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Under-the-radar spots in Albania

A Mediterranean holiday full of flavoursome food, wonderful wine and Riviera views – but make it unique, uncrowded and inexpensive. It might sound like a tall order, but not if you set your sights on Albania.

With Greece to its south, Montenegro to its north and Italy just across the pond, Albania is a culinary and cultural crossroads where Mediterranean freshness meets Balkan heartiness. Like nearby Italy, Spain and southern France, the country experiences mild winters and hot, dry summers, ideal for grape-ripening. The vineyards smattered along its coast experience similar conditions to those in Portugal’s Douro Valley, while its mountainous grape-growing regions have been likened to Italy’s Piedmont or France’s Rhône Valley.

If the food and wine aren’t enough to get you booking a trip, Albania has almost 500 kilometres of dramatic riviera, speckled with beach bars, seafood restaurants and crystal-clear coves to splash around in. So how has a destination that offers so much managed to quietly coast under the radar for so long?

A brief history

Up until the mid-1980s, Albania spent almost 50 years under the strict communist leadership of Enver Hoxha. Albanians were forbidden to travel, nothing was imported and taxpayer funds were pumped into building thousands of underground bunkers for an invasion the ever-paranoid Hoxha was certain would come – but never did.

beach signs in Durres
Bars and seafood restaurants are found along the beach. (Image: Olga Pro)

Cut to the late ’80s, and a new Albanian president was in power, forging trade ties with Western Europe, allowing Albanians to journey abroad, and – importantly for curious travellers – opening Albania up to the rest of the world. Independent political parties were formed after the collapse of communist rule in Eastern Europe, before the Democratic Party was voted into power in 1992. However, Albania’s freshly minted democratic system was young, fragile and led by inexperienced staff. These conditions made it all too easy for opportunistic criminal networks to emerge and thrive, creating the perception that Albania was a hotbed for mafia activity.

But Albania stepped up to create a safer environment for its people and visitors. It established an anti-corruption and organised crime investigatory body and joined the United Nations Convention Against Transnational Organised Crime. Today, visiting Albania requires no extra vigilance than travelling to any other European country. And its eventful past provides a thrilling experience for history buffs. This – along with its culture, cuisine and remarkable riviera – makes for an unforgettable experience.

the villages in the Albanian Riviera
Albanian villages are built into the craggy coast. (Image: Abenteuer Albanien)

Tiranë

At first glimpse, the lively capital of Tiranë (or Tirana) seems like any other modern city in Europe – well-heeled professionals crossing the leafy Shëtitorja Murat Toptani Bulevardi, locals meeting for espresso in hip cafes and students congregating in sprawling plazas and parks. But then you turn a corner and see half a dozen torn-down communist statues being stored behind a building, or walk past a decrepit bunker that’s been transformed into a trendy bar, and you realise there is much more to this city than meets the eye.

the Pyramid of Tirana in Blloku
The Pyramid of Tirana in Blloku is a symbol of the city. (Image: Ossip Van Duivenbode)

The hip neighbourhood of Blloku – once restricted to only the communist elite – is peppered with chic cocktail lounges, coffee spots and restaurants (with prices so affordable you’ll do a double take at your bill).

Blloku is also where you’ll find the Pyramid of Tirana, a symbol of the city and a popular spot for locals and tourists.

a closer look at the Pyramid of Tirana in Blloku
The said pyramid was dedicated to the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. (Image: Ossip Van Duivenbode)

Right behind the Pyramid is Komiteti Kafe Muzeum, a quirky cafe meets museum with decor inspired by the communist era – the furniture, the walls and even the toilet. It serves almost 20 different types of Albanian raki liqueur, as well as karamele zana – a regional candy popular in Albania during its communist era.

the Komiteti Kafe Muzeum in Tirana
Pop by the quirky Komiteti Kafe Muzeum in Tirana. (Image: imageBROKER.com GmbH & Co. KG)

Another not-to-be-missed museum experience is Bunk’Art2, an ode to Albania’s history inside a preserved communist-era nuclear bunker. Bunk’Art2 is the offshoot to the hugely successful Bunk’Art1. While the latter is on the outskirts of the city, Bunk’Art2 is in the heart of Tirana.

the Bunk’Art2 museum in Albania
Bunk’Art2 is a museum housed inside a communist-era nuclear bunker. (Image: ImageBroker/Alamy)

Not far is Skanderbeg Square, Tirana’s main plaza, which provides a fascinating glimpse into Albania’s mottled past. In the early 2000s, the Albanian government began erecting structures in vibrant hues of pink, orange and yellow to sit starkly alongside the old grey communist high-rises; it’s quite a sight to behold.

the National Historical Museum in central Skanderbeg Square, Tirana
Locals and visitors relax in Skanderbeg Square in central Tirana. (Image: Peter Eastland/Alamy)

Berat

Albania’s second-biggest city Berat is about a two-hour drive from Tirana and is a compact place explorable within one or two days. The city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you’ll immediately understand why upon arrival.

hillside houses in Berat City
Berat is often called ‘The City of a Thousand Windows’ for its many houses that cling to the hillside. (Image: LatitudeStock/Alamy)

The elegant stone and alabaster city is fringed with verdant fig trees and earned its moniker, The City of a Thousand Windows, due to the dazzling view of old Ottoman houses that cascade down both sides of its gentle river valley.

