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The only Hakuba Valley skiing guide you’ll ever need

Offering top-performance powder and more than 200 runs, Hakuba is one of the best places to ski in Japan. This Hakuba Valley skiing guide covers everything first-timers need to know.

Hakuba Valley is blessed with Japan’s famously dry and exceptionally deep powder, attracting skiers and snowboarders to its plethora of resorts. Nestled at the foot of the Northern Japanese Alps in the Nagano Prefecture, yet still only three hours from downtown Tokyo, it promises some of the most abundant snow in the country. 

Each of Hakuba Valley’s 10 ski resorts has something unique to offer, connected via a comprehensive shuttle bus system. There are resorts for powder hounds, for families, for cruisers and for après-ski lovers, and for those who would like nothing better after a long day on the slopes than to soak in a hot-spring bath, surrounded by alpine splendour. 

With more than 100 ski lifts across a variety of terrain, lively après-ski scenes and a multitude of bases to choose from, the only problem with Hakuba Valley is deciding how best to approach it. This Hakuba guide is your one-stop shop to understanding the area, from navigating its ski resorts to lift passes and transport. 

How to get to Hakuba 

hakuba valley shuttle bus
Take the shuttle bus between mountain resorts. (Credit: Pexels/Han Sen)

Bus: The Nagano Snow Shuttle is one of the easiest ways to reach the slopes of Hakuba from Tokyo, with no changes required. However, the journey takes around 6.5 hours.  

Does the bullet train go from Tokyo to Hakuba? 

Train + bus: While there is no direct bullet train between Tokyo and Hakuba, travellers can take the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo Station to Nagano and then take the one-hour Alpico bus directly to Hakuba. With the travel time totalling around 4.5 hours, this is one of the most common ways to get to Hakuba from Tokyo. 

Train: Alternatively, the East Japan Railway Limited Express Trains run a direct service from Shinjuku, Tokyo, to Hakuba Station, which takes three hours and 40 minutes. From the station, it’s a five- to ten-minute shuttle or taxi to the slopes. Read our essential Japan rail travel guide to learn how to navigate Japanese trains with confidence.  

What is the closest city to Hakuba? 

Nagano City is the closest major city to Hakuba Valley, situated around 60 to 90 minutes away by public transport. 

Hakuba lift pass 

hakuba valley snowboarding
Access all 10 of Hakuba Valley’s mountain resorts on the lift pass.

For skiers looking to get the most out of their trip, the Hakuba Valley Lift Pass is a great option. The pass gives you access to all 10 of Hakuba Valley’s ski resorts across the Northern Alps, Hakuba, Otari and Omachi – which includes more than 90 lifts and 200 runs. It also includes complimentary use of the inter-resort Hakuba Valley shuttle bus system for easy transport between the resorts. The cost of the Hakuba lift pass varies depending on how many days you are skiing, with options starting from ¥10,400 for adults (approximately AU $90) and ¥6000 (around AU $52) for children for a one-day pass. For a two-day ticket valid over four days, the price is ¥20,400 per adult and ¥11,700 per child.  

Hakuba ski hire 

There are numerous places to rent ski gear in Hakuba Valley, including Central Snowsports (which has three stores in Hakuba, plus a free guest shuttle), Rhythm Japan (offering more than 3000 skis and snowboards from top brands) and Spicy Rentals, operating since 1984. All offer pre-booked rental options. 

The best time to ski in Hakuba

While you can ski in Japan from November through to March, the best months to go skiing in Hakuba Valley are January and February, when snowfall is heavy and consistent – allowing visitors to experience the country’s famous ‘Japow’ powder. January is typically the busiest time of year due to school holidays. Accommodation prices are generally lower in the second half of February and March.

A guide to Hakuba’s three main bases 

Hakuba Valley’s resorts are spread across three municipalities  – Hakuba Village, Omachi City and Otari Village. Each provides access to the mountain resorts, and allows you to purchase the Hakuba Valley Lift Pass. Below is an overview of each.

Hakuba Village 

the city bakery iwatake hakuba valley
Hakuba Village is home to cosy cafes such as The City Bakery, Iwatake Resort. (Credit: Unsplash/Leo Mendes)  

Main draw: accessibility, range of terrain, après-ski scene 
Best for: families and English speakers 

This is perhaps the most popular base for skiers and snowboarders in Hakuba Valley, with easy access from Tokyo and to the snow itself – especially Hakuba Happo-One Snow Resort. The village is popular with families due to its on-mountain childcare facilities, as well as among expert skiers and snowboarders who love steep terrain. 

