Puerto Princesa Underground River Guide

Venture down the Puerto Princesa Underground River, a ‘mountain-to-sea’ ecosystem that holds a spot in the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

Life blossoms even in the darkest and deepest places on Earth. The Puerto Princesa Underground River, previously known as St Paul Subterranean River and National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Palawan, that spans 8.2 kilometres and comes with a hidden cavern showcasing oddly shaped stalactites and stalagmites.

Echoing droplets of water and occasional bat pee are dripping onto the cave’s brackish water, a combination of saltwater and freshwater gently flowing into the chamber with a glaring teeth-like opening.

The underground river lies beneath the Saint Paul Mountain Range that rises 1,028 metres above sea level. It has an elephant-shaped karst limestone opening for seasoned hikers to scramble through multiple ravines and jagged edges to enter.

How to get there

Take a direct flight to Puerto Princesa from Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila, which takes 1 hour and 25 minutes of travel time. It’s approximately a two-hour drive from the city to Sabang Wharf; the jump-off point to the Puerto Princesa Underground River.

boats in front of the entrance of Puerto Princesa Underground River — Enter the jagged teeth-like opening of the underground cave.

What to expect

Wild monkeys (macaques) will greet you as you set foot on the forest trail leading to the underground river. Don’t panic, just continue on until you reach the boat that will lead you inside.

the entrance and exit of the Puerto Princesa Underground River — Head inside the small cave entrance.

Be prepared to traverse a 4.3-kilometre portion of the underground river for about 45 minutes. Going beyond that gets steeper and narrower with little oxygen to breathe in.

Only a segment of the river is open for tourist explorations, and there are still unexplored parts of the river that are yet to discover. In 2010, a group of geologists and environmentalists found small waterfalls coming from the second floor of the cave.

a group of tourists wearing safety helmets and life jackets inside Puerto Princesa Underground River — You’ll need to wear safety helmets and life jackets. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)

The clicking of bats and swooshing of water are the only things you will hear inside the cave. Our guide asked us to wear an audio device that narrated the history and beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage site.

For centuries, stalactites and stalagmites were carved from the build-up of calcites or redeposited minerals after countless droplets of water. Watch out for bats and swallows that live in the impressive cave system.

stunning rock formations and stalactites inside the cave at Puerto Princesa Underground River — Admire stunning stalactites and stalagmites inside the cave.

Navigated entirely by the guide’s searchlight, the cave opens up to incredible stalactites that take the shape of a ship, carrot, corn, mushroom, umbrella and some prominent religious figures.

One chamber of the cave is a heavenly abyss known as The Cathedral where you can seemingly hear church bells ringing if you just let your imagination run wild amid the profound silence. As you go deeper, it gets more enthralling upon reaching a cave dome with a vast ceiling of about 300 metres above the ground.

a source of light inside the cave at Puerto Princesa Underground River — It’s pitch-black inside the cave without using a searchlight. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)

A short detour for an authentic experience

If you’re searching for something to go above and beyond what’s being offered to you, here are some other enchanting activities to sign up for in Puerto Princesa.

Sabang Mangrove Paddle Tour

On your way to the underground river, take a short detour to Sabang Mangrove Forest, located in the neighbouring barangay Cabayugan.

Century-old mangroves provide shelter to monitor lizards, mangrove snakes or binturong, pythons and a variety of endangered bird species. There is also an edible woodworm called Tamilok that inhabits the decaying mangroves. Locals have become accustomed to cracking open a dead branch and eating the raw Tamilok dipped in vinegar.

