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Review: Lapostolle Residence, Chile

International Traveller

Tucked away in a verdant Chilean valley, Gina Reynolds indulges herself in an award-winning property that redefines the concept of five-star luxury.

There are times in one’s life to overcome any feelings of guilt and simply partake in the hedonistic pleasures of sheer indulgence!

This was one of those times: I had booked two nights in one of the world’s finest and most respected vineyard resorts, Lapostolle Residence in Clos Apalta in Chile’s Colchagua Valley.

Considered one of the best wine regions in the world, the Colchagua Valley is around two-and-a-half hours’ drive south of Santiago.

Out of this poor soil rich things grow and as far as the eye can see merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, shiraz, and carmenere vines thread their way across the Clos Apalta valley floor. They’re the lifeblood of Lapostolle and the world-famous wines it produces.

Appearing to crown this verdant majesty, a magnificent bronze sculpture rises triumphantly upon the hill ahead of me. Rendered in reflective glass it mirrors the views of this family-owned vineyard, yet cleverly conceals the actual entrance to Lapostolle’s winery within.

We drive past the sculpture to the Residence. Having arrived just before lunch, we are invited to relax alongside the infinity pool in a garden sketched with soft grasses and cacti.

We’re visiting in summer when the dining tables are laid with relaxed elegance and set on granite flagstones overlooking the vineyard.

We sip an aperitif, a Kappa Blue Star blended with blueberries and described as a “Pisco like no other" (a Chilean favourite which is usually a potent blend of grape brandy, lime, egg white and Angostura bitters).

We are given a personalised menu of four courses (think Michelin-star quality) with four perfectly matched handcrafted wines to accompany each.

It’s not just reds that are on offer; two superb whites from Lapostolle’s vineyards north of Colchagua, in Casablanca and Las Kuras, are also featured. All of the bottles remain on the table for us to enjoy at our leisure.

Lapostolle Residence hosts a maximum of four couples at a time in four huge casitas or lodges. Nestled into the native forest hillside, each has a private terrace and garden and affords absolute privacy.

The décor is inspired by the four varietals that make up the blend of Lapostolle’s iconic Clos Apalta wine.

We are staying at the very top in the Carmenere casita; Carmenere is the name of a Bordeaux grape varietal which was brought to Chile before the onset of the phylloxera aphid which destroyed the vines in France. It is grown here in Colchagua.

Our massive 90 square-metre lodge is all glass and pale honey coloured rauli wood, softened by the natural light and the lime colours in the silk and leather upholstery. It’s as heavenly inside as it is out, with the spacious surrounds, much like the views, seeming to go on and on. Time is precious here.

The fan gently spins in the high arc of the ceiling and I choose not to close the automatic blinds at night so that I can wake and be greeted, in my bigger than king-size bed, by the sight of the early morning kissing the grape-laden valley beyond.

Whether walking, sitting, bathing, swimming, eating, drinking, having a massage or practising yoga, there are breathtaking views across the Clos Apalta valley everywhere you look.

Initially I’d imagined driving from Santiago to Colchagua’s main town of Santa Cruz and choosing some much more affordable accommodation, then joining one of the premium wine tours which operate in the area.

But I kept returning to the highly prestigious and very tempting Relais & Chateaux property, Lapostolle, tempted by its awards – Wine Spectator’s World’s Best Wine for its Clos Apalta 2005 – and the outstanding reviews of its accommodation and food.

In 1994 Madame Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, great-granddaughter of the creator of Grand Marnier, and her husband Cyril de Bournet undertook a creative challenge with no expense spared, blasting tonnes of granite bedrock out of a sloping hillside in order to build a six-storey, gravitational, fully organic winery below ground.

Today, a corkscrew shaped, spiral staircase of recycled granite curls down 25 metres below the stunning sculpture visible on the surface. It’s meant to resemble wine swirling in a glass.

We take a private tour between lunch and dinner and taste the results of blending French expertise with the perfect Chilean climate, soil and conditions; Lapostolle’s Casa Grand Selection Sauvignon Blanc, chardonnay, and the blends borobo and Clos Apalta. Never have I felt quite so spoilt.

If exercise is required between all the fine dining and wining, guests can choose from horse-riding, swimming or mountain biking. I decide to walk down through the vineyards to admire the organic fruit, vegetable and herb gardens before strolling on to the farm.

Looking between the vines I am greeted with an endless chorus of “hola!" from the girls pruning the grapes. I check out the horses, chicken and a llama, and although I successfully tiptoe past the dozing dog, I accidentally scuttle the geese and ducks.

I had been concerned about how my husband and I would manage breakfast, followed by four courses for lunch and the same again for dinner, complemented by four separate wines and, of course, a Grand Marnier liquor, but it was never an issue; something to do with pacing ourselves in the knowledge that at the Residence there was always something equally brilliant to come.

 

Details

Lapostolle Residence

Clos Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, +56 72 2953 360, en.lapostolle.com

The IT Verdict

It’s a definite ‘why not spoil yourself’ for couples who love to immerse in all-inclusive, relaxed luxury.

  •  Location: 10/10
    This intimate Chilean hideaway is all about the amazing, inspirational views, and it’s only a 10-minute drive to the Santa Cruz Museum.
  • Style/character: 10/10
    Where luxury shares a perfect affinity with nature. Walk, cycle or ride amongst the vineyards, past the organic gardens, to the farm.
  • Service: 10/10
    Generous and unpretentious warmth; we’re told “Treat this as your home". You really are a special house guest.
  • Rooms: 10/10
    A huge WOW factor. A masterpiece in design makes for cool luxury.
  • Food and drink: 9.5/10
    Wine and food lovers rejoice! I loved the exquisite courses paired with freely poured, incredible wines.
  • Value for money: 8.5/10
    Even though it’s approximately $1541 per night, per couple I recommend a two-night stay (or longer!). Lapostolle offers a chauffeured car from Santiago for $343 each way.

 

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

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    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Review: Lapostolle Residence, Chile - International Traveller Magazine