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Pushing through a desert storm in Jordan

When one of our readers travelled to Jordan she expected to be met with sand and heat. What she got was snow and cold…

I love adventure. I love a challenge. I love being thrown out of my comfort zone. At least I thought I did until my all-too-brief trip during a storm in Jordan in December.

 

I had arrived in Dubai having spent two weeks in Kathmandu and made the impetuous, last-minute decision to jump on a flight to Jordan the very next morning. I did contemplate Yemen (Google ‘Socotra’ and you’ll see why) but I didn’t want my parents to cut me out of their will. A country bordered by Syria, Iraq, Israel and Saudi Arabia was clearly the safer option!

 

Spontaneous adventure is great but I usually like to arrive at a destination well researched and fully prepared. But with only hours between booking my seat and arriving at the airport, something had to give. Besides, I knew the basics: Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, and non-Gulf Arabs. I’d be fine.

 

Something seemed amiss, however, when I boarded the plane in a T-shirt and noticed everyone else was carrying heavy coats, beanies and scarves. Did they know something that I didn’t? Of course they did.

 

Upon landing at Queen Alia International Airport the pilot announced that it was -1ºC outside. I was spectacularly unprepared in terms of clothing.

 

Prior to leaving Dubai, I had decided to book a rental car and my first night’s accommodation at Dana Nature Reserve off the scenic King’s Highway. When I was shown to my rented Nissan Sunny I was surprised to find it blanketed in snow. A window seat on the plane on the way over would have been really beneficial.

 

“Is this normal in the Middle East?" I asked the rental car attendant. He looked at me as if I had been living under a rock. “Storm Alexa," he said.

 

Anyone who has travelled for an extended period of time will appreciate that you tend to lose track of current affairs when you are gallivanting around the globe.  Alexa, I later found out, had been all over the news for the past three days.

 

It had brought snow to cities like Cairo for the first time in over 100 years. I had no idea about this storm that had wreaked havoc across numerous countries, and ignorance was definitely not bliss.

 

The attendant assured me that, Inshallah (God willing) I’d be fine provided I take it very slowly and go easy on the brakes. With that, I recalled one of my favourite sayings ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’, took a few deep breaths and started the car. It was about 1 pm.

 

Things were going well as I drove down the Desert Highway. I had mastered driving on the right-hand side of the road, learnt to negotiate the trucks, and also to predict the movement of other vehicles as nobody seemed to utilise their indicators.

 

But it was on climbing to higher elevation from the Desert Highway to the King’s Highway where I began to strike problems. The snow was building up on the road and I quickly realised Jordanians were just as inexperienced as Australians at driving in these conditions. Several cars slammed on their brakes only to spin seriously out of control into the ditches and barriers at the side of the road.

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The driving conditions soon became harsh.

As I passed through towns, I noticed men and boys lining the narrow streets with snowballs in hand. It was all such a novelty to them. Unfortunately, when they saw a western woman behind the wheel they got even more excited and started running after the car launching snowballs as they went. Luckily the windows withstood the barrage.

 

After almost three hours of terrifyingly close calls and near misses, I finally made it to the turn-off to my accommodation, where the road spiralled steeply downhill. Not too many corners into my descent I noticed a man running towards me waving his hands. Not another snowball!

 

I stopped and tried to grasp what he was saying. Not having much luck, he signalled for me to get out of my car and follow him to a larger group of men who I hoped spoke English. No sooner had I put both my ballet flats on the ground than I slipped and fell straight on my backside. I understood immediately what they were trying to tell me: black ice. It turns out I was only metres away from sliding straight off a cliff.

 

The men told me that the road was too dangerous to negotiate and that I would need to continue on to Petra. It was now 4:30 pm and I knew the sun would set at about 5:30 pm. Petra was at least another hour’s driving time so there was no time to stop and chat about my inappropriate footwear and lack of layers. I needed to push on.

 

My mouth was dry and my head was aching when I finally arrived in Petra and chose a random hotel in which to stay the night. It took all my strength not to burst into tears when the handsome concierge asked me if I was all right. I told him about my journey from the airport.

 

“You drive here," he asked, “alone?" He told me that I was worth a thousand men and a thousand women for arriving safely. It was a compliment but it just confirmed what I already suspected, that I was lucky I had made it there at all.

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The Ancient City of Petra, Jordan.

Luckily Petra did make up for the drive, but all roads to Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea were deemed too dangerous to attempt so I decided to return to Dubai early, back up the dreaded highway.

 

Obviously I made it back in one piece but I hope that my dear mother doesn’t read this because she knows a rather different version of events; one that involves me being on a tour bus having a great time.

 

Sometimes with mothers, it’s absolutely essential to decide what information is necessary and what isn’t. The same goes for weather reports and news headlines of freakish once-in-a-century storms: they, too, are absolutely essential.

 

The Middle East is full of epic adventures and sites that are waiting to be discovered. Pack your backs and head to our ultimate Middle Eastern travel guide.

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BREAKING: Australia lowers travel warning for Middle Eastern countries

In big news, the Australian government has officially changed its travel advice for five Middle Eastern countries from ‘do not travel’ (Level 4) to ‘reconsider your need to travel’ (Level 3). Here’s what it means for travellers.

Australia has downgraded its travel advice for five Middle Eastern countries, including Bahrain, Israel, Kuwait, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates. However, some areas within Israel remain a ‘do not travel status’.

The announcement comes ahead of the USA and Iran’s formal signing of a peace deal on Friday, and is expected to have a significant positive impact on travellers’ confidence.

In a joint media release published this morning, Minister for Foreign Affairs Penny Wong and Assistant Foreign Affairs Minister Matt Thistlethwaite said that, while the security situation in the Middle East could rapidly change or decline, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) has assessed the conditions and judged it appropriate to change Bahrain, Israel, Kuwait, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates to a Level 3 or ‘reconsider your need to travel’.

What does this mean for travellers?

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The announcement comes ahead of the formal signing of a peace deal between the USA and Iran. (Credit: Unsplash/Kit Formerley Convertkit)

With Level 4 locations highly unlikely to be covered by travel insurers, travellers from Australia can now travel through and to the Arabian Peninsula with travel insurance protection. The change clears a major hurdle for Australians transiting through the Middle East to reach the United Kingdom, Europe, India and Africa. These travellers will no longer face some of the complications that the Level 4 warning created for transit travel, particularly those related to insurance.

As a result, we may soon be seeing a surge in travellers finally setting off on the trips they have been postponing as a result of the Middle East conflict.

There could also be some welcome relief for travellers’ wallets. Middle Eastern carriers such as Qatar Airways and Emirates account for a significant share of Australia–Europe/UK flight capacity, and when concerns about regional conflict prompted many travellers to avoid Gulf transit hubs, demand shifted to alternative routes via Singapore, Bangkok and other Asian cities. This meant prices for flights transiting through Asia increased. As confidence in those Middle Eastern connections returns, increased competition between airlines could help keep a lid on airfares – particularly on popular Europe-bound routes.

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The change in travel advice could see a surge in travellers’ confidence. (Credit: Unsplash/Rocker Sta)

Smartraveller states that Level 3 or ‘reconsider your need to travel’ means avoiding or postponing non-essential travel, and taking extra precautions to protect yourself against security and health risks. These destinations are still classed as unstable, with DFAT warning that circumstances can shift abruptly.

The government urges travellers to obtain travel insurance and ensure they have carefully read the product conditions so they understand what is and isn’t covered. Not all travel insurance policies may cover Level 3 locations.

DFAT continues to advise ‘do not travel’ to Iran, Iraq, Lebanon, Palestine, Syria and Yemen, and ‘reconsider your need to travel’ to Jordan, Oman and Saudi Arabia. The body will continue to monitor the conditions closely and keep all Smartraveller advisories under review.

Pushing through a desert storm in Jordan - International Traveller