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Travel Diary: Travelling solo in Canada

International Traveller

When life gives you lemons, have yourself a solo adventure across Canada, lemonade spritzer in hand, says Alissa Jenkins.

There’s something I should admit straight up — travelling solo across Canada was not exactly my original plan. But thanks to a failed relationship and the failed travel plans that went with it, it suddenly became my reality. And I’m so flipping thankful it did.

It’s summer 2016 and my, eh hem, “original plan" has come to a halt, so I’ve found myself in Vancouver with no plans, no company and no job to rush back to.

As one wise, consoling brother advises me over FaceTime, it’s the perfect concoction of circumstances to woman up and explore Canada on my own. And you know what? He’s right.

Being alone isn’t an excuse to forego seeing and doing the experiences I’d always dreamed of. I certainly wouldn’t be the first single woman to explore Canada on my own, nor will I be the last.

In fact, the travel industry has seen a dramatic rise in solo female travel across the globe over the past couple years, the Great White North included. There’s got to be good reason for that.

I swiftly pester my beloved Airbnb hosts with questions about British Columbia’s must-sees, garner countless nuggets of local-insight gold, repack my suitcase, and go on my merry [read: slightly heartbroken but ready for adventure] way around Canada’s West Coast and into the Rocky Mountains.

Venturing out of Vancouver (albeit not very far), I arrive at one of Canada’s most iconic destinations and North America’s most awarded ski resort, Whistler Blackcomb.

But as I take in those first few gulps of pine-perfumed mountain air, it becomes apparent that solo travel takes an adjustment, particularly when it’s unplanned. For all the impossible mountain vistas, towering alpine trees and seismic ski runs that I bookmark for wintertime, there’s still a dull ring of, well, loneliness.

Dangling in Whistler’s famed Peak2Peak Gondola (nothing short of an engineering feat, mind you), above a sea of cedar, spruce and fir trees that sprawl almost 2000 hectares, I feel more secure suspended in this glass bubble than in my ability to pull off an impromptu solo trip around Canada.

But that doubt doesn’t last forever.

By the second leg of the journey to Vancouver Island, I’ve met (and farewelled) new friends, moments of solitude feel easier, and I’ve found myself in the country’s sleepy surfing capital, Tofino. Home to dreamy West Coast sunsets, pristine forests and an abundance of wildlife (both on and off shore), it’s here that I meet bronzed and bubbly surfing instructor, Alina.

With the offer of an early morning lesson (when in Rome, eh?), I force myself out of bed and into a wetsuit before dawn, then nervously follow her into Tofino’s turquoise water.

As you’d expect from any athletically-challenged sad sack, I spend the next half hour paddling, wobbling, falling, paddling, wobbling, falling… Alina remains unwaveringly positive with words of encouragement, which somehow eventually permeate.

As another wave scoops over she shouts for the 976th time, “paddle, paddle, paddle!" Getting frustrated, I do just that then push up onto knees, this time sans wobble.

“You got it girl, you got it!" she yells from behind.

Now onto feet, bracing for yet another fall, I ride the wave into shore instead.

Holy smokes, it worked! I manage to get up a handful more times before the lesson is over, marking a turning point of sorts. Perhaps Alina is right; perhaps I do “got it".

I return to the mainland and travel inland towards Alberta, where more adventures await. This unaccompanied sojourn, which initially felt considerably daunting, has started to shift into something far more promising.

There’s a moment one afternoon while kayaking across Lake Revelstoke, glittering in afternoon sunlight, surrounded by snow-dusted Rocky Mountains, where I let out an almighty exhale.

Like coming up for air after weeks of holding my breath, there’s finally a sense of release, of peace, of genuinely relishing in this solo mission. The unknown is exciting, the solitude is freeing and the challenges are rewarding.

Continuing deeper into Canada’s interior, I fall deeper in love with this country, with the ever-friendly locals, with the mesmerizing wildlife, with the vibrant streams and with the immense, photogenic peaks.

The last week is spent in Banff, traipsing up and down the many mountain hikes that surround this ski town tourist mecca, along leafy boardwalks and past thundering waterfalls, scurrying after darting chipmunks along the way.

Arriving at Moraine Lake, heartbreakingly blue and framed by perfectly positioned mountains, I clamber over boulders to find a quiet place. Taking in its brilliant hue, I reflect on this improvised adventure, feeling far from the starting line, but not just in a geographical sense.

Yes, it has been daunting at times. Yes, I have questioned if I should turn back. And yes, there has been more than one instance of “what the sh!t am I doing?!" But the decision to keep going has been rewarded with experiences and discoveries so resoundingly positive, it far outweighs the initial doubt.

These discoveries have gone beyond Canada as a travel destination to myself as a person, which I couldn’t have uncovered with a plus one. I have learned new skills in problem solving, budgeting, socialising, and stepping outside my comfort zone in ways you only can once left to your own devices.

In fact, I’ve loved the experience so much that I decide to remain in Canada and move to Vancouver. The journey culminates back in VanCity where a chance meeting with a mutual friend lands me a last-minute ticket to the city’s summer socialite event, Diner En Blanc.

A colossal outdoor dinner party where everything from outfits to tablecloths must be strictly white, it’s a rollicking evening of wine, food and dancing under the glow of a rising full moon — a fitting finale to summer and my solo travels (well, for the time being).

“Hey, look at that," says a newfound friend between hiccups, pointing up to the bulbous moon, momentarily in full view between clouds. “You know what that means?"

“Everyone goes mad?" I reply.

“No Liss, it’s the changing of the tides. A shift, a new chapter."

Another shift did come, and it was a chapter more exciting than I ever could have written before my solo journey. Even better than the original plan…

 

Planning your own solo mission around Canada? Read these eight tips for solo travel in Canada before you go!

 

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.