Review: Treebones Resort in California, USA

Leave your tent at home. Naomi Jaul finds the great American wilderness, Big Sur, has a surprising accommodation option.

It’s the panoramic, fifty-shades-of-blue view that changes my mind.

Driving up Highway One from Los Angeles, sandwiched between the rocky Santa Lucia Mountains and the expanse of the Pacific Ocean, I was a little apprehensive about staying in a yurt.

On a cliffside.

With no internet connection.

And, as my husband and I discover when shown our ‘room’, no private bathroom either.

But as we drive up to the resort’s reception, I see it: that mind-bogglingly vast horizon of shimmering sea planted under a clear sky.

And those thoughts of landslides, man-eating wildlife and nocturnal cliff-top walks to the loo disappeared as quickly as my 3G signal.

That’s the effect Treebones Resort has on even the most Type A city slicker, even ones who, ahem, have been known to reject a hotel because of an ugly bedspread and swore off camping after a single Duke of Edinburgh practice run.

The 16 round, pine-floored tents that make up the resort cling high above the highway that runs through Big Sur, a still wild area the writer Henry Miller described in 1957 as a “a region where one is always conscious of weather, of space, of grandeur and of eloquent silence."

Fortunately, thanks to conservation efforts, not much has changed along this pristine piece of coastline, where the mountains dramatically disappear into the ocean.

That’s partly why there are only a few sleeping options in Big Sur, which swing between upscale pricey inns and basic camping grounds.

Our partial ocean-view yurt, with a pillow-top queen bed and balcony facing the ocean, seemed like a happy medium at $209 for the night.

And it becomes clear as soon as we arrive that Treebones is a happy kind of place.

The friendly woman who checks us in the main yurt, where the resort’s restaurant, comfy lounge area, spotless bathrooms and showers, and wi-fi are located (hooray!), cheerfully tells us that there’s free yoga every morning at 6:00am and a breakfast spread of muesli, waffles, toast, yoghurt and fruit soon after.

She adds, with a broad smile, that the resort has its own well, everything is powered by propane-fuelled turbines, and the Californian cuisine served in the restaurant is partially sourced from their kitchen garden, which we’re welcome to wander through.

And we do, after admiring our large yurt and its clear, domed roof with sunlight streaming through, and French doors that lead out to a small balcony with a million-dollar coastal view.

The garden is filled with mustard greens, artichokes, rhubarb and dancing butterflies, and we reach it via a dirt track lined with honey-scented blossoms that fill the air with their sweet fragrance.

It leads us past loveseats, around koi ponds and under towering redwood pines where children, couples and outdoorsy types occupy their time.

Later as I sip red wine from a paper cup on our balcony, we watch one of the most incredible sunsets – I feel like we’re at an international summer camp in some alternate, far more aesthetically pleasing universe.

But no summer camp has food as good as this. My filet mignon at dinner is the best I’ve ever had; my husband’s pan-roasted chicken with polenta worthy of silent reverie; the house-baked bread doughy and moreish; the simple garden salad a revelation.

Breakfast the next day is not as fancy but just as delicious, especially when eaten on the sweeping balcony at the main yurt and after a deep night’s rest.

It seems the rustling of the yurt’s canvas proved a relaxing soundtrack for sleep.

And as for the nocturnal call of nature?

As it turned out, it gave the best – and most unexpected – view of all: a canopy of thousands of glittering stars dropping into the dark expanse of the ocean.

The Details
Treebones Resort 71895 Highway 1, Big Sur, California, +1 877 424 4787 treebonesresort.com

The IT verdict
Naomi Jaul, who paid her own way, says: “Treebones is proof that going back to basics can be the most luxurious thing of all – especially when it comes with a view."

Notes
Naomi paid $209, plus dinner with wine for two ($130)

Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

1. Easy access to good food

meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 — Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

2. Better sleep options

Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room — Sleep deeply with Novotel.

There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

3. More ways to move

woman hiking around queenstown new zealand — Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

4. Better connections

Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

5. Location is everything

Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld — Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.