Travel the Rideau Heritage Route

In southeastern Ontario, Kerry van der Jagt discovers an engineering marvel that is also a pristine waterway, surrounded by quaint communities and a raft of local characters; welcome to the Rideau Heritage Route.

Engineering marvels all have one thing in common; they are made to solve a problem.

While the Great Wall of China was built to keep the rabbits out (as we all learned from the television commercial) Ontario’s Rideau Canal was built to keep the Americans out, in a move that would do Donald Trump proud.

After the War of 1812, British Colonel John By was commissioned to oversee the construction of a defensible waterway that could be used in the event of an American intrusion.

Built between 1826 and 1832 the ambitious project, which connected Kingston with Ottawa through a series of canals, lakes and locks, was never used for its intended purpose – by the time the workers had finished, the threat was over.

But no matter – the canal turned out to be quite handy as a commercial artery for log barges, steamers and riverboats.

In service for more than 180 years, the Rideau is the oldest continuously operating canal in North America, its 47 locks and 24 lock stations still operated by burly men capable of winding metal cogs by hand, a technique unchanged since 1832.

Today the canal has reinvented itself as the Rideau Heritage Route, winding its way through small villages and spectacular locations alongside the 202-kilometre Rideau Canal, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site

I begin my journey in Ottawa, spending a few days exploring the Canadian capital’s Gothic Revival architecture, world-class museums and canal-side neighbourhoods, before hitting the road south.

While some travellers tackle the aquatic highway by boat or kayak, and others follow the trail by bike, I’ve opted to drive the route, in one long day, staying a few nights at either end.

Merrickville is my first stop, a time-warp of a town from the late 1700s, now boasting dozens of restored heritage buildings, excellent restaurants, pubs, walking trails, kayak rentals, artisans and antiques. And that’s just for starters.

The real attraction is the people, an arty-farty bunch of professional painters, sculptors, potters, glass blowers and silversmiths who have banded together to form their own artists’ guild.

Referred to as the ‘Jewel of the Rideau’ Merrickville is also about gourmet food. One peek at Mrs McGarrigle’s fine food shop and my car boot is soon filled with chutneys, vinaigrettes and award-winning mustards.

“I couldn’t find a mustard that was flavourful or hot enough," says owner and founder Janet Campbell, “so I started concocting my own." This is the type of go-getter attitude that defines Merrickville.

My next stop is Jones Falls, where rugged beauty meets old-school hospitality in the form of Hotel Kenney, a two-storey clapboard lodge from the 19th-century.

As a muggy mist swaddles the forested slopes, I wander down to the lake’s edge, the russet and gold autumn leaves reflected in the still water.

Tacking a circuit around the lake I pause to imagine a time when native tribal groups would hunt and fish these waters, and later, the stonemasons and pioneers, who cut and chiseled a canal out of the Canadian Shield – made of one of the hardest granites on Earth. It is these layered remnants of history that bring a road trip such as this to life.

Lunch is served in Hotel Kenney’s dining room, in a blend of classic dishes with modern styles and seasonal ingredients. I settle on a charcuterie board of olives, local meats and cheeses, salmon and artisan breads.

As much as I’d like to linger with a wine or two, it’s time to press on to Chaffey’s Lock.

A winding country road, its tarmac bristling with fallen autumn leaves, brings us to the small settlement of Chaffey’s Lock.

On the day we arrive the lock is devoid of boats, but lockmaster Rich Fowlie offers to winch the chamber open, for no other reason than he loves messing about with locks.

“95 per cent of visitors are land-based, “says Fowlie, “but the remaining 5 per cent equates to about 75 boats per day in summer."

With a hitch of his blue overalls and a few heroic turns of the wheel, the water plunges over the gate like a tsunami, leveling the water between the two sides.

“Every lock station is a national park," says Fowlie. “So next time bring your kayak and tent, and camp your way to Kingston."

After our lock lesson we sign up for a two-hour river cruise, taking the opportunity to experience the tranquil side of the waterways, watching for birds and enjoying the view of brightly painted fishing cabins and colourful Adirondack chairs on waterside porches.

Bobbing amid such splendour I finally get it: while the locks themselves may be an engineering marvel, it’s the natural beauty of the Rideau route that is the real miracle.

Details

How to get there

Air Canada flies daily from Sydney and Brisbane to Vancouver with connections to Ottawa.

Melbourne passengers fly to Sydney for connections.

When to go

The locks are open May-October, making this the most popular time for boating, swimming and fishing, but autumn is also fabulous for autumn colour.

Winter is the time for skating on the frozen Rideau Canal skateway. rideau-info.com

Where to stay

Hotel Kenney offers cottages plus lakeside, bayside and main lodge rooms.

While you’re there

Rent a boat for a day or a week. rideau-info.com
Time your trip for an autumn festival, such as the Delta Harvest Festival.
Ride a mountain bike along the 103-kilometre Cataraqui Trail.
For more information, visit Ontario Travel.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

On your way to Ontario?

Here are some of our favourite Ontario picks from our list of 100 Things to do in Canada Before You Die:

Grab a set of wheels and Track Lake Superior from Sault Ste Marie to Thunder Bay.
Check out Ottawa and Bite into a BeaverTails at Canada’s ByWard.
Ever wondered where Thousand Island dressing comes from? do a Cruise among the Palaces and Palisades of Canada’s Thousand Islands and find out.

Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

1. Easy access to good food

meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 — Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

2. Better sleep options

Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room — Sleep deeply with Novotel.

There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

3. More ways to move

woman hiking around queenstown new zealand — Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

4. Better connections

Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

5. Location is everything

Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld — Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.