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How to eat your way through Tokyo like a pro

 Tokyo’s diverse food scene has long been touted as the best in the world.

From boasting the most Michelin stars in the world (not that it matters – as you’ll see below), to presenting a seemingly endless trove of hidden spots to discover, a foodie adventure around this immense metropolis is a genuine bucket-list experience.

Forget Michelin – use Tabelog

When trying to navigate an unfamiliar city, tourists often fall back on better-known digital platforms like TripAdvisor and Yelp for their crowd-sourced reviews. In Tokyo – and for that matter, anywhere in Japan – this would be a big mistake, doubly so if you’re only relying on Michelin stars to guide your foodie adventure.

 

For food and drink discovery, the only website you’ll ever need is Tabelog: once a local secret but now an increasingly well-known guide to helping people find the best spots in Tokyo. An English-translated version has recently popped up, making it even more user friendly and accessible for anyone determined to find the city’s hidden gems, a task which can otherwise seem overwhelming given the high standards of food in this city.

 

It works similarly to the likes of Yelp, in that users rate venues on a five-point system. The big difference is that only locals give ratings, and those locals generally have incredibly high standards. As such, anything between a 3.0 and 4.0 is generally considered exceptional, with most Michelin-starred restaurants hovering around the 4.0 mark. As a rule of thumb, anything above a 3.5 is worth travelling for. If you find something above a 4.0, it’ll likely have a few medals listed next to its name.

 

Given Tabelog’s popularity in Japan, the platform has expanded over the years to include numerous categories and lists to make searching much easier. This includes categories for just about every aspect of Japanese cuisine you can think of, as well as price range. Information regarding whether or not the venue accepts credit cards (and what types) is also available to make planning more efficient.

Back of the line

Locals in Tokyo have turned the often dreaded queue into an art form. Politeness is pathological here, as perfectly formed, well-behaved lines lead to highly sought restaurants, concerts, art exhibitions and flash sales. Use this to your advantage, joining a queue whenever you spot one predominantly made up of locals. They are markers for memorable experiences.

 

As we’ve established with Tabelog, Tokyo locals have incredibly high standards when it comes to dining – so if there’s a queue of locals you’re almost guaranteed to discover your next favourite place. A good tip would be to find out what the food stall or restaurant’s name is (in English if possible) first and then search “[name] tabelog" in Google. You’ll soon find out just what you’re getting yourself into.

 

Note that some queues in Tokyo can be so ridiculously long that staff are forced to split the lines into three or even four smaller, orderly lines, so as not to disturb others. A consistent example of this would be N.Y.C Sand (best described as the Tim Tam biscuits of Tokyo, just fancier and less common) on the bottom floor of the Daimaru mall in Tokyo Station. The average wait time to get your hands on these biscuits is around 30 minutes to an hour, with the queue artfully splintered in three.

 

Just be mindful that what appears to be the back of a queue might be the middle. Also note some etiquette: saving spots for friends, talking loud (especially on the phone) and, of course, cutting the line, are all frowned upon.

Tokyo food
Joining a line in Tokyo will be worth the wait

There’s more than sushi and ramen

People who haven’t been to Tokyo before may laugh when you tell them you’re eating pizza and burgers instead of sushi, but they’d be showing their own ignorance. Japanese culture has such regard for technique that when local chefs attempt any other cuisine, they have to do it right or not do it at all.

 

This means years upon years of training in a specific area of the culinary arts, whether that means perfect pizzas, delectable Indian food, or exceptionally crafted burgers. Such is the affinity for technique that you’ll often see popular French patisseries on almost every corner of trendy Tokyo neighbourhoods, secret pizza joints offering only one or two Naples-style options, and authentic ice-creameries serving some of the best scoops you’ll ever have.

 

It’d be foolish to stick to just Japanese food while in Tokyo, so make it a goal to seek out the best of all cuisines in the world’s greatest food city.

Pizza pasta in Shibuya
Mix it up with some Pizza or pasta in Shibuya

Online bookings are key

It has long been rumoured that chefs in Japan regularly turn down coveted Michelin stars, referring to the futility of extra publicity when they already have large followings in a city that has a population of over 9.2 million. It’s hard to argue with that, and there are many top Japanese restaurants that now operate on an invite-only basis, with tourists unfortunately drawing the short end of the stick.

 

However, not all of these restaurants are near impossible to get into, with many of the top-rated spots eventually making their way onto curated booking platforms such as Omakase. Listing some of the best restaurants in the country, Omakase is essential if you want to secure a booking but also find it difficult to navigate the language barrier.

 

An alternative is to make use of your hotel concierge. The aforementioned language barrier is difficult to navigate in Japan, and if you don’t have any local friends who speak the language, getting a concierge to make all the bookings for you is the next best thing.

Cash rules

Although websites like Tabelog will usually inform you which payment solutions a restaurant uses, it’s best to assume that in most cases, you’ll only be able to pay in cash. Although Tokyo is very much a technologically advanced society, cash is definitely the preferred method of exchange.

