hero media

Pushing through a desert storm in Jordan

International Traveller
When one of our readers travelled to Jordan she expected to be met with sand and heat. What she got was snow and cold…

I love adventure. I love a challenge. I love being thrown out of my comfort zone. At least I thought I did until my all-too-brief trip during a storm in Jordan in December.

 

I had arrived in Dubai having spent two weeks in Kathmandu and made the impetuous, last-minute decision to jump on a flight to Jordan the very next morning. I did contemplate Yemen (Google ‘Socotra’ and you’ll see why) but I didn’t want my parents to cut me out of their will. A country bordered by Syria, Iraq, Israel and Saudi Arabia was clearly the safer option!

 

Spontaneous adventure is great but I usually like to arrive at a destination well researched and fully prepared. But with only hours between booking my seat and arriving at the airport, something had to give. Besides, I knew the basics: Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, and non-Gulf Arabs. I’d be fine.

 

Something seemed amiss, however, when I boarded the plane in a T-shirt and noticed everyone else was carrying heavy coats, beanies and scarves. Did they know something that I didn’t? Of course they did.

 

Upon landing at Queen Alia International Airport the pilot announced that it was -1ºC outside. I was spectacularly unprepared in terms of clothing.

 

Prior to leaving Dubai, I had decided to book a rental car and my first night’s accommodation at Dana Nature Reserve off the scenic King’s Highway. When I was shown to my rented Nissan Sunny I was surprised to find it blanketed in snow. A window seat on the plane on the way over would have been really beneficial.

 

“Is this normal in the Middle East?" I asked the rental car attendant. He looked at me as if I had been living under a rock. “Storm Alexa," he said.

 

Anyone who has travelled for an extended period of time will appreciate that you tend to lose track of current affairs when you are gallivanting around the globe.  Alexa, I later found out, had been all over the news for the past three days.

 

It had brought snow to cities like Cairo for the first time in over 100 years. I had no idea about this storm that had wreaked havoc across numerous countries, and ignorance was definitely not bliss.

 

The attendant assured me that, Inshallah (God willing) I’d be fine provided I take it very slowly and go easy on the brakes. With that, I recalled one of my favourite sayings ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’, took a few deep breaths and started the car. It was about 1 pm.

 

Things were going well as I drove down the Desert Highway. I had mastered driving on the right-hand side of the road, learnt to negotiate the trucks, and also to predict the movement of other vehicles as nobody seemed to utilise their indicators.

 

But it was on climbing to higher elevation from the Desert Highway to the King’s Highway where I began to strike problems. The snow was building up on the road and I quickly realised Jordanians were just as inexperienced as Australians at driving in these conditions. Several cars slammed on their brakes only to spin seriously out of control into the ditches and barriers at the side of the road.

storm in jordan
The driving conditions soon became harsh.

As I passed through towns, I noticed men and boys lining the narrow streets with snowballs in hand. It was all such a novelty to them. Unfortunately, when they saw a western woman behind the wheel they got even more excited and started running after the car launching snowballs as they went. Luckily the windows withstood the barrage.

 

After almost three hours of terrifyingly close calls and near misses, I finally made it to the turn-off to my accommodation, where the road spiralled steeply downhill. Not too many corners into my descent I noticed a man running towards me waving his hands. Not another snowball!

 

I stopped and tried to grasp what he was saying. Not having much luck, he signalled for me to get out of my car and follow him to a larger group of men who I hoped spoke English. No sooner had I put both my ballet flats on the ground than I slipped and fell straight on my backside. I understood immediately what they were trying to tell me: black ice. It turns out I was only metres away from sliding straight off a cliff.

 

The men told me that the road was too dangerous to negotiate and that I would need to continue on to Petra. It was now 4:30 pm and I knew the sun would set at about 5:30 pm. Petra was at least another hour’s driving time so there was no time to stop and chat about my inappropriate footwear and lack of layers. I needed to push on.

 

My mouth was dry and my head was aching when I finally arrived in Petra and chose a random hotel in which to stay the night. It took all my strength not to burst into tears when the handsome concierge asked me if I was all right. I told him about my journey from the airport.

 

“You drive here," he asked, “alone?" He told me that I was worth a thousand men and a thousand women for arriving safely. It was a compliment but it just confirmed what I already suspected, that I was lucky I had made it there at all.

Petra storm in jordan
The Ancient City of Petra, Jordan.

Luckily Petra did make up for the drive, but all roads to Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea were deemed too dangerous to attempt so I decided to return to Dubai early, back up the dreaded highway.

 

Obviously I made it back in one piece but I hope that my dear mother doesn’t read this because she knows a rather different version of events; one that involves me being on a tour bus having a great time.

 

Sometimes with mothers, it’s absolutely essential to decide what information is necessary and what isn’t. The same goes for weather reports and news headlines of freakish once-in-a-century storms: they, too, are absolutely essential.

 

The Middle East is full of epic adventures and sites that are waiting to be discovered. Pack your backs and head to our ultimate Middle Eastern travel guide.

Want to see more stories from International Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set International Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "International Traveller". That's it.
hero media

5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.