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How to eat your way through Tokyo like a pro

 Tokyo’s diverse food scene has long been touted as the best in the world.

From boasting the most Michelin stars in the world (not that it matters – as you’ll see below), to presenting a seemingly endless trove of hidden spots to discover, a foodie adventure around this immense metropolis is a genuine bucket-list experience.

Forget Michelin – use Tabelog

When trying to navigate an unfamiliar city, tourists often fall back on better-known digital platforms like TripAdvisor and Yelp for their crowd-sourced reviews. In Tokyo – and for that matter, anywhere in Japan – this would be a big mistake, doubly so if you’re only relying on Michelin stars to guide your foodie adventure.

 

For food and drink discovery, the only website you’ll ever need is Tabelog: once a local secret but now an increasingly well-known guide to helping people find the best spots in Tokyo. An English-translated version has recently popped up, making it even more user friendly and accessible for anyone determined to find the city’s hidden gems, a task which can otherwise seem overwhelming given the high standards of food in this city.

 

It works similarly to the likes of Yelp, in that users rate venues on a five-point system. The big difference is that only locals give ratings, and those locals generally have incredibly high standards. As such, anything between a 3.0 and 4.0 is generally considered exceptional, with most Michelin-starred restaurants hovering around the 4.0 mark. As a rule of thumb, anything above a 3.5 is worth travelling for. If you find something above a 4.0, it’ll likely have a few medals listed next to its name.

 

Given Tabelog’s popularity in Japan, the platform has expanded over the years to include numerous categories and lists to make searching much easier. This includes categories for just about every aspect of Japanese cuisine you can think of, as well as price range. Information regarding whether or not the venue accepts credit cards (and what types) is also available to make planning more efficient.

Back of the line

Locals in Tokyo have turned the often dreaded queue into an art form. Politeness is pathological here, as perfectly formed, well-behaved lines lead to highly sought restaurants, concerts, art exhibitions and flash sales. Use this to your advantage, joining a queue whenever you spot one predominantly made up of locals. They are markers for memorable experiences.

 

As we’ve established with Tabelog, Tokyo locals have incredibly high standards when it comes to dining – so if there’s a queue of locals you’re almost guaranteed to discover your next favourite place. A good tip would be to find out what the food stall or restaurant’s name is (in English if possible) first and then search “[name] tabelog" in Google. You’ll soon find out just what you’re getting yourself into.

 

Note that some queues in Tokyo can be so ridiculously long that staff are forced to split the lines into three or even four smaller, orderly lines, so as not to disturb others. A consistent example of this would be N.Y.C Sand (best described as the Tim Tam biscuits of Tokyo, just fancier and less common) on the bottom floor of the Daimaru mall in Tokyo Station. The average wait time to get your hands on these biscuits is around 30 minutes to an hour, with the queue artfully splintered in three.

 

Just be mindful that what appears to be the back of a queue might be the middle. Also note some etiquette: saving spots for friends, talking loud (especially on the phone) and, of course, cutting the line, are all frowned upon.

Tokyo food
Joining a line in Tokyo will be worth the wait

There’s more than sushi and ramen

People who haven’t been to Tokyo before may laugh when you tell them you’re eating pizza and burgers instead of sushi, but they’d be showing their own ignorance. Japanese culture has such regard for technique that when local chefs attempt any other cuisine, they have to do it right or not do it at all.

 

This means years upon years of training in a specific area of the culinary arts, whether that means perfect pizzas, delectable Indian food, or exceptionally crafted burgers. Such is the affinity for technique that you’ll often see popular French patisseries on almost every corner of trendy Tokyo neighbourhoods, secret pizza joints offering only one or two Naples-style options, and authentic ice-creameries serving some of the best scoops you’ll ever have.

 

It’d be foolish to stick to just Japanese food while in Tokyo, so make it a goal to seek out the best of all cuisines in the world’s greatest food city.

Pizza pasta in Shibuya
Mix it up with some Pizza or pasta in Shibuya

Online bookings are key

It has long been rumoured that chefs in Japan regularly turn down coveted Michelin stars, referring to the futility of extra publicity when they already have large followings in a city that has a population of over 9.2 million. It’s hard to argue with that, and there are many top Japanese restaurants that now operate on an invite-only basis, with tourists unfortunately drawing the short end of the stick.

 

However, not all of these restaurants are near impossible to get into, with many of the top-rated spots eventually making their way onto curated booking platforms such as Omakase. Listing some of the best restaurants in the country, Omakase is essential if you want to secure a booking but also find it difficult to navigate the language barrier.

