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How to make the most of 48 hours in Beijing

China’s capital shifts between imperial scale and a hyper-digital present where daily life runs at speed. Here’s how to spend two days in Beijing, moving through its landmarks, hutongs and street-level rituals.

Arriving in Beijing feels less like moving forward in time and more like side-stepping into a version of it that is already in mid-sprint. It’s a city that moves with remarkably little friction.

The shopping malls glow late into the night, and daily routines – booking tickets, hailing rides or finding a meal – are all handled through apps that replace cash, queues and even small talk.

But that’s not the Beijing most visitors pack for. A city with this much historical weight is often reduced to its greatest hits: the golden rooftops of the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall draped over the hills like a mythical, stone-scaled beast.

Qing Dynasty gowns at Summer Palace, Beijing
Ladies donning Qing Dynasty gowns at the Summer Palace. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

If you spend a little time at street level though, it becomes something else entirely. In the hutongs (ancient alleyways) that curl around the old imperial core, residents sweep courtyards, bicycles rattle over uneven paving stones and breakfast stalls send up steady clouds of steam from dumplings.

With Australians now able to visit China visa-free for up to 30 days, it’s an unusually easy moment to experience the ancient capital where imperial history and a digital present sit just a few streets apart. This is our ultimate two-day Beijing itinerary.

Day one: Touring the city’s icons

a contemporary suite at The Peninsula Beijing
The Peninsula Beijing offers luxe, contemporary rooms. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

Start the day with a breakfast food tour, the most efficient way to get acquainted with Beijing’s sensory logic. The Peninsula Beijing, the city’s resident ‘grand dame’ of luxury, is famous for its proximity to the iconic sights, but its real secret is a little black book of local guides. Among them is Garth, an Australian who turned a gap year into a 14-year residency.

the entrance to The Peninsula Beijing
And wows from the moment you reach its grand entrance. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

The tour slips away from the hotel’s marble lobby and into the nearby hutongs to sample jianbing, a crisp, savoury breakfast crepe that is arguably the city’s greatest culinary export. You’ll find yourself gorging on dumplings, ‘tofu brains’ and other breakfast dishes locals eat daily.

Shumai northern Chinese steamed beef dumplings
Shumai dumplings. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

The route winds through narrow lanes lined with siheyuan (courtyard homes), of which only about 1000 remain, for an unvarnished glimpse of old Beijing, caught between the cracks of a rapidly rising skyline.

From the hotel, it’s a five-minute drive or 30-minute walk to the Forbidden City. For 600 years, this was the residential enclave of the Ming and Qing emperors, a place designed to make you feel very small and the occupant feel very powerful.

Everything here is dictated by obsessive symmetry; a rhythmic repetition of red walls and gold-tiled roofs that stretches across the complex. From there, it’s a short walk to Tiananmen Square, one of the largest public city squares in the world.

Zhengyangmen Gate at Tiananmen Square
Historic gate at Tiananmen Square. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

At its centre is the Monument to the People’s Heroes, with Tiananmen Gate to the north, topped by Mao Zedong’s portrait. Entry is free, but tickets must be booked well in advance as they often sell out.

coffee stop on breakfast tour, Beijing
Secure your caffeine hit for the morning. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

After a long day of eating, walking, and no doubt dodging crowds at the sights, retreat to The Peninsula Spa to decompress. It has quite a global reputation with Chinese, Ayurvedic and European therapies all featuring on the menu.

It’s the perfect place to scrub off the city’s frenetic energy. Once your treatment is finished, don’t rush to your room; instead, take a lap through the thermal bathing facilities to ensure the relaxation actually sticks.

Taikoo Li Sanlitun, Beijing
Fill your shopping bags at Taikoo Li Sanlitun. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

If shopping is part of the plan, book a DiDi (20-minute drive) to Taikoo Li Sanlitun. Best visited in the afternoon, ‘the Village’ is an open-air complex of low-rise buildings and courtyards, with global luxury labels like Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. alongside local designers.

It functions more like a public square than a traditional mall, making it one of Beijing’s more unexpected pockets to simply drift and watch the city’s hyper-modern fashion subcultures collide.

Peking duck at Li Qun Roast Duck Restaurant, Beijing
Li Qun Roast Duck Restaurant carves duck tableside. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

No trip to Beijing is complete without Peking duck. Another concierge recommendation leads to Li Qun Roast Duck Restaurant, a 10-minute drive from the hotel. Tucked down a narrow alley behind plastic strip curtains, it doesn’t look like much at first, but inside it opens into a dining room strung with red lanterns, where staff glide between tables carrying burnished, whole roast ducks. The duck is carved tableside and served with a DIY assembly line of house-made pancakes, sticky hoisin, fresh vegetables and crunchy eggplant.

Day two: food, architecture and hands-on fun

Great Wall of China in the snow
Walk along the Great Wall. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

It’s an early start for the 90-minute drive to the Great Wall of China. The hotel’s tour (72 hours’ notice required) includes a guided walk and, if the weather plays nice, a helicopter ride for a dizzying view of this seventh wonder from above.

It’s open year-round, but there is something undeniably cinematic about watching chunky snowflakes settle across the ancient ramparts.

tanghulu at Summer Palace
Snack on street food such as tanghulu at Summer Palace. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

On the drive back, stop at the Summer Palace (tickets available at the entrance), a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of China’s largest and best-preserved imperial gardens.

Once a lakeside retreat for royals, it’s set around Kunming Lake, where brightly patterned mandarin ducks drift across the water, and the Seventeen-Arch Bridge links the shoreline to Nanhu Island.

colourful mandarinducks at the Summer Palace
Spot colourful mandarin ducks at the Summer Palace. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

Go behind the scenes with The Peninsula Academy’s dumpling-making class (72 hours’ notice required), which begins at a wet market. After gathering fresh ingredients, you’ll head back to the hotel’s Cantonese restaurant, Huang Ting.

braised beef noodles, Beijing
Savour braised beef noodles. (Credit: Natasha Bazika)

Under the watchful eye of a dim sum chef, you’ll learn the art of seasoning, rolling and folding dough before sitting down to a set menu of beef short ribs with preserved lemon, Boston lobster, and of course, your very own handmade creations.

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Suite dreams: how to get to Beijing

The new Aria Suites from Cathay Pacific make the journey to Beijing via Hong Kong feel smooth from the start, with sliding privacy doors, lie-flat beds and oversized entertainment screens.

During the layover, relax at The Pier First Class Lounge, offering complimentary 15-minute massages and a dining experience by Hong Kong’s renowned Cantonese restaurant Mott 32, before the final leg to Beijing.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal