The Savoy Hotel London: Does London's first luxury hotel still define elegance?
The Savoy Hotel is the seminal luxury hotel in London and Europe. Built for an exclusive clientele based on the emerging luxury hotels of the US, we check in to see if the first luxury hotel in London has still got it.
Few people would not hear the words Savoy Hotel and not have some sense of an esteemed luxury hotel. It deserves iconic status (a word that is so overused) for more than the experiences it delivers today but for its history of serving the most elite clientele in the world and having a lasting impact on luxury hotels worldwide.
The Savoy backstory
The Savoy has more history and enduring influence than perhaps any other hotel in the world.
The Savoy was built by Richard D’Oyly Carte, a theatre producer who made his money from Gilbert & Sullivan productions (the profits from Mikado financed the establishment of the Savoy).
He developed the Savoy Theatre first and then purchased the lot next to it with a vision for a luxury hotel based on the burgeoning US luxury hotels.
Opened in 1889 Carte fired his launch team after six months of losses and brought in César Ritz to bring his vision to life. Ritz then assembled a formidable “army of hotel men” from France that would set the tone for the hotel and whose proteges would then go on to found similarly remarkable establishments.
Ritz brought in the esteemed Auguste Escoffier, who is still recognised today as the father of French cooking techniques and establishing the professionalism of kitchens, as chef de cuisine and Louis Eschenauer as maître d’hôtel.
These three immediately established The Savoy as the premiere destination for aristocrats, royals, the wealthy, celebrities and distinguished by incredible service and innovation. For example, Escoffier would create the Peach Melba and Melba Toast for Dame Nellie Melba.
Ritz and this team’s achievements would then propel them to found the Ritz in Paris and the rest as they say is history (although the three of them were fired from The Savoy for fraud).
The service is one thing, but The Savoy is also synonymous with innovation. It was the first hotel in the UK to be lit by electricity (the Savoy theatre was the first public building to be lit by electricity) or install electric lifts. It was also the first hotel in the UK to have ensuite bathrooms in most of the rooms with constant hot and cold water.
With the help of a long-term resident Guglielmo Marconi, the hotel used the telegram to promote booking a hotel room from your ship before arriving in London to travellers on transatlantic journeys.
Most recently The Savoy closed for renovations in 2007 and almost three years and £220 million later it reponed.
The Savoy is so etched in the common lexicon as the pinnacle of luxury hotel experiences that today it still evokes butterflies for those who are about to check-in.
The glamourous are still checking in and in the 135 years, almost every well-known personality or celebrity has had some relationship with The Savoy.
First Impressions
For a sense of arrival, The Savoy is hard to beat.
It is unmistakenly grand Art Deco from the moment you swing off the Strand into the forecourt, the only road in the UK where you must drive on the right.
Passing under the golden statue of Count Peter of Savoy the top hat-adorned doorman is everything you expect from refined London luxury.
The incongruous palm trees on the foyer entrance give a distinctively leisure feel. The wooden revolving doors are a paradox. Cutting-edge design at their time of adoption, they now give the hotel a bygone charm.
The foyer is unmistakably art deco with black/white chequerboard floor tiles, square marble columns that house ornate gold fixtures and ornate Greek reliefs in the wall spaces between columns.
The foyer peels off into several directions, the most prominent is the stairs down to the Thames Foyer and the instantly recognisable gazebo from which a pianist will often accompany their world-famous afternoon tea.
The reading room to the left of the descending staircase is perhaps a secret space perfect for a coffee and a paper while waiting for rooms to be readied or other guests.
Stairs to the left lead to the American Bar.
The room
Across the 267 rooms, there are several room and suite types. Our stay is in a two-chambered ‘Personality Suite’. Ours is the Charlie Chaplin who lived here for three months in 1952.
The suite on the 7th floor of the building facing the Thames is composed of a sitting room, bedroom, walk-in robe, ensuite bathroom, visitor WC and an entrance anteroom.
Entering the suite the river views should make the biggest impact but it is the simple cane and hat sitting on a side table. The little tramp’s props are charming and engender a sense of being part of history.
Both rooms have large windows to capitalise on the vista. The Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and the London Eye to the west and the National Theatre and Blackfriars Bridge to the east, this is a privileged perspective of London and the Thames.
The walls feature a full portrait of Chaplin as a 1950s gent sans characteristic moustache. The settee and glass coffee table are comfortably placed in front of the fireplace and a sideboard houses the complimentary non-alcoholic mini bar, tea, coffee and renowned Savoy Cocktail book which has to be purchased if you would like to add it to your own library.
