Lucerne, Switzerland; Essential city guide

With a tranquil riverside setting (complete with gliding white swans), an evocative old town and a joyful, buzzy vibe, this is one of Leigh-Ann Pow’s favourite cities. It will soon become one of yours with her essential Lucerne city guide.

Known for

Chapel bridge, Lakeside living, and its compelling history.

Eat streets

Brasserie Bodu has lashings of atmosphere and a menu of French classics. Mill’Feuille is one of the best breakfast/brunch spots in the city, with a riverside setting.

Out & about

You absolutely cannot leave Lucerne without having seen the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge); in fact, it is impossible to miss it given its prominent position snaking across the River Ruess, its planter boxes of blooms clinging to its sides and the ethereal white swans gliding underneath.

Also check out the Spreuerbrücke a short walk down the river, with its Dance of Death paintings in its eaves.

Architectural wonders in Lucerne don’t only date back to medieval times: the modern edifice of the KKL Luzern is a masterwork by the French Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, sitting on the shores of Lake Lucerne.

If you don’t venture inside its convention halls, concert hall and art museum, at least linger outside to soak up the atmosphere.

Museum Sammlung Rosengart, located in the New Town on Pilatustrasse, is filled with artworks by the likes of Cézanne, Monet, Chagall, Braque, Kandinsky, Léger, Matisse, and Miró.

They are all part of the private collection of father and daughter Siegfried and Angela Rosengart, which the latter donated to the city.

The real crowd-pleasers here are the works by Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso, both of whom the Rosengarts knew personally. The Picasso collection includes portraits the artist painted of Angela herself.

Insider’s secret

A sundrenched beach isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of a medieval city like Lucerne, but it has an extremely nice one.

The lakeside lido at Lucerne Nationalquai allows visitors to take a dip or loll about on in the summer sun.

There’s even an historic angle: while it looks like a giant wooden box, inside its Belle-Époque charms are instantly evident.

Retail reconnaissance

Of course there are myriad high-street stores to peruse in Lucerne, but for a glimpse into how the locals live, you absolutely can’t miss the regular markets that fill the city with colour and action come the weekend.

Straddling both sides of the river, the majority of the stalls are dedicated to food, with bread being baked fresh in giant mobile ovens, abundant fresh fruit and vegetables, cured meats, copious cheeses and lots of local specialties.

The fresh flower stalls are also glorious and if you keep wandering the stalls towards the Nadelwehr you’ll find a small flea market – the best place to grab a really unique souvenir like a rustic old cow bell.

The ultimate experience

Founded in the 12th century, the history of Lucerne is written large in the glorious buildings of its Old Town.

The absolute best way to see this part of the city is by strolling the cobbled streets and narrow side streets, stopping often to crane your neck in order to fully take in the architecture (check out the Kornmarkt and Rathaus) and exquisite painted murals that adorn many of the buildings.

Forget taking a map, just get lost in the atmosphere and romance of it all.

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Caffeine hits

Konditorei & Cafe Heini (Hertensteinstrasse 66) is widely accepted as the best place for cakes in the city – two dishes here are on the official list of the culinary heritage of Switzerland.

Also try the delightful Cafe Mardi Gras.

Stay & play

Affordable

Housed in a 700- year-old building, Stern Luzern’s bright rooms are freshly renovated.

Moderate

Hotel Ameron Flora has nicely presented rooms, a large lobby lounge/library and a funky vibe.

Luxe

The grand Palace Luzern sits on a lakeside promenade. and boasts all the five-star luxuries.

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK.

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius — A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris — People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.