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An insider’s guide to where to eat and play in Rome

Pierluigi Roscioli, fourth generation baker and Rocco Forte Hotels ambassador, shares with you a deeply personal side of Rome for you to explore.

The best place for breakfast in Rome?

My current favourite place is Pasticceria San Teo, on Via di San Teodoro near the magnificent Circus Maximus. I love this welcoming yet intimate place for its wonderful espresso or cappuccino and perfect pastries, not to mention the great location, between the Aventine and Palatine hills. Last but not least, our family-run Roscioli Caffè e Pasticceria on Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, a bar-pasticceria serving special coffee, pastries in the morning, gourmet panini and tramezzini at lunch, teatime fare in the afternoon and cheese, cold cuts, wines, oysters and Champagne for your evening aperitivo.

 

What is your favourite place for lunch?

No doubt it has to be Emma, a high-quality pizzeria on Via Monte della Farina, open every day at lunch and dinner in the city centre, near the vibrant Campo de’ Fiori. Their thin crust Roman-style pizza is to die for; they use a careful selection of flours and toppings with quality ingredients from the best artisanal producers. Francesco and Ilaria, the owners, are very welcoming and I always feel at home when I eat there. They have a special pizza dedicated to celebrity chef Fulvio Pierangelini: the Omaggio a Fulvio Pierangelini – mozzarella, fried pepperoni friarielli and Breton scallops with mortadella.

 

Your favourite place for dinner?

For a really authentic Roman food experience, my favourite spot for dinner is L’Arcangelo restaurant by famous chef Arcangelo Dandini, at Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli in the Prati neighbourhood. The gifted Arcangelo is famous for his recipes that stick to pure Roman tradition and his glorious interpretations of classic dishes such as carbonara pasta or gnocchi all’Amatriciana.

 

Where do you go for drinks?

The iconic Stravinskij Bar at the Hotel de Russie, a must for the classic Italian aperitivo. It’s a calm oasis in the heart of the Eternal City, where you can sip bespoke drinks in the stylish Piazzetta. I am a big fan of the Bloody Mary.

 

What’s your favourite place for a wander?

I love cycling along the Tiber River (il Tevere, as we call it), especially at sunset during the warmer months. The path along the Tiber’s edge, inside of the city walls, is such a wonderful and scenic location. Looking up you can see beautiful bridges, historic buildings, trees, flowers, or even popular sites such as Castel Sant’Angelo, which is my favourite spot for starting a ride. As I am a baker and I am used to getting up very early in the morning, I also like starting my day with a relaxing walk from the open-air theatre of the Teatro Marcello to the charming narrow streets of the Jewish quarter (called Il Ghetto). You can still admire the ruins of the walls of the ancient temples of the Portico d’Ottavia – including the marvellous Sant’Angelo in Pescheria Church – and the Synagogue. Then, cross the Jewish Bridge to reach the only island in the Tiber River, the stunning Isola Tiberina.

 

What are your favourite shops?

I like Sartoria Giuliva, a Neapolitan tailor’s shop on Via Margutta, for bespoke suits and exclusive clothes in a pure Italian style with rich fabrics, craftsmanship and great attention to detail. I buy my shoes at the elegant boutique of the Italian brand Fratelli Rossetti on Via del Babuino. For food lovers, I recommend heading to the wonderful cook shop Peroni, located in Piazza dell’Unità. A sanctuary for kitchen equipment in steel, glass, wood and white ceramic, you can also buy pasta machines, kitchen supplies, bread-baking and cake-baking productsf

 

Your favourite cultural spot?

I love visiting churches and there are more than 900 in Rome. My favourite is the Church of St. Louis of the French in Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi, the official French church where you can admire the chapel decorated by Caravaggio with three of his works, including The Calling of Saint Matthew, one of his masterpieces.

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What the European heatwave means for your summer travel plans

    Rachael Thompson Rachael Thompson
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    Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK. 

    Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

    And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

    Why is it so hot in Europe?

    Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

    France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

    In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

    The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

    Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

    How travel is impacted

    A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius
    A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

    During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

    If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

    Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

    people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris
    People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

    With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

    Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

    How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

    Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

    Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

    Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.