Review: Geo Glamping in Patagonia

The world’s first geodesic hotel in the remote wilderness of Chile, that’d be glam, right? Liz Schaffer finds out.

I believe the best Chilean holidays should leave you wide-eyed and dust covered.

Nestled in the Patagonian wilderness at the foot of Torres del Paine’s iconic granite towers lies EcoCamp Patagonia, which prides itself on its sustainable design and unconventional approach to glamping.

There is no internet, mobile phone reception nor TV. Punta Arenas, at the southern tip of South America, is 370 kilometres away and at night the main source of light is the moon.

As a fan of remoteness, this was blissful.

The layout is simple. Raised wooden walkways link the three ‘community domes’ (home to the bar and dining room), communal bathroom and various green accommodation domes, all of which overlook the ancient Patagonian plains.

Wildflowers and roving condors add character while solar panels and a micro-hydro turbine provide the energy.

As the world’s first geodesic hotel, most of the accommodation domes are designed to only house two guests, so our family was split between the standard and superior domes.

As the name would imply the latter was definitely the more luxurious option. Built in the same shape as the ancient Kawesqar tribe dwellings, this suite rocks rustic wooden interiors, a wood stove and open terrace.

Fleecy bedding aside, the real selling point was the ceiling skylights that let you fall asleep watching the spectacular light show put on by the various constellations of the Southern Hemisphere.

Naturally, having a private bathroom is an added advantage.

The standard domes feel a little like hobbit holes (it took me four days to remember just how low I had to stoop to avoid my doorframe), but soon become home.

Considerably larger, the community domes are the heart of the camp; a place to charge laptops and cameras (there’s no power in the standard domes), hear about upcoming activities and pour over the assorted maps and guide books. It’s the sort of space that makes liveliness, work and conversation flow.

Evenings feel like a slightly chaotic dinner party, complete with home-style food and service.

The Patagonian fusion cuisine mixes the familiar with purple potatoes, quinoa and patasca from the Altiplano. Dishes arrive at the table when they’re ready, so guests pass the time sampling the numerous bottles of local wine decorating the tables.

To be honest though, the vibrant, spice-filled fare was wasted on me. After a day out in Torres del Paine I was happy to eat anything.

Led by enthusiastic, young guides I had encountered the national park’s wild plains, glacial lakes, roaring waterfalls and treks over every imaginable terrain.

The Paine Massif, which reaches a height of 2883 metres and is part of the Andes chain, is a particularly humbling feature.

Thankfully the guides’ youth works in their favour; they were as fascinated by the surrounds as me and always up for a mid-walk chat. They can also prepare a lethal Pisco Sour come cocktail hour.

The company and location all made me feel quite adventurous. So while discussing activity options post-dinner I’d regularly choose a 22-kilometre portion of the aptly named Paine Circuit over the bike ride and barbecue on the Patagonian flats. It’s all too easy to be tempted by the stunning backdrop and inevitable sense of achievement.

While some of Torres del Paine’s iconic attractions lie further afield (Glacier Grey is a good two hour’s drive from the camp and several walks can only be reached by boat), you can simply step out of your dome and begin a hike.

My clan discovered this when breaking from EcoCamp’s cyclical Wildlife Safari program.

After voicing our desire to go solo for a day we were presented with a map and willing guide who led us on a private walk along a glacial river.

While they don’t advertise this fact, all you need to do here is speak up. Let staff know exactly what you want on the activity front and they’ll do their best to deliver.

This eagerness, more than anything, made me dread my return to the modern world. Turns out early morning hikes, communal living and the thrill of the outdoors are rather difficult to bid farewell.

The Details
EcoCamp Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, +56 229235950; ecocamp.travel

The IT Verdict
Liz Schaffer who paid her own way and visited anonymously, says: “For lovers of adventure, activity and all things eco-friendly, this bustling little camp is the perfect Patagonian haven."

Notes
Liz Schaffer paid $346 per night and booked directly.

Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

1. Easy access to good food

meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 — Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

2. Better sleep options

Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room — Sleep deeply with Novotel.

There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

3. More ways to move

woman hiking around queenstown new zealand — Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

4. Better connections

Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

5. Location is everything

Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld — Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.