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Alaskan grizzly bear encounters in the wilderness

International Traveller
One of our International Traveller readers ventures into Alaskan bear territory and lives to tell us this tale.

The most breathtaking landscape greets me on my arrival into Homer, Alaska. Beautiful summer cotton flowers against a brilliant blue sky and the backdrop of snow-capped mountains; Alaska is like a postcard image. Homer is my overnight stop before venturing out into the wilderness of Alaska. I have arranged a guided Alaskan grizzly bear tour with a small group of photographers from around the world.

Homer Alaska
Homer Harbor, Homer Alaska.

This trip has been months in preparation. Even in summer Alaska’s weather is highly unpredictable and can fall to zero degrees overnight.

 

I have packed for every contingency, even purchasing a GPS locator in case of emergencies. It’s always good to be prepared when you’re over 500 kilometres from the nearest access road and 200 kilometres by air from the nearest civilisation.

 

Hallo Bay is surrounded by just over 10,000 square kilometres of Katmai National Park on three sides and the Pacific Ocean on the other.

 

I’m a mix of emotions at this point, really excited about getting close to Grizzly bears in the wild, but equally nervous about living in the remoteness for a week with these powerful creatures.

 

I arrive at the small airstrip in Homer and am met by our pilot Jessie, and our six-seater plane. My fellow adventurers include a Scot and two Californians, all just as excited as I am about this adventure. The flight to Hallo Bay is just over an hour. It’s such a humbling experience viewing this remote landscape from above.

Hallo Bay Grizzly bear
Hallo Bay, Katmai, Alaska.

The plane lands on a desolate stretch of beach, where we meet our bear guide, Phil, who has been guiding for 20 years. We are in capable hands, but our protection is basic. No firearms; just bear spray if needed and a flare.

 

This really is bear country; five minutes into our hike we spot our first Grizzly lying in the long grass, catching some afternoon Alaskan sun. He is around 600 kilos and two metres in height when standing. Not at all concerned by our presence, he dozes in the grass – sleeping giant springs to mind.

 

Single file we continue along the trail until we reach a group of four large Grizzlies grazing in the meadow. They look our way with a half sideways disinterested glance and continue to feed. We set up our cameras about 50 metres from them. The only sound in the meadow is the machine gun stutter of camera shutters.

 

A female blonde Grizzly decides we are worth a closer look. She heads our way, slowly but deliberately. 40, 30, 20 metres. Fear at this point is non-existent. Adrenalin yes, but it’s more that I am in awe of these beautiful animals experiencing them for the first time up close.

 

Day two we pull on our waders to hike out from camp along the beach. As we head off two Grizzly bears appear on the outskirts of our camp. We walk to within 15 metres. The bears look up and assess our approach, but go back to the job of clamming on the beach. Their giant paws easily dig the clams out of the muddy sand. Razor-sharp teeth expertly pry open the shells.

Alaskan grizzly bear hallo bay
An Alaskan grizzly bear catching breakfast in Hallo Bay.

We set up our tripods on the beach. The bears look up again, more curious this time staring straight at us. A female moves closer. Phil reassures us to hold our ground.

 

I find myself holding my breath, not in fear but trying to ensure I don’t miss the shot. As if on cue, she walks within an arms reach of me before continuing to slowly walk past. I get the shot.

 

We cross the river into the meadows. A male Grizzly appears – he is immediately alerted to our presence. With the Grizzly 40 metres away from us, Phil looks to change our position to have room to exit quickly if needed. Without warning the Grizzly turns and runs away from our direction. He covers 10 metres within seconds.

 

Just as abruptly, as if he says to himself, ‘Hang on a minute, I’m the bear’, he suddenly stops mid-run, turns and charges back towards us.

 

Holding my camera, I steady myself focusing on getting the shot. Lightning-quick Phil grabs for bear spray. Confident in his actions and tone of voice he takes a step forward and firmly and loudly tells our charging male “No bear, NO" several times.

 

This Grizzly’s charge is thankfully just a bluff. He skids to a stop; his point proved and swaggers off. No spray required.

 

As a travel destination, Alaska is an amazing, challenging, beautiful place.

 

My wildlife encounters throughout the week were everything I imagined and more. An abundance of Grizzly bears, Bald eagles, foxes and wolves all live in this place.

Alaskan grizzly bear
These beautiful animals are a force to be reckoned with.

The cold and unpredictable conditions are soon forgotten once you have the opportunity to experience Alaskan wildlife up close.

 

Our last day, whilst awaiting our plane, a fox appeared on the beach.

 

I had seen this beauty a few times near the campsite but had been unable to photograph her. Just as our plane approaches and I had packed away the last of my camera gear, she walks towards us and sits down watching our departure.

 

A fitting farewell from this special place. But I know this won’t be my last visit this untamed frontier.

 

Alaska is a state full of treasures that are just waiting to be explored. Hop on over to our travel guide for everything you need to know.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Alaskan grizzly bear encounters in the wilderness - International Traveller