: a saung (conical fishing net), which has been used by his forefathers, it’s said, since the 12th century.

leg-rowing fishermen on Inle Lake, Myanmar
Intha fishermen dance at the tip of their canoes. (Image: Prime Images/Getty Images)

19. Explore Cambodia’s floating villages

Travelling with: Catherine Marshall

Cambodia’s ‘forgotten people’ shift with the tides on Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, Tonle Sap. The swampy, forested shoreline to which their floating villages are tethered expands during the monsoon and shrinks when the clouds have wrung themselves dry.

the villagers in Tonlé Sap, Cambodia
Meet the local women of Tonlé Sap. (Image: Catherine Marshall)

The villagers, who are mostly of Vietnamese heritage, remain landless despite having lived here for generations. Life drifts along in this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve: at dawn, the men sail to the lake’s deep centre to fish; the women paddle ashore and sell baskets of produce at the market. Grandparents tend the floating gardens and livestock pens and mind the children born on this ephemeral body of water.

an aerial view of Cambodian Village of Kampong Phluk (Harbor of the Tusks)
The floating villages are perched on stilts. (Image: MLenny/Getty Images)

20. An expedition in the Philippines’ pristine Palawan islands

Travelling with: Carla Grossetti

Tao Philippines is a socially conscious operator that guides guests around the pristine Palawan islands. Pinball between El Nido, Linapacan and Coron onboard colourful wooden paraws, traditional vessels that offer access to world-class dive and snorkel spots across the Philippines. Bomb off the boat to dive coral reefs or swim in sheltered coves.

guests aboard a boat in Palawan, Philippines
Visit the Palawan islands with Tao Philippines. (Image: Scott Sporleder)

Curl up on a sun-drenched spot on the deck with a good book. And fall asleep to the sound of waves kissing the shore in off-grid bamboo base camps. In addition, all Tao Philippines tours offer opportunities to visit local communities and learn about their culture.

21. See the temples of Chiang Mai

Travelling with: Elizabeth Whitehead

The ornate temples of Chiang Mai are a legacy of the Lanna Kingdom that emerged in Northern Thailand in the 13th century. More than 300 Buddhist wats are scattered throughout the region, each a mesmerising example of Thailand’s unique temple architecture.

Wat Pha Lat, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Wat Pha Lat temple is nestled within the jungle. (Image: Mark Fitzsimons/Getty Images)

Many wats are full of legends, such as Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a shimmering golden stupa said to contain the shoulder bone of the Buddha that arrived on the back of a white elephant. Visitors can make like the monks of yesteryear and follow an old pilgrimage trail up to Wat Pha Lat, a peaceful temple sequestered in the jungle.

22. Experience life on the Mekong

Travelling with: Kassia Byrnes

The sun is still low in the sky, but the humidity is already making my skin glisten. Close to shore, stilt houses cling to the banks. The occupants have taken to their sampans to get chores done before the heat makes it impossible. Already, a nón lá (conical leaf hat) is essential.

a boat on the Mekong River
The Mekong is the world’s most biodiverse river. (Image: Kassia Byrnes)

This is the Mekong Delta, and we’ve just crossed from the peaceful, almost empty river of Cambodia into a hotbed of life in Vietnam overnight. Cruising it with AmaWaterways is a whole new way to experience this fascinating part of Asia, stopping into tiny farming towns and larger cities alike, who all draw their vibrant livelihood from this river.

the AmaWaterways on the Mekong
Sail the iconic Mekong with AmaWaterways. (Image: Kassia Byrnes)
This round-up of cultural experiences is part of our curated list of 100 Cultural Experiences, explore the full list here.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal