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13 things to know about Churchill’s polar bears

International Traveller

Do you dream of seeing a polar bear up close and personal in the wild?  Perhaps your best option is Churchill, a tiny outpost on the shores of vast Hudson Bay, in Canada’s sub-Arctic. Here you can take a tour out into the tundra and interact with the mighty sea mammals from the safety of a specially designed buggy. But before you book, here are a few things you might want to know about the bears and the seriously isolated frontier town, too. (Steve Madgwick)

1 The why and when

Churchill is located on the relatively accessible southern end of Hudson Bay. The polar bears congregate here all year round, but especially in October and November, while they wait for the sea to freeze so they can go out onto the ice and do what polar bear do: hunt seals. The ice forms quickly here because of the fresh water flowing out of Churchill River (freezing faster than salt water).

2. Where the hell is Churchill?

Most tourists take a two-and-a-half hour charter flight from Manitoba’s capital, Winnipeg, as part of their tour. There is no road between Manitoba’s capital and Churchill, but you can take a train. The 1700-kilometre journey takes around two days.

3. The ultimate dieters

By the time a polar bear goes out onto the ice to hunt, it’s possible that they haven’t eaten virtually anything for 6 months – sometimes longer.

4. A ‘wee bit’ pregnant

Female polar bears have what’s called ‘delayed impregnation’, whereby their system suspends egg implantation (after fertilisation) until mum has gained sufficient weight to cope with the birth and cub rearing.

5. Seal lovers, skip this part!

Churchill’s polar bears head out to hunt (not co-incidentally) just as the ringed seal birthing season begins. It is estimated that during a hunting season, a single polar bear will gorge on up to 40 seals.

6. How many bears?

Due to the logistical challenges (like tracking the nomadic mammals in -50 degree Celcius temperatures over hundreds of thousands of square kilometres) it’s difficult to nail down just how many polar bears call Hudson Bay home. Estimates range from 800 to 1000 bears.

7. Town bears

The bears often wander into Churchill because it’s part of their natural path. Authorities first try to scare the bears with ‘hazing’ – loud noises such as gunshots – followed possibly by rubber bullets if this doesn’t work. Members of Churchill’s Polar Bear Alert Program patrol regularly, responding to calls on the 675-BEAR hotline. In peak season, they might deal with five calls a day.

8. Repeat offenders

When bears simply refuse to take the hint, the next step is relocation. They will either be tranquilised or lured into a trap and then relocated. However, some of them have been known to find their way back from hundreds of kilometres away. The last, somewhat controversial option is a stint in the town’s holding facility, a former military hangar, infamously known as ‘bear jail’, where the animals can be held for extended periods.

9. Just plain hungry

Most bear-human encounters in town come down to the mammals’ ravenous appetite. Back when Churchill used to incinerate its garbage, locals reported seeing bears feasting on burning refuse.

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10. How does a bear smell?

Pretty well, actually. One story in circulation tells the tale of a bear that sensed some beluga whales were stuck in the ice from several kilometres away. Suffice to say it was either a buffet or bloodbath, depending on your point of view.

11. If a polar bear and a grizzly got into a fight…

Polar bears, the earth’s largest sea mammals, win hands down. They can weigh as much as 720kg, substantially larger than your average grizzly. The two species have been known to get intimate, with their hybrid offspring known as the Pizzly or Grolar.

12. United nations of the Tundra

Churchill is not only a crossroads for wildlife, but it is also shared among a number of First Nations peoples as well. Directly north are the Inuit, and the Cree and Dene also inhabit and hunt here too. Polar bears are one of the few protected animals in Manitoba, but the Inuit have a right to hunt a certain number in Nunavut, the territory to the north that extends into the Arctic proper.

13. And if a bear attacks?

The town’s ‘bear guards’ (private contractors who do as the name advertises) say showing great confidence – chest out and shoulders up – can help out-fox the animal in a face-to-face encounter. In reality, just don’t get yourself into the situation because if they want you, well…



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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.