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Lucerne, Switzerland; Essential city guide

International Traveller

With a tranquil riverside setting (complete with gliding white swans), an evocative old town and a joyful, buzzy vibe, this is one of Leigh-Ann Pow’s favourite cities. It will soon become one of yours with her essential Lucerne city guide.

Known for

Chapel bridge, Lakeside living, and its compelling history.

Eat streets

Brasserie Bodu has lashings of atmosphere and a menu of French classics. Mill’Feuille is one of the best breakfast/brunch spots in the city, with a riverside setting.

Out & about

You absolutely cannot leave Lucerne without having seen the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge); in fact, it is impossible to miss it given its prominent position snaking across the River Ruess, its planter boxes of blooms clinging to its sides and the ethereal white swans gliding underneath.

Also check out the Spreuerbrücke a short walk down the river, with its Dance of Death paintings in its eaves.

Architectural wonders in Lucerne don’t only date back to medieval times: the modern edifice of the KKL Luzern is a masterwork by the French Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, sitting on the shores of Lake Lucerne.

If you don’t venture inside its convention halls, concert hall and art museum, at least linger outside to soak up the atmosphere.

Museum Sammlung Rosengart, located in the New Town on Pilatustrasse, is filled with artworks by the likes of Cézanne, Monet, Chagall, Braque, Kandinsky, Léger, Matisse, and Miró.

They are all part of the private collection of father and daughter Siegfried and Angela Rosengart, which the latter donated to the city.

The real crowd-pleasers here are the works by Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso, both of whom the Rosengarts knew personally. The Picasso collection includes portraits the artist painted of Angela herself.

Insider’s secret

A sundrenched beach isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of a medieval city like Lucerne, but it has an extremely nice one.

The lakeside lido at Lucerne Nationalquai allows visitors to take a dip or loll about on in the summer sun.

There’s even an historic angle: while it looks like a giant wooden box, inside its Belle-Époque charms are instantly evident.

Retail reconnaissance

Of course there are myriad high-street stores to peruse in Lucerne, but for a glimpse into how the locals live, you absolutely can’t miss the regular markets that fill the city with colour and action come the weekend.

Straddling both sides of the river, the majority of the stalls are dedicated to food, with bread being baked fresh in giant mobile ovens, abundant fresh fruit and vegetables, cured meats, copious cheeses and lots of local specialties.

The fresh flower stalls are also glorious and if you keep wandering the stalls towards the Nadelwehr you’ll find a small flea market – the best place to grab a really unique souvenir like a rustic old cow bell.

The ultimate experience

Founded in the 12th century, the history of Lucerne is written large in the glorious buildings of its Old Town.

The absolute best way to see this part of the city is by strolling the cobbled streets and narrow side streets, stopping often to crane your neck in order to fully take in the architecture (check out the Kornmarkt and Rathaus) and exquisite painted murals that adorn many of the buildings.

Forget taking a map, just get lost in the atmosphere and romance of it all.

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Caffeine hits

Konditorei & Cafe Heini (Hertensteinstrasse 66) is widely accepted as the best place for cakes in the city – two dishes here are on the official list of the culinary heritage of Switzerland.

Also try the delightful Cafe Mardi Gras.

Stay & play

Affordable

Housed in a 700- year-old building, Stern Luzern’s bright rooms are freshly renovated.

Moderate

Hotel Ameron Flora has nicely presented rooms, a large lobby lounge/library and a funky vibe.

Luxe

The grand Palace Luzern sits on a lakeside promenade. and boasts all the five-star luxuries.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.