How to spend 48 hours in Palm Springs, USA

Nestled in the heart of the California desert, Palm Springs is a sun-drenched oasis that blends mid-century modern design with a vibrant arts scene, luxurious spa and natural beauty.

Head two hours east of Los Angeles for a culturally intoxicating stay in this desert oasis, which has been Hollywood’s playground for a century.

Day one

9am

Wake up in your private bungalow at the Avalon Hotel, a favourite hideaway for the brightest stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age, from Joan Crawford to Errol Flynn. At a poolside table, welcome yourself to Palm Springs with a date shake, made from the fruit of the city’s namesake trees. Double down with an American classic to set the tone of the day: French toast smothered in whipped cream cheese, bananas and candied walnuts.

Take a dip in Avalon Hotel’s pool. (Image: Tara Howard)

10AM

To get your bearings, join PS Architecture Tours for a fascinating overview of the city. The mid-century modernist buildings reveal the backstory of Palm Springs’ iconic aesthetic and celebrity influence. Drive past the former homes of Frank Sinatra, Kirk Douglas, Elvis Presley and Barry Manilow, whose distinctive property was the main setting in the movie, Don’t Worry Darling. Leonardo DiCaprio’s six-bedroom house is available for holiday rentals.

Marvel at mid-century modern architecture.

1PM

The Pink Cabana is a modern take on a 1950s tennis club, set (game, match) in the courtyard of the Sands Hotel & Spa.

Sands Hotel & Spa evokes Mediterranean style with a Moroccan twist. (Image: Jaime Kowal)

Lunch is Mediterranean with a Moroccan twist, so the club sandwich is a tasty mix of turkey, za’atar-glazed bacon, saffron aioli, crushed avocado and Gruyère.

If it’s not too early for a cocktail, Pushing Buttons is adorned with an edible flower that provides a tongue-numbing sensation and changes the flavour of the drink.

Dine at Pink Cabana. (Image: Jaime Kowal)

2.30PM

Hitch a ride up the steep cliffs of Chino Canyon on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, the world’s largest rotating tram car. On the 10-minute ride, admire the views of forest and desert in Coachella Valley below. At the top, the tram station is designed like a Swiss chalet, with an observation deck, natural history museum, two documentary theatres, a cafe and bar. Consider exploring the surrounding Mount San Jacinto State Park along a 1.2-kilometre-loop nature trail.

4PM

Back at ground level, the Uptown Design District is a must-shop destination for visitors. Browse the beautiful boutiques and (not cheap) vintage stores that line North Palm Canyon Drive. Attached to an art gallery, Shag Store is great for colourful coasters, books and gifts, while Trina Turk is jammed with vibrant clothes and accessories.

6PM

On the same street, Eight4Nine, in the city’s former post office, exudes a mid-century ambience with mountain views. The West Coast menu has specialties from Alaska to Mexico, including Pacific Northwest oysters and mesquite-smoked steak, plus wines from Oregon to California.

8PM

Work off dinner with a 15-minute walk to the all-pink Trixie Motel, owned by Trixie Mattel of RuPaul ’s Drag Race fame. Open to the public, the intimate bar looks like a lounge room in Barbie’s Dreamhouse.

Trixie Motel rivals the Barbie Dreamhouse. (Image: Louise Goldsbury)

On Saturday nights, Three in the Pink is a fun and raunchy revue starring three drag queens. Get your dollar bills ready to tip the performers as they strut around the room lip-syncing to sexy songs.

Step into the vibrant Trixie Motel at night. (Image: Louise Goldsbury)

Day two

8AM

Before a morning hike, grab a coffee and pastry at the gorgeous Cafe La Jefa with mountain views. I recommend the organic chagaccino (made with chaga mushrooms, Peruvian cacao, cinnamon, monk fruit, milk and a double shot of espresso).

8.30AM

Beat the heat at Indian Canyons, where the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians built complex communities thousands of years ago. The easiest option is the two-kilometre Andreas Canyon trail to a creek, shaded by magnificent fan palms and skirted palms (which really do look like trees wearing hula skirts), unusual rock formations and more than 150 species of plants. Keep an eye out for roadrunners and rattlesnakes.

You’ll be backdropped by mountainous scenery.

10.30AM

Nip back to your hotel to shower, change and pack your swimwear for the afternoon’s activities.

11AM

Opened at the end of 2023, the Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza houses a museum with an extensive collection of Indigenous artefacts. Owned and operated by the Agua Caliente people, this new facility sits on the sacred site of the tribes’ hot mineral springs, Séc-he. (Yes, that’s why it’s called Palm Springs.) If you skipped the hike, an outdoor exhibition features full-scale replicas of the canyons where the tribe lives.

Noon

Next door is The Spa at Séc-he, which pumps these sacred waters into 22 private baths. Buy a day pass to enjoy a soothing soak, followed by relaxing in the salt cave, sauna and steam room. Take a break by the pool and order a fresh salad or poke bowl to your cabana. After lunch, settle into a reclining massage chair in the acoustic wellness lounge, pop on the headphones and zone out to a pre-recorded meditation. Among other amenities are two flotation suites, a cryotherapy chamber, four jacuzzis and 15 rooms for massages and beauty treatments.

5PM

With body and mind relaxed, get your creative juices flowing at SUPERBLOOM. This studio offers a 90-minute experience to splatter-paint an item for the ultimate personalised souvenir. Transform an old T-shirt or sneakers, or select from the range of tote bags, luggage tags and passport- holders. The founders are on hand to help beginners, bring drinks and make the class a lot of fun.

Meet the founders of SUPERBLOOM, Alexis Palomino and Chris Ramirez. (Image: Louise Goldsbury)

7PM

Boozehounds is where the locals socialise with their dogs on an open-air patio. Inside, the human-only restaurant serves Californian–Asian cuisine using locally sourced ingredients.

Find locals and their furry friends hanging out at Boozehounds.

Try the spicy Korean rice cakes, Filipino-style adobo chicken, tuna tataki or coriander salmon. Don’t miss the list of frozen cocktails on a hot evening.

Live music enhances the atmosphere on Thursdays and Sundays but may be too loud for conversation around the indoor dinner tables.

The bright interiors feel tropical.

9PM

Finish with a nightcap and the smooth sounds of the resident pianist at the Casablanca Lounge.

One of Sinatra’s old haunts in the 1970s, the bar is located inside the historic Ingleside Estate, where Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor and Salvador Dalí stayed in the 1940s. It’s an easy stroll to bed; sister property Avalon Hotel is less than 100 steps away.

Melvyn’s Restaurant & Casablanca Lounge is a popular haunt. (Image: Ingleside Estate)