There’s charm aplenty here, from the quiet, snow-covered streets to the sight of mountains towering above and Sanosaka is ideal for both beginners and intermediates, who will be bowled over by the on-mountain views of Lake Aoki. Arguably the main attraction of Hakuba Village for international visitors, however, is the ease of getting around here, even if you’re new to Japan and are unfamiliar with the culture and language. Hakuba Village is very much foreigner-friendly, with English spoken throughout, including in bars and restaurants, which are very likely to have English menus. Local onsens, or hot-spring baths, are also used to hosting foreign guests.   

hakuba valley ski resorts
Shred the slopes at Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort. (Credit: Getty/ Robert Parker)

Stay here and you’ll also find it easy to get to the interconnected Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park and Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort, as well as Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field, just to the north. There’s plenty of different accommodation options, too, ranging from deluxe hotel rooms, to self-contained apartments (rare at Japanese ski resorts) to ultra-cheap backpacker-style hostels.  

Given its popularity with international visitors, Hakuba Village also has a great après-ski scene: most hotels have bars attached for post-ski drinks, and there are some excellent Western-style pubs and local-style izakaya spread throughout the village.

Omachi City 

hakuba valley skiing guide
Top-notch powder lures skiers to Japan’s Hakuba Valley. (Credit: Pexels/Shashank Brahmavar)

Main draw: ryokan stays, traditional food, wide runs
Best for: beginner and intermediate skiers and snowboarders 

As the name suggests, Omachi City is a much bigger settlement than Hakuba Village, about a half-hour bus ride south. It provides easy access to Hakuba Valley’s southernmost resorts, including Jigatake and Kashimayari. Jigatake Snow Resort is ideal for beginner skiers and snowboarders, with wide, cruisy runs that are never too crowded, while Kashimayari Snow Resort boasts 5000 metres of downhill with stunning views of the Japanese Alps.   

Omachi City itself is a pleasant, friendly place, manageable in size though still with the facilities and conveniences of a city. This is the area to base yourself in if you fancy staying in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, which often has an onsen bath onsite, and provides sumptuous Japanese meals to guests for breakfast and dinner. Many of these ryokans are clustered around Omachi Onsenkyo, a hot-spring district dotted with outdoor hot-spring baths where skiiers relax after a day on the snow. 

river station omachi
River Station, Omachi City.

In terms of nightlife, most visitors head out in the evenings to Shinano Omachi Gourmet Street, a bustling thoroughfare filled with restaurants and izakaya – the perfect place to sample local Omachi specialties such as steamed vegetable dumplings, Omachi-style Japanese curry, and local sake, which is considered some of the finest in Japan. And don’t miss the annual Omachi Dream Fireworks & Sound Festival held every Saturday night in February. 

Otari Village 

 views from Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort
Stunning views from Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort, near Otari. (Credit: Pexels/Shashank Brahmava)

Main draw: deep snow, back country, onsens, peace and quiet
Best for: intermediate and advanced skiing and snowboarding, couples 

Powder hounds, this is where you want to be. If you’re visiting Japan because you’ve heard stories of waist-deep powder snow, of metres and metres of snowfall week after week, then Otari Village is the perfect place to base yourself.  

This is the closest settlement to Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort, which receives the heaviest snowfall of the region – most of Hakuba Valley’s snowfall records have been set here – and thus has the most reliable powder-ski conditions. Cortina is also well known for its back-country access and its tree skiing, and it’s also connected via lift and ski run to Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort next door. Mt Jigatake is the southern most resorts in the Hakuba Valley and ideal for beginners and novices with wide, easy open slopes. 

Otari Village itself is cosy and quiet, the ideal place to relax and take it easy after a big day negotiating powder-heavy runs. There are a range of onsen options here, which all enjoy views of the surrounding alpine splendour. Otari also has a few traditional restaurants, though those seeking more active nightlife can take the evening shuttle bus over to Tsugaike Mountain Resort, about 15 minutes away, to enjoy a few drinks with like-minded après chasers. Otari is the quieter, more traditional side of the Japan ski scene, perfect for couples and families, and it’s a truly memorable experience. 

Where to ski: Hakuba Valley’s 10 ski resorts 

There’s plenty to explore in Hakuba Valley, including a phenomenal 10 separate mountain resorts. Here’s what makes each one special. 

Hakuba Happo-One Snow Resort  

Hakuba Valley skiing
Hakuba Happo-One Snow Resort is one of the most popular places to ski in Hakuba. (Credit: Unsplash/Colin Blenis)

Situated right above Hakuba Village, this is Hakuba’s best known and most popular resort, and the obvious spot to begin your adventuring. Events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Games were hosted at Happo-One, and the resort is still well known for its steep runs and epic powder – not to mention more than 1000 metres of vertical. Though the resort is best suited to experienced skiers and boarders, there are child-friendly learner slopes here, plus childcare onsite. Happo-One also has the broadest choice of on-mountain food, and a vibrant après-ski scene.  

Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park 

hakuba valley chairlift
Hakuba Valley is a dream for snowboarders. (Credit: Unsplash/Delphine Ducaruge)

Snowboarders naturally gravitate to Hakuba47 for one of the best terrain parks in the valley. If halfpipes and massive kickers are your idea of a good time, then Hakuba47 is the place to be. This resort features Hakuba Valley’s best terrain park, with jumps and rails and boxes designed for a range of abilities. There’s also some great tree skiing and riding here. Beginners will still find trails to suit at Hakuba47, and there’s an excellent ski school here too. 