Go on a boat cruise along the evergreen waters of the Sabang Mangrove Forest. Local paddlers will give you a brief history of the place and serenade you with a personally composed song inspired by the wonders of the mangrove forest.

a group of tourists during Sabang Mangrove Paddle Tour — Cruise along the Sabang Mangrove Forest. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)

Ugong Rock Adventures

Pump up your adrenaline at Ugong Rock, a 50-metre-high limestone formation in the peaceful town of Tagabinet, Puerto Princesa, Palawan. The exhilarating activity is a mix of caving, spelunking and zip-lining through the scenic jungle down a 71-metre drop single ride. Immersing inside the cave will leave you in awe just by looking at the wondrous hollow stalactites.

a woman riding a zipline at Ugong Rock, Puerto Princesa, Palawan, Philippines — Come buzzing through and above the scenic landscape. (Image: Philippine Primer)

Hundred Caves Spelunking Adventure

Stunning speleothems and cave pearls make up the multi-storied Hundred Caves, an emerging eco-tourism site in Puerto Princesa. Climb and ramble through glistening crystals and massive columns that are approximately 80 metres above sea level.

jagged rock formations inside Hundred Caves — Majestic rock formations inside the Hundred Caves will take your breath away. (Image: Traveloka)

Iwahig River Firefly Watching

Spend a magical night surrounded by cosmic clusters of fireflies around mangrove trees as you cruise along the Iwahig River. As the inky blackness envelops you, cherish the moment to bask in the moonlight on a remote stargazing trip. Bathe in the glistening landscape; and if you’re lucky, bioluminescent planktons may also occasionally light up the river’s surface.

fireflies dancing at night — Thousands of fireflies light up the Iwahig River.

Other sights to see and experience in Puerto Princesa

Puerto Princesa is deemed the cleanest and greenest city in the Philippines. Beyond its natural wonders, dig into the city’s local cuisine and immerse in its beautiful culture that is preserved and passed on to many generations.

Here are a few highlights to see and experience in Puerto Princesa.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

Golden South Sea Pearls

Palawan’s rich and thriving marine biodiversity is home to the golden south sea pearls, considered a national gem of the Philippines. Palawan has the cleanest and nutrient-rich waters in the country, making it a perfect spot to culture and preserve these precious jewels. For the locals, growing south sea pearls is both an essential eco-cultural tradition and livelihood.

a pink South Sea Pearl Necklace — A golden south sea pearl necklace is a stunning keepsake to bring home from your Palawan visit.

Balayong or local cherry blossoms

A piece of Japan is currently in the works at Balayong Park and surrounding areas in Puerto Princesa. Native cherry blossoms, called Balayong, start to bloom around the city during the months of February to late March. Balayong festival is also held annually on the 14th of March to commemorate the city’s founding.

a tree of local cherry blossoms blooming at Balayong Park, Puerto Princesa — Find local cherry blossoms at Balayong Park. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)

Crocodile sisig

Crocodile sisig is Palawan’s classic take on the Filipino sizzling pork dish. It tastes like chicken but is a healthier choice with low-fat content and high protein. Eating crocodile meat in Puerto Princesa is allowed as long as it’s farm-bred and did not come from the wild.

The Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center is a wildlife rehabilitation and conservation facility that protects captured crocodiles from the neighbouring towns. They also have a crocodile farm that grows crocodiles for human consumption.

a close-up shot of a Philippine Crocodile — The Crocodylus mindorensis is endemic to the Philippines.

Cashew nuts

Cashew trees are growing abundantly in the city proper and suburbs of Puerto Princesa. No wonder Palawan is hailed as the cashew capital of the Philippines. Don’t miss out on tasting different flavours of cashew such as roasted, chocolate-coated, salted, fried, brittled, and more!

Explore Palawan and discover why it is consistently ranked one of the best islands in the world. For a secluded beach-packed adventure, check out our dreamy four-day itinerary in Balabac.

After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers?

In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.

Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?

Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?

How tourism is changing in Nepal

Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.

Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.

“Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.

Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”

Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.”

CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.

A new generation demanding more

Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”

We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”

Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels — Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you…

bouda stupa prayer flags — Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.

Boudha Stupa vendors — Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.

A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.

Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.

Life unfiltered in the Terai region

tharu woman — Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.

Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.

Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.

Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

“The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.

On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.

community homestay entrance — A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.

The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.

In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.

food at community homestay — Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.

The power of community homestays

community homestay owners in Nepal — Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.

“I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?”

The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed.

Sonara community room — An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.

Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.

CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.

“Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.

In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.

“We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.”

Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”

Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal.

An epic guide to Puerto Princesa Underground River