The bedroom is very spacious, king size bed, a sedan to sit on and an appropriately oversized wall-mounted TV.
A walk-in wardrobe precedes the marble bathroom with enthusiastic underfloor heating that is hot underfoot and lifts the temperature several degrees from bedroom to bathroom.
A claw-footed freestanding tub complete with a bath caddy sits in an alcove on the black/white floor tiles.
Bespoke floral toiletries Savoy Steam from Penhaligon’s are accompanied by a panoply of loafers, buds and kits.
A free-standing light stand and bed lamps are all manually operated.
The facilities – Bars
Both bars of noteworthy.
The American Bar
In a land famous for its historic pubs, the American Bar is an anomaly.
Drawing on the original US luxury hotel inspiration the American Bar was one of the first to serve American-style cocktails in the UK and is the oldest surviving cocktail bar in London.
Today it is a historic bar with an impressive cocktail and spirit list while the cocktail book is on the shelves of any serious cocktail connoisseurs.
Small tables are surrounded by squat curved lounge chairs. The space is cramped but it is a piece of history well worth the experience.
The Beaufort Bar
Despite being added during the 2010 extensive refurbishment, the Beaufort Bar is more ostentatiously Art Deco than the American Bar.
Jet-black and golden fixtures and enclaves, the DJ music gives it a very modern sultry and intimate vibe.
The facilities – Restaurants
The Savoy has three different Gordon Ramsay eateries while breakfast and afternoon tea are served in the Thames Foyer.
Thames Foyer
The Thames Foyer is the heart of The Savoy, found at the bottom of the central staircase from the hotel entrance.
The breakfast menu is regal in its breadth and width. The Savoy Breakfast is an epic British fry-up and comes in a vegan and vegetarian version.
And as you would expect from the Savoy, there are Classic Savoy breakfast items.
The “Arnold Bennett” omelette was created in the 1920s and is made with smoked haddock, hollandaise sauce and cheese. To make it as indulgent as possible there are options to add a half lobster tail or 5g of caviar.
The Savoy Afternoon Tea is an institution that started from the very first day of the hotel in 1889. Back then the Thames Foyer was in fact the terrace with magnificent views of the Thames. Typical English weather saw the terrace enclosed under glass which created the Thames Foyer.
The menu serves up the ultimate in refined English High Tea including Coronation Chicken Sandwiches, cured cucumber, Scottish smoked salmon plus scones, clotted cream and more than 30 different teas.
River Restaurant
Behind the Thames Foyer, Ramsay’s ‘relaxed’ restaurant in The Savoy is the best of British and international seafood. The intimate space feels a lot more upmarket than the ‘relaxed’ moniker Ramsay’s team has put on the restaurant.
The pink gold decor and furnishings are not what most of us would label relaxed. The centre elliptical-shaped centre bar pushes most of the seating to the walls and creates several more intimate settings and banquettes. The coveted tables are those that make the most of the river views.
The menu serves up two brands of caviar, a raw bar with cured salmon and ceviche, chilled seafood platters and of course oysters from the channel and Ireland.
For the true carnivores, the Beef Wellington is an elevated British staple. There are two and three-course lunch specials during the day.
Restaurant 1890 by Gordon Ramsay
Recently receiving its first Michelin star, the restaurant’s name is a nod to the pioneering Escoffier. Restaurant 1890 only seats 26 and offers an 8-course degustation menu with matching wines or choose from the vintage wine list.
With limited seats a reservation at the restaurant is advised at time of booking the hotel.
Savoy Grill
The Savoy Grill is synonymous with the hotel and created as much of an impact on the dining scene in London as the hotel itself.
Aside from the famous Beef Wellington the Savoy Grill is a steak-driven diner with the best cuts of beef served from a charcoal grill including the signature Cote de Boeuf.
The location
It is hard to beat the location on the Strand a stroll from Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden and The Mall.
Sure it is not the more elite St James Park but for the London visitor, this is the heart of the action.
Our Rating
5 stars – it is hard to fault The Savoy. Its history could have been a cage but it has made a great fist of embracing its heritage to deliver a luxury Art Deco experience with important modern amenities.
What we loved
The sense of occasion is enhanced by the service, design, and aesthetic. The Savoy is truly a hotel of historic importance it is a privilege to be part of that history.
What we would change
Small maintenance issues are occasionally visible. For example, the light fittings in the Blue Lift were not finished and were damaged. But this is nitpicking.
Details
Address: Strand, London WC2R 0EZ
Website: thesavoylondon.com
LEAVE YOUR COMMENT