Hakuba Goryu Ski Resort  

Goryu is big: we’re talking three separate ski areas here – Alps-Daira, Toomi and Iimori – as well as direct access via gondola to Hakuba47 resort next door. With almost 1000 metres of vertical to play with, you could ski or ride here for days and not get bored. Goryu is renowned for the quality of its snow, as well as its panoramic views of the surrounding Alps – making it one of the best Hakuba Valley ski resorts. This is a great resort for beginners and families (each ski area has its own childcare facilities and kids’ ski areas), though there’s also plenty of advanced terrain, and a snow park, for the more experienced.  

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Hakuba Iwatake Ski Resort  

Skiing, Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort, Japan
Iwatake suits intermediate skiers and snowboarders who prefer wide, laid-back gliding terrain.

If it’s a clear day, head on over to Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field and take the gondola to the top: the panoramic views are truly jaw-dropping. Regardless of the weather, however, this is an enjoyable, laid-back resort that’s ideal for intermediate skiers and snowboarders, with plenty of wide, gliding terrain that generally remains uncrowded. Highlights here include Hakuba Mountain Harbour, a food and beverage outlet at the top of the resort with incredible views, and Iwatake no yu, the onsen at the base of the mountain.  

Tsugaike Kogen Ski Resort  

Tsugaike resort hakuba japan
Tsugaike has many wide, open runs suitable for beginners and children. (Credit: Nagano Tourism Organization)

Families, look no further than Tsugaike. This place is paradise for children and beginners, with a huge area of wide, gentle green runs on the lower part of the mountain, and longer greens that run top-to-bottom above. Tsugaike offers multilingual ski schools, on-mountain childcare facilities, and several kids’ play areas, earning it a reputation as one of the best Hakuba Valley ski resorts for families. There are also a few treed runs and a terrain park for those with a bit more experience.

Hakuba Cortina Ski Resort  

Cortina is all about snow: bucket-loads of that famous Japanese powder. This resort can receive up to twice as much snowfall as some neighbouring mountains during the season, and reliably delivers the ‘japow’ experience. There’s tree skiing at Cortina, or more open expert and intermediate trails. Cortina does have a reasonable range of beginner runs, too, and boasts ski-in, ski-out accommodation at the 253-room Hotel Green Plaza Hakuba, which also has three restaurants and onsen facilities onsite. 

Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort 

A family-friendly slope at Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort
A family-friendly slope at Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort. (Credit: Nagano Tourism Organization)

As the name suggests, Norikura is known for its hot springs, in particular Hakuba Alps Hotel, right at the base of the mountain. There are other reasons to come here too, not least the reliable powder snow, as well as the on-mountain connection to Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort next door. Norikura is very much family-friendly, with plenty of gentle trails that will suit all abilities, as well as a dedicated children’s area. For more experienced skiers and riders, there’s also a moguls course, and plenty of tree runs. 

Kashimayari Snow Resort  

Kashimayari Ski Resort, Hakuba Valley, Japan
Kashimayari is a local boutique ski resort in the southern section of the valley.

Working our way towards the north, the next resort is a Kashimayari, a local favourite, and one in which you will be able to experience a truly Japanese atmosphere. Kashimayari is a great place to avoid the crowds of some of the bigger resorts. And although it’s compact, there’s 5000 metres of downhill to enjoy here, plus a snow-tubing park. At the base of the mountain, Central Plaza 1130 offers restaurants, shops, accommodation and outdoor onsen baths.  

Jigatake Snow Resort 

Hakuba Valley’s southernmost mountain resort, Jigatake Snow Resort is perfect for beginners and family groups, with plenty of wide, cruisy runs and a relaxed atmosphere. Those looking to get their hit of adrenaline can always tackle some of the treed runs towards the top of the mountain. However, with a ski lift designed just for children and spectacular views from the slopes over Azumino, this is a great destination for taking it slow.

Hakuba Sanosaka Snow Resort [closed for 2025-26 season) 

Blue Resort Hakuba Sanosaka,Japan
Sanosaka is an intimate ski resort in the southern half of Hakuba Valley.

Sanosaka is another quieter alternative to central resorts such as Happo-One. It’s a modest area that nevertheless has plenty to offer beginners and intermediate skiers and snowboarders, with long, gentle runs and a laid-back, local atmosphere – not to mention incredible views over Lake Aoki. Fun fact: Sanosaka is also dog-friendly, so if you fancy meeting a few Japanese pooches, this is the place to do it. 

Hakuba Valley travel tips 

  • Plan your trip for January or February, when snowfall is at its most consistent 
  • Consider buying a Hakuba Valley Lift Pass for access to 10 mountain resorts 
  • Book accommodation well in advance, especially in February, as it fills up fast 
  • Stay in a hotel close to a shuttle bus stop 

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal