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5 reasons Johannesburg is not so scary anymore

International Traveller

From eat streets to creative hangs, here’s why you should linger in South Africa’s largest city a little longer.

Johannesburg used to have a fearsome reputation; mainly for its crime. A city that you thought twice about staying in even though your plane probably landed there.

It still probably isn’t the place where you’ll spend most your time in South Africa: Cape Town, the Garden Route or a safari in Kruger National Park will always top this list.

But there are a growing number of reasons so spend some time here. Johannesburg’s a place that’s finally finding its feet, its centre. Next time you land in Joburg, here are a five reasons to stay a little longer.

 

1. Johannesburg’s foodie future?

The Neighbourgoods Markets, tucked away down a central laneway in the young, lively, on-the-up neighbourhood of Braamfontein, is Johannesburg’s best foodie experience hands down; a multicultural glimpse into the city’s foodie future.

All the latest international food movements are represented, of course, from Korean barbecue stalls to rows and rows of hued-filled macaroons and fair-trade dark chocolate. But what sets this market apart from one in, say, Sydney’s inner city, for example, is the hybrid African fare on offer, from rich Cape Malay curry dishes such as bunny chow to ever-evolving prototypes of biltong.

The energy of stallholders like the Beignet Brothers (who dance and chant their wares like they’re in a beer hall) contribute to a lively, sugary atmosphere that, to be honest, other neighbourhoods of Johannesburg could learn from.

Upstairs is a floor of artisan jewellery makers (a zipper necklace anyone?), fashion up-cyclers and sellers of colourful low-run fun ‘stuff’. Speaking of artisan, you will have to line up for your coffee here, but the live music will lessen the burden. The worst thing about Neighbourgoods is that it’s only open on Saturdays.

 

2. Reflecting at the Apartheid Museum

If you’re up for an oft-confronting but truly captivating history lesson, there can’t be too many better museums in Africa (or maybe the world) than the Apartheid Museum (near the Gold Reef City Casino).

It’s a no-punches-pulled look at the racial split of South Africa, unfurling the story of the struggle and carnage through art, displays and astonishing footage that illustrates the war-like intensity of the time. The scene is set early, as you walk through foreboding steel turnstiles into a military-bunker-like concrete façade. On arrival, your ticket will, randomly and thought-provokingly, designate you as white or non-white – powerful stuff!

Although, the stark Apartheid exhibition is the museum’s raison d’être, the comprehensive Nelson Mandela exhibition (which started as a temporary display) now commands the bulk of attention. Those with even a passing interest in the great man, of history, or the struggle for human rights, will want to spend a couple of hours here.

 

3. Rose(bank) among the….

Few places embody go-go-go entrepreneurial Joburg like uptown Rosebank (just north of the city centre).  The shiny inner-city hub is renowned for its shop-portunities at Rosebank Mall. But the suburb is also beginning to have a splinter renaissance in the form of the Keyes Art Mile, a growing cultural area and eat street.

Perhaps the star here, in terms of restaurants at least, is Marble (with great daytime city views). Its huge open yet bustling third-storey jazz-filled space is crammed with the city’s new elite, from six-foot-seven Afrikaans rugby players to hip young black entrepreneurs.

The fare is typical SA; gargantuan serves of grilled meat, including game, cooked over open-flame, with traditional African staples such as paps and spicy chakalaka always close at hand. Marble knows how trendy it is: even if you have a booking, they will make you wait in the bar.

At the slightly higher end of the shopping scale is the massive mall at financial hub Sandton City. Get a snap with the oversized dancing statue of Nelson Mandela in the square before you browse (or buy) from the stack of high-end boutiques, salons and recognisable international brands like Hamleys.

Head to the San Deck for a Sunset Martini (featuring Marula juice) and people-watching over the piazza. If you’re looking for a mid-range dinner option, the Butcher Shop & Grill offers pan-fried ostrich fillet with cranberry sauce, paired with a full-bodied SA pinotage, and bubbly service.

 

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4. The markets for that last-minute African souvenir

At the end of your African trip and in need of the distinctly African curios that you forgot to/couldn’t find on the road? Hidden just outside (and underneath) Rosebank Mall, you’ll find all the South African (and pan-African) paintings, hangings and clothes you should need at Rosebank Art & Craft Market.

Among the plentiful stalls of the underground ethnographic market there are the usual fridge magnets and tat, but also distinctive batiks, stunning beadworks and jewellery worth the browse. Expect to bargain, but it’s fairly soft-sell compared with most African or Asian markets you may have been to.

You won’t find it by accident; walk through a smallish shop at the entrance, then down some non-descript stairs at the back. The market was once outside and next to the mall, but was apparently moved indoors to keep away petty street crime.

 

5. You seriously can’t miss Soweto

During the hate-filled Apartheid years, Johannesburg’s Southwestern Townships (Soweto) was, quite rightfully, a no-go area for whites. Today, on a visit to Joburg, it is a must-visit. T

he township, with an official population of around 1.3 million, but an unofficial one perhaps twice that thanks to sprawling shanty towns, is an animated and energetic snapshot of what’s good (and sometimes not so good) about the modern melting pot of South Africa.

Take a (bike, walk, bus, tuk tuk) tour with a local; bungee jump from an old electrical power station (Orlando Towers) or visit Vilakazi Street, famous for being the only street in the world that once had two Nobel Peace Prize laureates living on it: Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. For the most immersive (and active) experience, a bicycle tour around the streets can help you understand the struggles and triumphs of some truly poor communities.

 

Just how dangerous / safe is Johannesburg?

We are not going to sugar-coat it: despite improvements, Johannesburg can still be a dangerous city if you’re in the wrong place at the wrong time (usually after dark). Crime is high is some areas and security is tight (the barbed wire industry is still a cash cow) but the statistics say that offences against tourists are on the decline, thanks to initiatives such as Business Against Crime South Africa (BASCA) . Many hotels recommend taking only official taxis at night and not walking alone around unlit streets after dark. If you are unsure, book your transport and accommodation ahead. These precautions should see you right. Check with locals for areas to avoid, such as inner-city Hillbrow (mainly at night), unless you’re with a local who knows the area.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.