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10 places to go in Venice to avoid the crowds

International Traveller
In Venice, the crowds and queues are almost as famous as the gondolas. To avoid the masses, it’s wise to head to some of Venice’s lesser-known landmarks. We asked Academy Travel’s Robert Veel for the insider info.

As many as five cruise ships sail up to the dock in Venice each day, unfettering up to 20,000 fun-seeking daytrippers, with an equal number regularly arriving by bus. The itinerary is almost always the same: walk to the Rialto, browse the markets, pop over to Saint Mark’s Square and Caffè Florian, wander around the piazza, and visit the Basilica and Doge’s Palace. Local guides have gone so far as to name this well-trodden route il cammello – likening the conga line of punters making their way from site to site to the camel trains of desert travellers of old.

Crowded Venice
The busy foreshore at Piazza San Marco and Doge’s Palace.

For the more informed visitors willing to go beyond the tourist trail, it’s conceivable to unearth a different Venice – one with less sightseers and even the occasional living, breathing Venetian. Here, ten of my personal favourites.

San Giorgio Maggiore

‘Hidden in plain sight’ best describes San Giorgio. The island, dwarfed by Andrea Palladio’s church of the same name, sits directly opposite the Doge’s Palace in the heart of Venice. To get there, catch the Number 2 ferry from San Zaccaria, close to Piazza San Marco. Marvel at the multi-layered classical facade outside, and Italian painter Tintoretto’s masterful collection of artworks inside.

 

Walk the church grounds via the small yacht marina, stopping at the cafe here for some of the best views in Venice, or head to the Giorgio Cini Foundation – located in the former San Giorgio Monastery – to see one of the visiting exhibitions. You can also tour the Benedictine monastery (another Palladio design), once a sanctuary for foreign dignitaries and celebrities including Cosimo de’ Medici.

San Giorgio Island Venice
‘Hidden in plain sight’ best describes San Giorgio Island.

The only time you might see a small crowd is at the bell tower (accessed from inside the church), but it’s worth it for the views of the city, the Grand Canal, and out to the Lido and the Adriatic beyond.

San Lazzaro degli Armeni

If you want to get a sense of Venice’s connection to the Orient, there is no better place than the island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni, just west of the Lido. Catch the Number 20 ferry from San Zaccaria and join the daily morning tour, which is held to coincide with the morning ferry schedule. The tour doesn’t require a reservation, but phone (+39 041 526 0104) the day before to confirm that it’s on.

 

The island’s name reflects two parts of its history: it was first a leper colony, then a refuge for an Armenian religious community fleeing Turkish persecution in the 18th century. Many priceless treasures of Armenian civilisation, such as medieval manuscripts and historical artefacts, are still stored here.

Sant’Erasmo

For some of the freshest vegetables in Italy, head to Sant’Erasmo in the Venetian Lagoon. Like a portal into the past, Sant’Erasmo is the Venice of yesteryear, when it was nothing more than a scattered collection of fishing and farming villages. Take the Number 13 ferry from Fondamente Nove on the north side of Venice’s main islands and spend half a day here.

Sant’Erasmo Italy
Artichoke plantations at Sant’Erasmo. Photography: Didier Descouens

Giudecca Island

Serviced by the Number 2 ferry, Giudecca Island is a great place to see ordinary Venetians going about their lives. While here, visit Palladio’s impressive church of Redentore and the nearby palace, Casa dei Tre Oci (House of Three Eyes). Designed in a neo-Gothic style by Bolognese painter Mario de Maria, Tre Oci is a cultural institution, with many events and rotating art and photography exhibits held here. In the laneways off the Giudecca waterfront you’ll find a number of simple local eateries, noticeably cheaper than those in central Venice.

Redentore, Giudecca Island
Visit Palladio’s impressive church of Redentore while you’re here.

Ca’ Pesaro

Take the Number 1 ferry to the San Stae stop to visit this imposing Baroque palace, once the home of the aristocratic Pesaro family. It houses the modern-art collection of the city of Venice, with much of the collection acquired at Venice Biennales since 1896 and many prominent Italian artists’ works on display. Look up to admire 18th-century ceiling frescoes by Tiepolo and climb to the upper floor to peruse an eclectic collection of Asian art including samurai swords, ceramics, paintings, furniture and more.

Ca’ Rezzonico

Another fine Baroque palace on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Rezzonico is Venice’s museum of 18th-century art and life. A double-sized palace and two courtyards serve as reminders of the nouveau-riche Rezzonico family’s wealth at a time when Venice was in sharp decline. Enter via the grand staircase and two-storey ballroom, and enjoy room after room of Tiepolo ceilings, paintings by Rosalba Carriera and Francesco Guardi, and entertaining miniatures of everyday life by Pietro Longhi.

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I Gesuiti

It’s unclear why this architectural gem isn’t better known. An 18th-century Jesuit church, you’ll find I Gesuiti in a reasonably remote corner of the city, close to the Fondamente Nove ferry stop. The church’s sober Baroque facade gives way to a spectacular interior, with green and white marble creating a stone carpet from the entrance to the high altar. The church closes in the middle of the day, so plan to visit in the morning or after 3pm.

I Gesuiti, Venice
Inside the 18th-century Jesuit church, I Gesuiti.

Confraternity of San Giorgio Degli Schiavoni

Venice’s confraternities were an essential part of the social fabric of the city, where non-nobles and foreigners could meet, network, and seek and give charity. Looking after the sick, the injured and the widowed of their community was a big part of the confraternity’s work. The confraternity of San Giorgio is close to the Arsenale, in the district where the Esclavonian (or Croatian) community lived. The intimate confraternal hall is decorated by a celebrated series of paintings by Vittorio Carpaccio from the early 1500s, telling the story of Saint George, Saint Augustine and the little-known Saint Tryphon (another dragon-slaying saint from the East).

Confraternity of San Rocco

The 16th-century confraternity of Saint San Rocco (patron of plague sufferers) is a testament to the inflated self-worth of the ‘brothers of the bench’ – the senior members of the confraternity. Having acquired great wealth through donations and bequests, the confraternity set out to build a magnificent headquarters, with a grand facade, marble staircases and a dazzling geometric marble pavement on the upper floor. A competition was held to choose an artist to decorate the interior, leading to an easy victory for Tintoretto, who spent the next 23 years painting more than 60 large-scale canvases.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia

This 18th-century aristocratic house is a double delight. It offers a glimpse into the life of the privileged classes in the final century of the Venetian Republic, while the lower floor and the adjoining research library present a modern example of the work of Italian architect Carlo Scarpa (1908-78). The Querini Stampalia is also home to one of the best gift shops in Venice.

 

Robert Veel designed Academy Travel’s Venice residential tour, held every year since 2006, which visits many of these sites. For more information about the tour or to book, visit Academy Travel

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.