 

This may seem counterintuitive given countries around the world are moving closer towards becoming cashless societies, but in Japan, where the crime rate is relatively low, the response to alternatives like mobile payments has been muted. This could be because Japan is so exceptionally safe that people still feel comfortable carrying around big wads of cash at any hour of the day.

 

When you’re dining out at restaurants, don’t make the mistake of assuming they will take card. There are plenty of ATMs around (usually in convenience stores – kombini in Japanese), so pull out a few thousand Yen (1000 Yen =  AUD13.38 at time of publishing) before continuing on your food adventure.

Do it in the daytime

For restaurants in Tokyo, the best option is always the omakase, a Japanese phrase meaning “I’ll leave it up to you". This means that the chef picks what you’ll eat, taking the often hard decision-making process out of the equation, so all you have to do is sit back and enjoy. However, this is almost always the most expensive way to enjoy some of Tokyo’s top restaurants.

 

An easy fix for this is to pick where you want to dine, and then go during the day. Omakase lunch specials are commonplace, with restaurants offering lower prices to attract city workers. This is an especially useful way to try out some of the city’s best sushi restaurants without blowing an entire week’s budget in one sitting.

 

Just remember, when it comes to sushi, almost every single chef in Japan is highly skilled and you will always walk away impressed. The differences in the price of a mid-range sushi restaurant and a high-end sushi restaurant just reflect a chef’s depth of experience and where they apprenticed in the past. Quality isn’t necessarily tied to cost.

 

If you’re still unsure you’ll find some hidden gems, here are a few suggestions to get you started.

sushi tokyo
Save on your sushi by noshing at lunch

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1. Narikura, Takadonababa

One of the most popular tonkatsu (crumbed pork) restaurants in Tokyo, and the best thing this writer has ever eaten, with no exceptions. This locally famous restaurant is located in a small neighbourhood on the fringes of Shinjuku, only a three-minute walk up from Takadanobaba Station.

 

Be prepared to join a long queue and wait for up to an hour, ordering from a menu that is not in English (use Google Translate’s photo function if needed). Do note that Narikura opened a new location last year in the outer neighbourhood of Minami-Asagaya.

2. Glaciel, Omotesando

Have you ever made an unplanned food discovery so ludicrously addictive you ended up returning for six consecutive days? This writer has; inching up from the perennially packed Dominique Ansel Bakery on the backstreets of Omotesando only to happen upon Glaciel, an ice-cream and pastry shop frequented by locals. Go for their seasonal ice-cream flavours, two scoops at a time, or linger awhile in their upstairs cafe.

Glaciel is the ice-cream and pastry shop frequented by locals

3. Savoy, Motoazabu

Lifted from obscurity by a feature from the late great Anthony Bourdain, Savoy is one of the most famous spots for authentic Neapolitan style pizza in Tokyo. As the main strip of Roppongi makes its vague turn into Moto-Azabu, Savoy stands proudly on a quiet backstreet with eight to 10 seats organised around an open kitchen.

 

There are only two main options here – margarita or marinara – with both made from scratch right before your eyes. Modest toppings are deftly layered onto fresh dough, then the final productis prodded out of the wood-fired oven, the heat of which can be felt as toe-tapping jazz numbers bounce off the walls.

4. Ramen Itto, Shinkoiwa

Catch a train out to Shin-Koiwa station before Ramen Itto starts trading at 11am and join the nascent queue. You’re about to experience one of the most endearing ramen spots in all of Tokyo, although the smooth, caramelised tsukemen (where the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls) is just as good as the ramen here – if not better.

5. Ebis Banh Mi Bakery, Ebisu

The classic Vietnamese sandwich has been increasingly prevalent throughout the streets of Tokyo, but few can compete with the almighty Ebis Banh Mi Bakery in trendy Ebisu. Not far from the famous Ebisu Yokocho eat-street alleyway (essential for those after a local experience) and right next to a contemporary capsule hotel, this small, stalwart bakery produces some of the best banh mi sandwiches you’re likely to ever have outside of Vietnam.

Ebis Banh Mi Bakery
Ebis Banh Mi Bakery serves the classic Vietnamese sandwich

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Chris Singh
Chris Singh is an arts, travel and food journalist with 17 years of experience in digital media and 4 years of experience in SEO writing. He is the former travel editor of premium men's lifestyle title Boss Hunting and currently balances his role as Deputy Editor-At-Large of the AU review with freelance travel writing gigs at Australian Traveller, Luxury Escapes, Cruise & Travel and Sydney Travel Guide. Chris holds a Bachelor of Arts & Sciences (Sociology and Psychology) from the University of Sydney and once worked as a line dancer for steakhouse chain Lone Star (no, seriously). He's always got his finger on the pulse for good live music and delicious new restaurants, has a particular love of historic hotels and is starting to see the restorative value of the ever-present wellness industry. Although he is a born-and-bred Sydneysider, his favourite Australian cities are Hobart and Adelaide. Internationally, he can never get enough of big cities like Tokyo, New York and Chicago. If you're looking for him, he's either at a concert, on a plane or behind a laptop.
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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.