Undiscovered Rock-Hewn Temples In AlUla, Saudi Arabia

The rock-hewn temples of Hegra and Dadan are the handiwork of the ancient civilisation that built Petra. Here’s why now is the time to visit AlUla.

With major historical sites such as Machu Picchu and the Pyramids of Giza so ingrained in popular culture, it’s common to feel a sense of déjà vu when we finally see them with our own eyes. It’s a very different feeling visiting AlUla.

While travellers familiar with Jordan’s Petra will recognise the rock-hewn temples of Hegra as the handiwork of the ancient Arabic Nabataean civilisation, the mind boggles as to how the wealth of geological and archaeological riches of this remote corner of north-western Saudi Arabia went virtually unknown to the outside world for more than 2000 years. When Saudi Arabia first opened to international tourists in 2019, the ancient oasis city of AlUla quickly emerged as its showpiece attraction.

Unearthing AlUla’s ancient landscape

Sculpted by millions of years of erosion, the region’s otherworldly landscape is worth the trip in itself, with immense boulders shaped like giant elephants and basaltic lava flows oozing from ancient volcanoes.

Even more intriguing are the layers of history threaded through this ancient landscape that archaeologists are only just beginning to unravel. In a nation known for ambitious mega projects, AlUla could have been transformed into an archaeological Disneyworld with the US$15 billion earmarked for its development as a luxury tourism destination.

the swimming pool in Habitas AlUla, Saudi Arabia — Habitas AlUla is a luxe oasis in the desert. (Image: Sarah Reid)

To my relief, the tourism infrastructure completed to date is both easy on the eye and, to an extent, the environment, with experiences led by highly trained rawi (Arabic storyteller guides) offering an accessible opportunity to connect with the Saudis behind the headlines.

While this Gulf nation remains a deeply conservative country with a troubling human rights record, it’s my view that visiting places such as AlUla and engaging with locals helps to promote the cross-cultural understanding necessary to evolve as a global society.

rock-cut temples in Hegra, AlUla, Saudi Arabia — Hegra is made up of more than 100 rock-cut temples. (Image: Tanveer Badal Photography)

Saudi’s first UNESCO site

In AlUla, the complimentary refreshment stands located at the main historic sites are the first hint that Saudi culture is, at its essence, more hospitable than many travellers might think. While always on guard as a solo female traveller, I felt safe and welcome here.

A 30-minute drive north of AlUla town, Hegra – Saudi’s first UNESCO site – is AlUla’s crown jewel. Also known as Mada’in Saleh, the southern capital of the Nabataean Kingdom may only have 111 rock-cut tombs to Petra’s 600-odd, but they’re similarly magnificent, hewn from a series of golden sandstone boulders between 1 BCE – 1 CE in contrast to those of Petra, carved from a narrow rose-coloured canyon at around the same time.

a jeep in front of rock-hewn temples of Hegra, AlUla, Saudi Arabia — The rock-hewn temples of Hegra. (Image: Sarah Reid)

Exploring Hegra

With visits restricted to guided tours by bus or Land Rover that visit only a fraction of the 52-hectare site, I leave Hegra feeling somewhat short-changed. Nonetheless, the tour stops provide a fascinating glimpse into this remarkable lost city. And Hegra isn’t AlUla’s only ancient city. Before the Nabataeans arrived, the picturesque valley south of Hegra was home to Dadan, which served as the capital of two other ancient Arab kingdoms, Dadan (9th–8th century BCE) and Lihyan (5th–2nd century BCE).

With excavations still in their infancy, the current highlight of Dadan is its string of tombs chiselled into the cliffs. Look for the skilfully crafted funerary monuments, including the seated lion sculptures that may have marked a royal burial. On the opposite side of the valley is Jabal Ikmah, another remnant from the Dadanite era inscribed on the UNESCO Memory of the World register in 2023 for its rock carvings chronicling the evolution of Old Arabic languages.

“Welcome to my library," says rawi Amal Aljohani as she guides us into a canyon featuring more than 300-odd inscriptions depicting everything from daily life in the region to animals that once roamed these lands. The significance of this astonishingly well-preserved time capsule is not lost on our awestruck group as Amal interprets some of the ancient text and images.

riding a camel along the rugged landscape of Hegra, AlUla, Saudi Arabia — Take a camel ride across AlUla.

Traversing the AlUla Old Town

Nestling between these two sites is AlUla Old Town, which emerged in the 12th century as the valley became part of the historic incense trading route. Exploring its labyrinth of alleys on a guided tour, it’s hard to believe its last residents didn’t move out of the eroded mudbrick and stone buildings until the 1980s.

Astride AlUla Old Town (two kilometres north of the modern town of AlUla) lies the oasis – the ancient agricultural heartland of AlUla still used today. Guided tours along the three-kilometre Heritage Oasis Trail are available, but it’s worth seizing the rare opportunity to explore one of AlUla’s ancient wonders independently on a self-guided meander between plots of fragrant mint, citrus trees and date palms.

More modern cultural attractions including the mirror-walled Maraya concert hall and the AlJadidah Arts District, as well as a bevy of adventure activities from zip-lining to via ferrata (rock-climbing obstacles), tempt a longer stay in AlUla – or a repeat visit, as this surreal landscape continues to reveal more of its forgotten treasures.

the hotel interior of Habitas AlUla, Saudi Arabia — Habitas is hidden away in a sandstone canyon of the Ashar Valley. (Image: Kleinjan Groenewald)

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Getting there

The town of AlUla is a 30-minute drive north of AlUla International Airport. With taxis in short supply, it’s best to book transfers in advance. A low-carbon tramway currently in development will be a game changer for exploring the region.

Staying there

Habitas AlUla is a luxury tented resort-style hotel (with an excellent incense route-inspired restaurant, Tama), which has been sustainably constructed in a spectacular sandstone canyon in the Ashar Valley near Hegra. The recently opened Banyan Tree Alula, in the Ashar Valley, also welcomes non-guests at its two restaurants.

the dining interior at Tama Restaurant in Habitas AlUla — Dine at Tama Restaurant in Habitas AlUla. (Image: Tanveer Badal Photograph)

Eating there

AlUla has a good range of contemporary dining options, including an international restaurant somewhere, a short walk from AlUla Old Town. The Heart of OasiS, in the dappled shade of date palms, offers an atmospheric farm-to-fork dining experience.

Middle Eastern cuisine at Tama Restaurant — Tama infuses Middle Eastern cuisine with global flavours. (Image: Kleinjan Groenewald)

Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

1. Easy access to good food

meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 — Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

2. Better sleep options

Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room — Sleep deeply with Novotel.

There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

3. More ways to move

woman hiking around queenstown new zealand — Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

4. Better connections

Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

5. Location is everything

Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld — Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

Undiscovered rock-hewn temples to visit in AlUla, Saudi Arabia