Review: Palacio Ramalhete, Lisbon, Portugal

Staying in an old urban palace is the most elegant way to spend a weekend in Lisbon, finds Susan Gough Henly.

When our taxi delivers us to the Palacio Ramalhete in the heart of Lisbon, we’re not sure if we have the correct address. There’s no grand hotel entrance and it takes us a while to find the small sign and buzzer to ring. It is nothing if not discreet and feels more like staying in the home of a wealthy family than a boutique hotel: dating back to the 18th century, it was built as an urban palace. There’s a click and we push open the heavy wooden door into a cool stone entrance area. As we lug our bags up the large steps a friendly young woman comes down to give us a hand.

The living quarters of the Palacio Ramalhete, Lisbon, Portugal.

We deal with formalities at the small elegant reception desk before she takes us up to the Dove Room on the second floor, telling us it’s her favourite – and we soon see why. Expansive and airy, it features polished wooden floorboards and hand-painted Portuguese blue-and-white tiles. There’s a comfy king-size bed, stylish couch and coffee table as well as a fireplace and desk. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer peeks of the Tagus River while the narrow bathroom has more antique tiles and a gorgeous painting of a voluptuous young woman on the shower screen.

One of the bedrooms of the Palacio Ramalhete, Lisbon, Portugal.

It’s a hot day and we’ve been rushing around Lisbon, so we spend the afternoon relaxing beside the bijou pool on the rooftop deck. At dusk, we enjoy sundowners on another fragrant terrace, which is draped with bougainvillea and potted citrus trees. After a sublime sleep in, there’s juice and coffee, meats and cheeses and a bevy of Portuguese pastries to enjoy either in the breakfast room (which converts to a bar at night) or outside in several different courtyard nooks.

That’s one of the great charms of Palacio Ramalhete. There are so many serene public spaces, including three beautifully appointed lounge rooms with couches that beg for you to sink into them and enjoy the excellent selection of books and magazines, just like in the home of a well-travelled friend.

Details:

PALACIO RAMALHETE

Rua das Janelas Verdes, 92

1200-692 Lisbon, Portugal; palacio-ramalhete.com

THE IT VERDICT

A real charmer chock-full of old-school Portuguese style, with many interesting spaces to enjoy and a rooftop pool that’s a boon in summer.

LOCATION: 8 / 10 The hotel is in the quiet, untouristy Janelas Verdes district, not far from the Tagus River. It’s a little out of the way of the main Lisbon attractions in Chiado, Bairro Alto and Alfama.

STYLE/CHARACTER: 9 / 10 It feels like you are staying in an elegant home, which isn’t too far from the truth.

SERVICE: 9 / 10 Friendly and professional bilingual staff are happy to make restaurant bookings and deliver drinks to the poolside terrace.

ROOMS: 9 / 10 Each of the 16 bedrooms is beautifully distinctive, from the expansive Dove Room, converted from the family chapel, to the Old Kitchen Suite with its walk-in fireplace. There are also more modern sun-drenched pool suites.

FOOD AND DRINK: 7 / 10 A cosy bar area serves evening drinks and converts to a breakfast room with a generous buffet. Simple salads and burgers are also offered in the evenings.

VALUE FOR MONEY: 9 / 10 We paid $375 for the Dove Room: and it delivered a lot of bang for the buck.

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK.

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius — A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris — People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.