The up-and-coming hub of Vancouver that most travellers overlook.
Tourists in Vancouver huddle around the hubs of Gastown and Downtown, venturing into Stanley Park and Granville Island. But just a skip across the water to North Vancouver is a cool neighbourhood that flies under the radar. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in Lonsdale.
Day one
7am
Freshen up in one of the shared en suites at the historic Victorian Hotel, a hidden gem of Vancouver’s hotel scene.
Built in 1898 during Canada’s Klondike Gold Rush, The Victorian has been restored to offer travellers a unique stay similar to what you’d find in The Rocks, Sydney/Warrane.
8am
For a quick bite to eat, walk to Nemesis Coffee in Gastown and order the tiramisu croissant or a pistachio-crumbed pastry snail, with a coffee or matcha latte.
9am
Make your way to Waterfront Station and buy a SeaBus ticket for Lonsdale Quay, North Vancouver. Ferries run every 15 minutes and the ride is brief.
9:30am
Once in Lower Lonsdale, a neighbourhood off the typical tourist trail, follow the boardwalk to The Polygon Gallery, with its striking geometric facade.
A drawcard for Vancouverites, the ground floor is a store selling a ridiculously good selection of children’s toys, books and homewares.
Upstairs is the exhibition space where you will find art that pushes boundaries, such as the recent Anti-Icon: Apokalypsis – a remarkable look at identity and gender.
11am
If you’re craving a healthy lunch, at Buddha-full the menu overflows with rainbow salads, acai bowls and oat-milk smoothies. If you’re not hungry, order a ‘warm tonic’ – my choice is the 5 Moons Chai with ginger.
12:30pm
Follow the nearby colourful laneway to Wild Honey, one of a handful of vintage shops that gives Lower Lonsdale its character. Glowing with amber light, this tidy den is lined with racks of ’90s tees, jeans and leather jackets. A stroll away is Hunter & Hare, a hybrid store stocking a mix of vintage and consignment pieces, as well as small-batch homewares and jewellery from local artists. Since opening in 2019, co-founder Jo Bousaleh says she’s enjoyed watching the neighbourhood grow while still maintaining its close-knit feel. “People come here not just for the views or restaurants, but because it feels real and lived-in," Jo says. “It’s a place where you get to know the shop owners, the artists, and the community, and that’s something that makes it stand out." If you’re more into basketball caps and ice hockey jerseys, track down Secret Attic Vintage.
3:15pm
Catch a SeaBus back to the city, with a warming London ‘fog’ (earl grey latte) from Nemesis Coffee, Polygon, in hand.
3:30pm
Also making its mark on this authentic neighbourhood is Cream Pony, a doughnut shop owned by a mother-daughter team. Laced with the sweet smell of icing sugar, co-owner Ali Finn says the doughnuts are handcrafted every day, with classic flavours evoking childhood memories.
“Consistency is key for us," Ali says. “We aim to keep our menu simple and ensure that each bite is perfect." It’s a tie for the most popular flavour: the Jelly Bomb, with a real raspberry jam filling and a sugar coating, is requested as often as the Apple Fritty, a doughnut with fresh apples and cinnamon.
6pm
After freshening up, walk to Gastown’s Pourhouse, a stylish gastropub with British vibes.
The 115-year-old former boot company building gets busy, so book a table and dine on Scotch eggs and beef tartare, washing it down with a gin cocktail.
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Day two
9am
Gastown may be tourist central but look closer and you’ll discover a postcode with quirky, unexpected offerings. One such place is Cafe Kitsune, a casual coffee bar and clothing store. The franchised cafe (of which there are multiple around the world) has streamlined Japanese vibes, despite starting as a music and fashion label in Paris.
10:30am
Enjoy a spot of shopping at Out & About boutique, a high-end Japanese fashion and homewares store – the ceramics are to die for. For a more affordable souvenir, visit The Paper Hound Bookshop, a well-ordered second-hand bookstore. On the same street (W Pender), there is also Macleod’s Books, a packed emporium that will transport ’80s kids into The Never Ending Story.
12:30pm
Return to Lower Lonsdale for lunch at Jam Cafe. Famous for its comfort food, this buzzing location is big on sweet dishes, such as ‘The Fat Elvis Waffle’ with sugar-cured bacon and peanut butter drizzle.
2:30pm
If you opted for a savoury lunch, you can get a sweet fix at Earnest Ice Cream, with flavours including whiskey hazelnut and sweetcorn blueberry swirl.
3:15pm
Poke your head into the Inuit Gallery of Vancouver to admire Canadian Aboriginal sculptures, drawings and jewellery. The gallery is opposite Lonsdale Quay Market, a 1986 food hall that’s recently undergone renovations and trades crêpes, premium tea, gelato and pies.
6pm
The SeaBus runs until 1am most days, giving you plenty of time to grab dinner and cocktails from The Shipyards before returning to The Victorian Hotel.
A working shipyard between 1906 and 1992, the precinct is now a hub of restaurants, live music and artisan markets. Dine at the night market in summer, or at Tap & Barrel, where you can stay well into the night munching on fried pickles and tuna burgers.
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