a man riding a horse at the gate to the Citadel of Berat
Stroll through the stone streets to the 13th-century Citadel of Berat. (Image: Peter Eastland/Alamy)

The 13th-century Berat Castle built at the top of a hill is a sprawling community of complex stone streets and houses. Many families still reside inside the castle walls, with some homes converted into guesthouses, restaurants or shops.

the fortress ruins of the Berat Castle
These crumbling fortress walls are what’s left of Berat Castle. (Image: Sarah Crake/Alamy)

It’s not unusual to see locals herding sheep, kids kicking a ball down the stone alleyways or women selling lace and embroidery outside their homes as you make your way up to the Berat Viewing Platform that looks out over the city.

colourful ottoman style rugs outside a souvenir shop in Berat, Albania
Find these colourful Albanian rugs at souvenir shops in Berat. (Image: Brittany Olson via Getty Images)

Stroll along Bulevardi Republika, a vast car-free street lined with cafes on one side and a park that serves as a buffer between pedestrians and the river on the other.

Cross over the Gorica Bridge to take in the view of the endless windows that Berat is famous for. Local restaurant Antigoni offers outdoor dining that provides a breathtaking vantage point.

the Gorica Bridge in Berat, Albania
The Ottoman-era city is UNESCO World Heritage-listed. (Image: Gert Olsson/Alamy)

The Riviera

Upon catching your first glimpse of Albania’s striking riviera, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re on the coast of France or Italy. Yachts and fishing boats bob along the glimmering turquoise water. Beach bars and seafood restaurants pepper the endless white sand. And dramatic hills covered in olive groves tower overhead and into the distance.

the Gjipe Beach in Albania
The Albanian Riviera is an unexpected and delightful alternative to Mediterranean hotspots. (Image: Peter Schickert/Alamy)

However, unlike its other European counterparts, the Albanian Riviera is uncrowded, inexpensive and far more laid-back. In fact, come closing time for the beachfront restaurants, it’s not uncommon for staff to bring out a pot of surplus seafood risotto and offer it to late-night beachgoers who may be in need of a snack.

the beachside capital of Albania at Plazhi Ksamilit
Plazhi Ksamilit is the country’s unofficial beachside capital.

Plazhi Ksamilit, the unofficial beachside capital of the Albanian Riviera, lies in the south near the Greek border. It has a small bay with three tiny islands that are an easy swim or boat ride away, and offers plenty of accommodation and beachfront dining – Guvat Bar & Restaurant is worth a visit.

an aerial view of beach umbrellas clustered at Ksamil
Umbrellas are clustered on the sand at Ksamil. (Image: Hugh Mitton/Alamy)

You’ll find endless coastal towns with their own jaw-dropping beaches and bays heading further north, where standouts include the beaches of Livadhi, Drymades and Jale. Restaurant Kapiteni in Jale is an unforgettable spot for dinner and a drink or a stay at its luxe hotel.

an aerial view of Prinos Beach in Himarë, Albania
Albania’s coast is lapped by turquoise sea. (Image: Thomas Faull via Getty Images)

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Food and wine

Mrizi i Zanave

A car in Albania really is essential, because the famous Mrizi i Zanave, a restaurant, farm, winery and resort nestled in the Albanian countryside, is 90 minutes north of Tirana. The agritourism venture in the hills of Fishtë has made quite a name for itself with its farm-to-table cuisine and the fact it’s managed to achieve an ambience that is both unpretentious and opulent. Expect a gaggle of geese to greet you when you arrive at the rustic stone building before you’re taken inside for your six-course degustation.

the top view of the guesthouse at Mrizi i Zanave
The guesthouse at Mrizi i Zanave is within a heritage stone building.

Each dish served at the restaurant is emblematic of the global Slow Food movement and a contemporary take on traditional Albanian cuisine, known for being a unique amalgamation of Mediterranean and Balkan flavours. It’s a cuisine that celebrates the country’s geographical diversity, with dishes that echo the freshness of the coast as well as the heartiness of the hillside. Expect vibrant seafood dishes like Albanian artisanal pasta tossed with prawns, cherry tomatoes and parsley from the farm, to hearty and traditional tavë dheu – a slow-cooked dish of veal, local vegetables and ricotta. Hospitality is deeply ingrained in Albanian culture, and serving food is an integral part of hosting guests and visitors. So, when you dive into your meal, you’re not just tasting food, you’re experiencing Albania’s generosity, warmth and shared sense of community.

the guesthouse interior of Mrizi i Zanave restaurant
Mrizi i Zanave is a farm-to-table restaurant with a guesthouse.

Kantina Kallmeti

Not far from Mrizi is Kantina Kallmeti, one of Albania’s standout wineries. It has gained international recognition for its cultivation of the kallmet grape, an Albanian varietal known for its ability to produce spectacular red wine.

Çobo Winery

Çobo Winery, a family-run estate 20 minutes from Berat, is considered one of the best wineries in the country. It has been making wine for about a century and offers visitors intimate and detailed tastings in its homey cellar door.

Nurellari Winery

Nurellari Winery is another family-run affair just a 25-minute drive south of Berat.

the ush vineyards at Nurellari Winery
Be surrounded by lush vineyards at Nurellari Winery.

While its cellar door is stately and sumptuous, the service is personal, warm and friendly. Don’t be surprised if, after your tasting, Mama Nurellari asks you to stay for dinner.

the exterior of Nurellari Winery
Sample wines at the family-run Nurellari Winery.

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.