The 10 best ski resorts in the Hakuba valley for families

Your guide to Hakuba Valley’s ski resorts

As Japan’s largest alpine area, there’s plenty to explore in Hakuba Valley, including a phenomenal 10 separate resort areas. Here’s what makes each one special.

One lift pass, 10 ski resorts. That’s what is on offer for visitors to Hakuba Valley, the chance to buy one single lift ticket – the Hakuba Valley Day Pass – and have access to 10 separate mountain resorts, each with something unique to offer, and each with something different to appeal to skiers and snowboarders, regardless of their level of on-snow expertise.

We’re talking resorts for powder hounds, for families, for cruisers and for après-ski lovers, and for those who would like nothing better after a long day on the slopes than to soak in a hot-spring bath, surrounded by alpine splendour.

If you’re planning a trip to Hakuba Valley, these are the 10 best options (in no particular order).

1. Jigatake Snow Resort

Hakuba Valley’s southernmost mountain resort Jigatake Snow Resort is perfect for beginners and family groups, with plenty of wide, cruisey runs and a relaxed atmosphere. Those looking to get their hit of adrenaline can always tackle some of the treed runs towards the top of the mountain; however, with a ski lift designed just for children, and spectacular views from the slopes over Azumino, this is a great destination for taking it slow.

2. Kashimayari Snow Resort

Kashimayari Ski Resort, Hakuba Valley, Japan — Kashimayari is a local boutique ski resort in the southern section of the valley.

Working our way towards the north, the next resort is a Kashimayari, a local favourite, and one in which you will be able to experience a truly Japanese atmosphere. Kashimayari is a great place to avoid the crowds of some of the bigger resorts: and although it’s compact, there’s 5000 metres of downhill to enjoy here, plus a snow-tubing park. At the base of the mountain, Central Plaza 1130 offers restaurants, shops, accommodation and outdoor onsen baths.

3. Blue Resort Hakuba Sanosaka (2021-2022 Winter season closed)

Blue Resort Hakuba Sanosaka,Japan — Another intimate ski resort in the southern half of the valley, Sanosaka is great for novice and intermediate skiers and snowboarders.

Sanosaka is another quieter alternative to central resorts such as Happo-one, a modest area that nevertheless has plenty to offer beginners and intermediate skiers and snowboarders, with long, gentle runs and a laid-back, local atmosphere – not to mention incredible views over Lake Aoki. Fun fact: Sanosaka is also dog friendly, so if you fancy meeting a few Japanese pooches, this is the place to do it.

4. ABLE Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort

Ski Resort. Hakuba Goryu, Japan — Goryu is big; three seperate snowfields and 1000m vertical drop it would take days of skiing for it to become at all repetitive.

Goryu is big: we’re talking three separate ski areas here – Alps-Daira, Toomi and Iimori – as well as direct access via gondola to Hakuba47 resort next door. With almost 1000 metres of vertical to play with, you could ski or ride here for days and not get bored. Goryu is renowned for the quality of its snow, as well as its panoramic views of the surrounding Alps. This is a great resort for beginners and families (each ski area has its own childcare facilities and kids’ ski areas), though there’s also plenty of advanced terrain, and a snow park, for the more experienced.

5. Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park

Hakuba47, Snow Resort, Hakuba Valley, Japan — Snowboarders naturally gravitate to Hakuba47 for one of the best terrain parks in the valley.

If halfpipes and massive kickers are your idea of a good time, then Hakuba47 is the place to be. This resort features Hakuba Valley’s best terrain park, with jumps and rails and boxes designed for a range of abilities. There’s also some great tree skiing and riding here. Beginners will still find trails to suit at Hakuba47, and there’s an excellent ski school here too.

6. Hakuba Happo-one Snow Resort

Happo-one Snow Resort, Hakuba Valley, Japan — Steep and deep, Happo-one is the most famous of the Hakuba Resorts, hosting many of the Nagano winter Olympic events.

This is Hakuba’s best known and most popular resort, Happo-one situated right above Hakuba Village, and the obvious spot to begin your Hakuba Valley adventuring. Events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Games were hosted at Happo-one, and the resort is still well known for its steep runs and epic powder – not to mention more than 1000 metres of vertical. Though the resort is best suited to experienced skiers and boarders, there are child-friendly learner slopes here, plus childcare onsite. Happo-one also has the broadest choice of on-mountain food, and a vibrant après-ski scene.

7. Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field

Skiing, Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort, Japan — Take the gondala to the summit at Iwatake for one of the best views of the valley and mountains. The skiing itself suits the intermediate skiers and snowboarders who prefer wide laid-back gliding terrain.

If it’s a clear day, head on over to Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field and take the gondola to the top: the panoramic views are truly jaw-dropping. Regardless of the weather, however, this is an enjoyable, laid-back resort that’s ideal for intermediate skiers and snowboarders, with plenty of wide, cruisey terrain that generally remains uncrowded. Highlights here include HAKUBA MOUNTAIN HARBOR, a food and beverage outlet at the top of the resort with incredible views, and Iwatake no yu, the onsen at the base of the mountain.

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8. Tsugaike Mountain Resort

Skiing, Tsugaike Kogen Ski Resort, Japan — Despite the picture, Tsugaike is ideal for kids and beginners with many long and winding green (easy) runs. And just to make sure everyone has fun there are a few treed runs for the experienced.

Families, look no further than Tsugaike. This place is paradise for children and beginners, with a huge area of wide, gentle green runs on the lower part of the mountain, and longer greens that run top-to-bottom above. Tsugaike offers multilingual ski schools, on-mountain childcare facilities, and several kids’ play areas. There’s also a few treed runs and a terrain park for those with a bit more experience.

9. Hakuba Norikura Onsen Snow Resort

Snow Resort, Mt. Norikura, Japan — Norikura is known for its on-mountain onsen, a soothing way to relax after a hard days skiing.

As the name suggests, Norikura is known for its hot springs, in particular Hakuba Alps Hotel, right at the base of the mountain. There are other reasons to come here too, not least the reliable powder snow, as well as the on-mountain connection to Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort next door. Norikura is very much family friendly, with plenty of gentle trails that will suit all abilities, as well as a dedicated children’s area. For more experienced skiers and riders, there’s also a moguls course, and plenty of tree runs.

10. Hakuba Cortina Snow Resort

Ski Resort 2, Cortina, Japan — Famous for its ample and incredible powder snow, Cortina is a snow lovers paradise.

Cortina is all about snow: bucket-loads of that famous Japanese powder. This resort can receive up to twice as much snowfall as some neighbouring mountains during the season, and reliably delivers the ‘japow’ experience. There’s tree skiing at Cortina, or more open expert and intermediate trails. Cortina does have a reasonable range of beginner runs, too, and boasts ski-in, ski-out accommodation at the 253-room Hotel Green Plaza Hakuba, which also has three restaurants and onsen facilities onsite.

After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers?

In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.

Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?

Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?

How tourism is changing in Nepal

Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.

Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.

“Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.

Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”

Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.”

CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.

A new generation demanding more

Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”

We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”

Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels — Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you…

bouda stupa prayer flags — Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.

Boudha Stupa vendors — Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.

A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.

Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.

Life unfiltered in the Terai region

tharu woman — Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.

Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.

Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.

Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

“The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.

On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.

community homestay entrance — A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.

The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.

In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.

food at community homestay — Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.

The power of community homestays

community homestay owners in Nepal — Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.

“I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?”

The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed.

Sonara community room — An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.

Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.

CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.

“Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.

In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.

“We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.”

Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”

Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal.

The 10 best ski resorts in the Hakuba Valley for families