 

An alternative is to make use of your hotel concierge. The aforementioned language barrier is difficult to navigate in Japan, and if you don’t have any local friends who speak the language, getting a concierge to make all the bookings for you is the next best thing.

Cash rules

Although websites like Tabelog will usually inform you which payment solutions a restaurant uses, it’s best to assume that in most cases, you’ll only be able to pay in cash. Although Tokyo is very much a technologically advanced society, cash is definitely the preferred method of exchange.

 

This may seem counterintuitive given countries around the world are moving closer towards becoming cashless societies, but in Japan, where the crime rate is relatively low, the response to alternatives like mobile payments has been muted. This could be because Japan is so exceptionally safe that people still feel comfortable carrying around big wads of cash at any hour of the day.

 

When you’re dining out at restaurants, don’t make the mistake of assuming they will take card. There are plenty of ATMs around (usually in convenience stores – kombini in Japanese), so pull out a few thousand Yen (1000 Yen =  AUD13.38 at time of publishing) before continuing on your food adventure.

Do it in the daytime

For restaurants in Tokyo, the best option is always the omakase, a Japanese phrase meaning “I’ll leave it up to you". This means that the chef picks what you’ll eat, taking the often hard decision-making process out of the equation, so all you have to do is sit back and enjoy. However, this is almost always the most expensive way to enjoy some of Tokyo’s top restaurants.

 

An easy fix for this is to pick where you want to dine, and then go during the day. Omakase lunch specials are commonplace, with restaurants offering lower prices to attract city workers. This is an especially useful way to try out some of the city’s best sushi restaurants without blowing an entire week’s budget in one sitting.

 

Just remember, when it comes to sushi, almost every single chef in Japan is highly skilled and you will always walk away impressed. The differences in the price of a mid-range sushi restaurant and a high-end sushi restaurant just reflect a chef’s depth of experience and where they apprenticed in the past. Quality isn’t necessarily tied to cost.

 

If you’re still unsure you’ll find some hidden gems, here are a few suggestions to get you started.

sushi tokyo
Save on your sushi by noshing at lunch

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1. Narikura, Takadonababa

One of the most popular tonkatsu (crumbed pork) restaurants in Tokyo, and the best thing this writer has ever eaten, with no exceptions. This locally famous restaurant is located in a small neighbourhood on the fringes of Shinjuku, only a three-minute walk up from Takadanobaba Station.

 

Be prepared to join a long queue and wait for up to an hour, ordering from a menu that is not in English (use Google Translate’s photo function if needed). Do note that Narikura opened a new location last year in the outer neighbourhood of Minami-Asagaya.

2. Glaciel, Omotesando

Have you ever made an unplanned food discovery so ludicrously addictive you ended up returning for six consecutive days? This writer has; inching up from the perennially packed Dominique Ansel Bakery on the backstreets of Omotesando only to happen upon Glaciel, an ice-cream and pastry shop frequented by locals. Go for their seasonal ice-cream flavours, two scoops at a time, or linger awhile in their upstairs cafe.

Glaciel is the ice-cream and pastry shop frequented by locals

3. Savoy, Motoazabu

Lifted from obscurity by a feature from the late great Anthony Bourdain, Savoy is one of the most famous spots for authentic Neapolitan style pizza in Tokyo. As the main strip of Roppongi makes its vague turn into Moto-Azabu, Savoy stands proudly on a quiet backstreet with eight to 10 seats organised around an open kitchen.

 

There are only two main options here – margarita or marinara – with both made from scratch right before your eyes. Modest toppings are deftly layered onto fresh dough, then the final productis prodded out of the wood-fired oven, the heat of which can be felt as toe-tapping jazz numbers bounce off the walls.

4. Ramen Itto, Shinkoiwa

Catch a train out to Shin-Koiwa station before Ramen Itto starts trading at 11am and join the nascent queue. You’re about to experience one of the most endearing ramen spots in all of Tokyo, although the smooth, caramelised tsukemen (where the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls) is just as good as the ramen here – if not better.

5. Ebis Banh Mi Bakery, Ebisu

The classic Vietnamese sandwich has been increasingly prevalent throughout the streets of Tokyo, but few can compete with the almighty Ebis Banh Mi Bakery in trendy Ebisu. Not far from the famous Ebisu Yokocho eat-street alleyway (essential for those after a local experience) and right next to a contemporary capsule hotel, this small, stalwart bakery produces some of the best banh mi sandwiches you’re likely to ever have outside of Vietnam.

Ebis Banh Mi Bakery
Ebis Banh Mi Bakery serves the classic Vietnamese sandwich

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal