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Review: Ham Yard Hotel, London

International Traveller

Elliott Barsby finds respite from the hustle of London’s streets in an oasis of sophistication with a dash of British eccentricity.

We’ve all dreamt of owning a collection of properties across the globe.

I would have a house by the beach in Sydney, a ski lodge in the Swiss Alps, an apartment overlooking Central Park in New York, and, of course, a lovely London terrace.

Unfortunately my property portfolio isn’t quite there yet (I’m still working on the Sydney house), so on this trip to London I had to settle for a night at Ham Yard Hotel. But don’t start feeling sorry for me just yet.

Set in trendy Soho and mere moments from well-known tourist hot spots (Piccadilly, Trafalgar Square, the theatre district, Oxford Circus), Ham Yard Hotel is perfectly located for both exploring this great city as well as escaping it.

It’s a cold and wet afternoon when I arrive (I’m in London, so no surprises there) but my reception could not be warmer; I am greeted by smiling faces and my check-in is a breeze.

I’m offered a quick tour by Cornell, the chatty concierge, who leads me straight to his favourite room: the library, an elegant and inviting space just off reception.

With an assortment of comfy chairs and sofas, ceiling-high shelves packed with carefully selected books (the type you actually want to read), and a cleverly concealed help-yourself honesty bar, I can’t wait to drop my bags off and come straight back here for the afternoon. My plans to explore the British Museum can wait.

Continuing the tour my initial take is that I’ve wandered into a very colourful, very funky art gallery. To a certain extent this is true.

Design director (and co-owner of the hotel) Kit Kemp has used the establishment as a canvas on which to flex her creative muscle with the spaces and rooms carefully filled with quality furniture and art from around the world. With her signature use of colour and texture, Kemp has created an environment that is sophisticated but also doesn’t take itself too seriously. All very British, I feel.

I eventually make it up to my room, one of 91 individually designed bedrooms and suites. Simple and elegant, it feels more like home than a posh hotel. A short hallway leads to a very inviting queen-sized bed, all white but for the splash of red from a couple of cushions.

The soft and subtle floral pattern on the curtains brings a warmth to the room. Floor-to-ceiling warehouse-style windows fill it with light and make the space feel even larger.

Looking down through the rain-speckled windows I spot the street sign on the brick wall opposite – Ham Yard, W1, City of Westminster.

The bathroom is sleek and stylish with dark polished granite, dual vanity, and a very large walk-in shower. God is in the detail, with even the unique amenities designed by Kit Kemp, including the lavender and eucalyptus pillow, linen and room mist carefully left beside the bed after the evening turn down service.

I head down to the Ham Yard restaurant and bar, which is buzzing with beautiful people, the type that look as if they’re genuinely having fun and aren’t just here because it’s fashionable. With endless dining establishments on the nearby Soho streets (the likes of Quo Vadis, Bocca di Lupo, Nopi) it’s a testament to the hotel that it can draw such a trendsetting crowd.

I order a gin and tonic (or two) and nibble on a number of small plates from the bar menu, such as rabbit sausage roll with spicy harissa mayonnaise, and melt-in-your-mouth slow roasted pork sliders.

It’s the shared public spaces that really bring the hotel to life. Downstairs, a 190-seat cinema opens to a Bollywood-style spill-out area complete with vintage movie posters. Opposite the theatre is the Dive Bar, decked out in fabulous neon lights that wouldn’t look out of place in Vegas.

But my favourite area of the hotel is, without doubt, The Croc, an original 1950s bowling alley that was manufactured by the iconic Brunswick company and imported from Texas. A collection of retro bowling balls and shoes (collected from eBay over a number of years) are artistically arranged in front of four bowling lanes, with yet another bar tucked to the side serving refreshments. I spend the rest of the night bowling and chatting with two locals who are catching up at the hotel over a few beers and frames.

After my stay I decide that I would be happy to put the London addition to my dream property portfolio on hold. Ham Yard Hotel already feels like a home away from home, although having my own bowling alley isn’t quite in reach just yet. But one can still dream.

Details

Ham Yard hotel
1 Ham Yard, London, W1D 7DT; firmdalehotels.com

The IT Verdict

  • Location = 9/10
    Brilliantly positioned in the heart of Soho and mere moments from the usual London hot spots.
  • Style/character = 10/10
    Kit Kemp, take a bow.
  • Service = 8/10
    The attentive and knowledgeable staff were only ever too pleased to help.
  • Rooms = 9/10
    Elegant and inviting, I couldn’t have asked for more. Except perhaps a bath.
  • Food and drink = 8/10
    Sophisticated fare showcasing the best of British produce.
  • Value for money = 7/10
    We paid $620 for the night for a Superior Room, including breakfast.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Review: Ham Yard Hotel, London - International Traveller