Isles of Scilly: A tropical paradise in Britain?

No wonder the Brits have kept it quiet, the Isles of Scilly have the weather the Brits so sorely seek.

A short hop from the British mainland takes you to another world. An island archipelago where doors remain unlocked, cars are few and exotic flora thrives in the balmy climate. Although just 45 kilometres from the south-west tip of Cornwall, the isolation of the Isles of Scilly has been just enough to keep the islands remarkably unspoiled.

Most Brits know of the Isles of Scilly, the name being synonymous with a mild climate and the flower farming industry.

Despite this, surprisingly few have visited, but those making the effort return time and time again. The attraction soon becomes apparent as the Scillonian psyche is quite different to many parts of England.

The locals are easy-going, friendly and there’s an air of honesty and trust about the place. With pretty scenes at almost every turn and a sleepy atmosphere from another time, this is a great place to unwind for a few days.

Scilly’s westerly location means the isles bask in the warming winds of the Gulf Stream. Combined with the southerly latitude and the surrounding ocean, the Scillonian climate is free from extremes, with frost and snow being rare.

Consequently, all manner of plants thrive here. Some of these will be familiar to Australians, such as Cabbage Trees and Palms, but when combined with the quaint English cottages, narrow lanes and dry-stone walls, the resulting surroundings appear striking and unusual.

It is possible to take a day trip to Scilly, but a stay of several days is recommended to absorb the very different vibe of each island. Visitors arrive at the mini capital of Hugh Town on the most populated island of St Mary’s. This is the only island with any notable volume of motor vehicles; the off-islands have few cars and perhaps the odd tractor.

All five inhabited islands offer food and accommodation, but it may make sense to base yourself on St Mary’s.

Those seeking the ultimate escape may find their nirvana at one of the off-islands, especially after the day-trippers leave. However, from St Mary’s, island hopping is easy. Water taxis are available year-round, or from April to October, most visitors use the services of the St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association.

The launches are lovingly maintained, colourful and full of character, and your island of choice is reached in just 30 minutes or so. A word of warning though – the boats tend to be uncovered, so wear waterproofs if there is a swell!

Of course, the ocean dominates life here. The most popular sport is not soccer but Pilot Gig Racing – a form of rowing and a Cornish tradition. Historically the race was to get the pilot out to incoming vessels first and hence landing the job of guiding them to harbour.

Each week teams from the isles battle it out across choppy seas, and watching the race on a Wednesday or Friday evening throughout summer is quite an experience.

St Mary’s

The largest of the isles offers plenty to keep visitors entertained for several days, and packs a great deal of variety into 6.3 square-kilometres.

Expect to see farmland, flower fields, spectacular granite coast interspersed with sandy beaches, and picturesque villages. Life centres around Hugh Town, which sits on an isthmus between two pleasant bays, Town Beach and Porthcressa.

Isles of Scilly St Mary's — Fishing and sailing boats at St Mary’s.

St Mary’s is rich in historical sights; amongst the most impressive is The Garrison Walls. Complete with bastions and canons, the walls are perched on a headland adjacent to the town and date back to 1588.

An equally remarkable sight is found at Penninis Head at the southern tip of St Mary’s. Here you’re faced with spectacular walls of granite plunging into the ocean, along with unusual rock formations caused by weathering. A little further along the coast is lovely Old Town, with its smattering of cottages, pub and cafés gathered around a peaceful bay.

On most islands you can see prehistoric entrance graves or burial chambers, some from Neolithic times – so we’re talking a mind-boggling 4000 or 6000 years ago.

St Mary’s has some of the finest examples, check out Bant’s Carn Burial Chamber and neighbouring Halangy Down Ancient Village, dating back to Bronze and Iron Ages. Probably the best-preserved examples though are the Innisidgen Graves at the north of the island.

Wandering the interior of St Mary’s is a delight. Locals sell their products via roadside stalls and honesty boxes.

Villages lead to lush nature trails and hedgerows support a display of flowers and succulents – a strange mix of native and exotics, escapees from gardens and cultivations, which really shouldn’t survive the English winter.

Although the isles rely on income from tourism these days, a few flower farms persevere on the isles and swathes of daffodils and amaryllis provide a magnificent splash of colour in season.

Bryher

Bryher is tiny but wildly beautiful. The west coast is one of the first significant pieces of land between England and Canada and often receives fierce swell crashing onto the coast.

The aptly named Hell Bay at the north-west side of the isle is a spectacular scene in stormy weather.

The south and east of Bryher are much more gentle with sheltered sandy beaches, notably Rushy Bay and Green Bay.

After lounging around on the sand, walk up Samson Hill or Watch Hill for some of the best views in the isles, across the lagoon towards the neighbouring isle of Tresco.

St Martin’s

If Bryher is the untamed isle, St Martin’s is the tranquil island paradise. Sheltered by Bryher and Tresco to the west, the coast here is quite stunning and many visitors leave the isles with St Martin’s as their favourite.

In the sunshine, the white sandy beaches, aquamarine hues of the ocean and exotic plants make St Martin’s look like a subtropical idyll. Meandering along the narrow road takes you through three villages, imaginatively named Higher, Middle and Lower Town.

A short climb up Cruther’s Hill near Higher Town gives a panoramic view of the coastline.

You will also pass a small vineyard (tours available) and numerous miniature flower fields, with oversized hedges to shelter the delicate crop.

Even the wildlife is friendly here; you may be joined by wild birds that feed on your hand.

