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The verdict is in: This is the best ski resort in the world

International Traveller
The verdict is in: St Anton is the best ski resort in the world… and it doesn’t just have enviable ski terrain… but plenty of other distractions too, finds Brian Johnst on.

 

I fling back my hotel curtains to kingfisher-blue skies and fanged, white mountains; fir trees glitter with ice like Swarovski sculptures. The first snowploughs are grunting on the slopes and, as I watch, ski lifts lurch into action. It’s another crisp morning in St.Anton, good enough to make me gobble my breakfast and hurry outside, breath puffing in anticipation at another day’s skiing.

 

I feel there’s no time to waste in this resort. The Arlberg region of western Austria is a fabled ski destination, with St.Anton its epicentre. Now the new Flexenbahn gondola has linked it to companion resort Lech, creating one of the world’s largest ski areas. With over 85 lifts and 305 kilometres of runs waiting, the sun is barely over the mountain rim before I’m clicking into my skis.

 

Who can ski there?

The skiing here is generally best for intermediate and advanced skiers (and boarders, who favour the Rendl side of the valley). I get my morning thrills directly above St.Anton and below the 2,812-metre Valluga peak, a combination of graded runs and magnificent off-piste adventures that have me knee-deep in powder and exhilaration. Snow conditions in St.Anton are some of Europe’s best, with consistent powder and a reliable season between mid-December and early April.

 

What I love is that I’m not just confined to St.Anton. A swoop-worthy run down Plattiwald takes me to Galzig cable car, from whose summit a glorious blue piste swooshes down to St Christoph. As the region’s highest resort at 1800 metres, St Christoph always has good snow, even late in the season – and great lunches at the gnarled, slope-side Hospiz Alm.

Sunset scenes at St Anton.
Sunset scenes at St Anton.

What are the runs like?

The treeless, north-facing slopes above Stuben have more fabulously scenic runs. From here my favourite day out is to connect into the White Ring, a 22-kilometre circuit around the slopes above Lech and Zürs. It sits amid utterly magnificent alpine panoramas, provides 5.5 kilometres of vertical descent, and is one of the most deeply satisfying ski circuits anywhere.

 

I pace myself, never too fast and furious in order to save some evening energy. What sets St.Anton apart from its fellow ski villages is its lively – and occasionally notorious – après-ski scene. By mid-afternoon I’m drifting down towards the music from legendary lower-slope bars such as the MooserWirt and Krazy Kanguruh. As waiters haul 25-kilo trays of beer and schnapps, ski jackets and inhibitions are abandoned as dancing breaks out to Boney M. and ice-hockey anthems. Before long, I’m shimmying on a bench-top and wondering why Gangnam Style ever went out of fashion.

St.Anton pioneered ski tourism and ski techniques.
St.Anton pioneered ski tourism and ski techniques.

What else can you do there?

The hardcore and youthfully unattached will later hit St.Anton’s legendary clubbing scene. I prefer the more sedate pleasures of ARLBERG-well.com , the impressive public wellness centre, where steam rooms and saunas de-knot ski legs; a wallow in the heated outdoor pool is beautiful when snow falls. It’s also a pleasure to perambulate along St Anton’s chic high street, where fancy folk plunder boutiques for the latest ski jackets.

Where should you eat?

St.Anton has a sophisticated restaurant scene, but my favourite is Restaurant Museum inside a lovely old chalet surrounded by light-strung Christmas trees. It has great traditional Austrian food such as spicy, boiled-beef Tafelspitz, Frisbee-sized schnitzels and the shredded-pancake dessert Kaiserschmarrn. Between courses I check out the museum’s displays on St.Anton’s ski heritage.

St Anton looks like a European fairy tale.

What about the history?

St.Anton pioneered ski tourism and ski techniques, a theme expanded in its Hall of Fame at Flexenbahn cable-car station. The Austrian resort’s huge influence on winter sports also comes to life in a Wednesday-evening ski show in which 150 actors and ski instructors demonstrate ski styles through history. Then the fireworks go up, my curtains come down, and I’m off to bed happy. Tomorrow is another day, and my ski boots are ready at the door.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.