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Whistler sans snow: why summer is the best time to visit

International Traveller
We all know Whistler Blackcomb is synonymous with snow and slopes, but what happens to Canada’s best-known winter wonderland once the ice melts?

Three million — that’s more than the entire population of Brisbane, but still less than the number of visitors who frequent Canada’s Whistler Blackcomb resort every year. While North America’s number one ski resort sees a similar share of this gargantuan figure across winter and summer, it’s taken a while for Australians to appreciate the appeal of British Columbia’s world-renowned slopes sans snow. That is, until now.

Summer is where it’s at

“Compared to 10 years ago, the number of Australian visitors in the summer has quadrupled, while winter has more than doubled," says Tourism Whistler’s Director of Market Development, Shawna Lang, as we follow the snaking path through Whistler Village.

Hiking to Cheakamus Lake, Whistler.
Hiking through ancient cedars to Cheakamus Lake — another popular Whistler activity during summer (photo: Mike Crane).

“Now, of the annual Australian room nights [that’s industry speak for local accommodation booked by Aussies], 40 per cent are during the summer and 60 per cent are during the ski season," she adds, as I look around a distinctly different Whistler. Where I’m accustomed to seeing bars brimming with beanie-wearing snow bunnies and icicled racks crammed with snowboards and skis, are now tanned travellers and robust mountain bikes, both glistening in the hot sun. As Shawna points out, it’s these throngs of mountain bikers that now make up the bulk of Aussies visiting this time of year.

Follow the bike trails

Whistler Bike Park, Canada.
Whistler Bike Park, which is seeing an increasing number of younger Australian visitors coming to hit the bike trails (photo: Justa Jeskova).

“While we see many retirees on tour in summer, there are an increasing number of younger Australian visitors coming here to hit the bike trails." As neither a retiree nor a daredevil nut job (seriously, some of the descents on Whistler’s many bike trails are horrifying), what is there to do here in summer for those who don’t fit into either category? Well, as I find out over the coming days, lots.

Adventure, plus

To begin my Whistler summer experience, today I’ve opted for one of the resort’s more mellow adventure activities; ziplining. I say mellow because there’s no degree of skill required (unlike biking), but it does still entail a helmet and adrenaline rush as we arrive atop Cougar Mountain for the first leap of faith into this aerial tree course.

 

Run by The Adventure GroupSuperfly   Ziplines is merely one of a dozen outdoor pursuits offered here throughout summer, alongside whitewater rafting, mountain biking, stand-up paddle boarding, canoeing, jet boating, quad biking, bungee jumping… But back to ziplining; strapped into a harness and an unnervingly simple metal contraption that sits over a kilometre-long line, our guide counts down from three before pushing the harness forward, launching me more than 150 metres above a sea of ancient cedars, spiking up from below.

Alpine hiking on Whistler Mountain, Canada.
A stunning alpine hike on Whistler Mountain — one of many popular activities during summer (photo: Mike Crane).

Remind me, why didn’t I choose to chill out at the Scandinave Spa instead (which, by the way, is open year-round)? Initial stomach flips and screams out of the way, the ride quickly proves a thrilling way to see Whistler’s dense backcountry, to inhale that crisp mountain air, to feel the summer sun on your skin, all with minimal exertion. Happily, it’s only the first of four different ziplines included in the tour (each varying in length, height, and speed), connected by a network of short walks and boardwalks.

Riding high

As soon as we’re back on land again, we’re swiftly suspended in the air again, taking in brilliant 360-degree views from the iconic Peak 2 Peak Gondola.

 

Connecting the peaks of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, this glass-walled capsule carries travellers over four kilometres between summits, making for an incomprehensibly scenic transfer to the newly renovated Rendezvous Lodge atop Blackcomb.

 

While the lodge houses an array of lunch options, we walk through to the sophisticated Christine’s on Blackcomb restaurant. Think wide glass windows, tasteful timber and copper details, and a contemporary Canadian menu that’s focused on ethically sourced ingredients.

 

But it’s not just the perfectly seared scallops that diners come for — here you’re also treated to front row seats to see marmots sunbathing on the rocks below. In fact, it was the whistling calls that these furry little guys make to one another that inspired the name of the resort back in the 1960s.

Wildlife a-plenty

Black bears in Whistler, Canada.
Summer is also prime time to spot black bears (photo: Brad Doerksen and Whistler Photo Safaris).

Marmots aren’t the only local wildlife to come out and play this time of year; summer is also prime time to spot black bears.

 

Unlike winter when they’re in the depths of hibernation, summer sees these beautiful beasts saunter out of the alpine woods to feed on grasses and wildflowers that blanket Whistler’s would-be ski runs.

 

There are a number of operators that offer bear-watching experiences in the area, but our pick is Whistler Photo Safaris — taking animal lovers on personalised safaris around the otherwise inaccessible, Whistler Olympic Park.

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Fresh, clean eats

After lunching on divine shareables from barbecued duck salad to beef short ribs (which, FYI, were charred for a casual 48 hours), this still isn’t even the pinnacle of Whistler’s food scene. Well, at least not in the physical sense.

 

The afternoon is spent making our way to a distinctly Whistler dinner experience by the name of Salmon Bake.  Run by Canadian Wilderness Adventures, the venture takes you on an ATV (quad bike) tour a couple of kilometres up Blackcomb to Crystal Hut; perfectly positioned to take in what are arguably the best views of British Columbia’s most iconic mountaintops.

 

Then to top it off, you’re served maple glazed wild BC salmon (alongside local vegetables). And if that wasn’t Whistler enough, the return ride back includes a cameo appearance of a black bear, perched on a grassy knoll we drive past, nonchalantly munching on wildflowers. Oh Canada!

 

Covered in dust, filled with salmon, and high on alpine air, I retire to the Fairmont Chateau Whistler, joining a growing number of Aussies choosing summer over winter in Whistler. And for good reason.

For more on ethical and sustainable travel and wildlife experiences visit our Conscious Traveller section.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Whistler sans snow: Why summer may just be the best time to visit