Tresco

It’s just a stone’s throw from rugged Bryher, yet the isle of Tresco exudes a very different ambience.

Parts of Tresco feel more fabricated for tourism than the other isles, with order and tidiness not seen elsewhere. However, go hiking off the beaten track and you will find a wilder side to the island.

On approach to Tresco, the first thing to grab your attention is the presence of trees, which is something lacking in other parts of the isles.

Nestled amongst these trees is Tresco Abbey Gardens– a true gem of the isles. The clever landscaping by Augustus Smith, in the early 1800s, works in harmony with the local climate to dramatic effect. Specimens from around the world mingle to form a riot of colour in this sheltered sun-trap.

The heather at the north end turns the landscape purple in late summer. In early spring the bright yellow gorse forms a stunning colour clash against the Atlantic blues and greens.

The 17th-century Cromwell’s Castle on this colourful stretch of coast resides in a wonderful position, along with the remains of King Charles’ Castle further up the hill behind.

The beaches in the south and east of Tresco are stunning and rival those of St Martins.AppletreeBayand much of the east coast comprise white sand and turquoise ocean.

St Agnes

Far-flung St Agnes is out on a limb in the south-west of the archipelago, a picturesque isle of geological wonders, historical sights and peaceful coves.

St Agnes is very small and, in keeping with this, everything seems so dainty from the diminutive road to the distinctive 17th-century lighthouse and church. The title for Scilly’s most endearing names must also be awarded to St Agnes.

Who can resist visiting the likes of Barnaby Lane, Wingletang Down, Beady Pool and Troy Town Maze?

The latter is an unusual spiral of rock made in the late 1700s, but it’s thought this is based on an original from much earlier times.

A couple of delightful beaches are found a short walk north from Troy Town, and to the east are more bizarre granite shapes. On the east coast is the Beady Pool bay; a ship went down offshore in the 17th century with a cargo of beads – sometimes these are still washed ashore.

After some serious beachcombing, head for Cove Vean, an almost perfect fern-lined arc of crystalline water and a great spot to sit and unwind.

Uninhabited Islands

Another 140 or so uninhabited islands and named rocks make up the Scilly archipelago, some of which can be visited.

Samson is one such example where you can live out your Robinson Crusoe dreams, for a few hours at least, relaxing on the gorgeous white sand beach.

Samson was inhabited until relatively recently, but the last islanders were forced to abandon their homes in 1855 due to a lack of natural resources and eventually deprivation. Wandering amongst the abandoned house remains is quite a humbling experience. This island is a must for historians with a number of prehistoric entrance graves to explore.

The Western Rocks are some of the most notoriously dangerous waters in the British Isles. The Scilly Boatmen (safely) offer circular tours of the area.

There are seals and seabirds abound, including puffins. Bishop Rock is officially the world’s smallest island holding a building – probably the most exposed lighthouse in Britain, and the very last little piece of England.

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The Details

How to get there

Emirates flies daily to London from Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth or Sydney via Dubai. From Gatwick connect to Newquay with Flybe which run two to three flights a day, then make the final hop to Scilly with Skybus who run up to six flights a day in high season. If you plan on visiting the mainland before departing for Scilly, the options are more numerous. The Scillonian III ferry departs Penzance daily, except Sunday. For both Skybus and Scillonian bookings, head here.

When to go

April to September ensures easy island hopping and the best weather. Early May sells out quickly, as it’s when the isles host the World Pilot Gig Championships. A visit in winter means very few tourists, but your plans may need to be flexible.

Where to Stay

COMFORTABLE

The Wheelhouse, St Mary’s is a quality bed and breakfast in an enviable location on Porthcressa Beach.

LUXURY

The Star Castle Hotel, St Marys offers accommodation in the 16th-century castle or a modern suite. Golf, tennis and an indoor pool are available.

Sea Garden Cottages, Tresco has contemporary chic accommodation right by the bay. Some of the facilities on offer include tennis courts, indoor pool and sailing.

Where to eat

AFFORDABLE

The Scillonian Club, Hugh Town, St Mary’s. Hearty food and real ale at an affordable price.

Adam’s Fish and Chips, Higher Town, St Martin’s. The fish is landed on St Martin’s and the potatoes are grown on the farm here too.

MID RANGE

Old Town Inn, St Mary’s. Traditional pub with real ales. Sunday roasts are always popular.

Kavorna, Hugh Town, St Mary’s. Right in the centre of town, Kavorna is a reliable choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

The Turks Head, St Agnes. The only pub on the island, and the most south-westerly in Britain. Sit outside to admire the vibrant shades of blue in the bay below.

HIGH END

Juliet’s Garden Restaurant is located atPorthlooBeach, a pleasant stroll from Hugh Town, and serves up wonderful food and a location to match. julietsgardenrestaurant.co.uk

You can’t leave without

Strolling on the fabulous white sand beaches – all the islands have them but St Martin’s deserves a special mention

Visiting the Tresco Abbey Gardens

Wandering amongst the impressive coast of granite at Peninnis Head, St Mary’s

The best thing about The Isles of Scilly

This is England from a bygone era, there’s nowhere else like it.

The worst thing about The Isles of Scilly

Despite one of the best sunshine records in the country, it definitely still rains, so head for the shops, galleries, museum, café or pub!

England is a land of fabulous highlands, city views, historic towns and so much more. Head here to get your England fix with our travel guide.

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK.

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius — A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris — People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.