How to spend a week in Biarritz, France

Nice, Cannes and the rest of the Cote d’Azur get most of the spotlight when it comes to summering in France, but this beachy surf town on the Basque Coast is another way to soak in the sun (and beaches and amazing French food!)

Biarritz boasts a unique mix of culture and energy. There’s the fantastic French food and wine, but also the culinary influences of Spain and regional Basque tastes. There’s the elegant atmosphere of a French coastal retreat, mixed with the laid-back atmosphere of a surf town.

Day 1

Check-in at Regina Experimental

The Regina Experimental is a grand, historic hotel. One look at the white-washed, ornate exterior will tell you that. The hotel first welcomed guests in 1907, serving as a playground for the fashionable and wealthy through the Roaring Twenties.

The white-washed rooms have modern furniture with colourful and bold patterns.

The occupation of the Nazis and the crash of Wall Street, among other things, ushered in less happy years for the hotel. But more recently it’s restored to its former glory – with a new playful, funky twist.

The Regina Experimental had a makeover with a quirky twist.

The central lobby space is decked with colourful, bold patterns and a wide array of modern furniture for lounging about. Topped with a huge glass roof, the hotel is filled with light and, on Friday and Saturday evenings, the sounds of the piano.

There’s a timeless feel from the moment you enter the grand lobby.

The staff is incredibly warm, helpful and friendly. Book an ocean-view room and enjoy looking out over the iconic Biarritz lighthouse from your balcony.

See the iconic Biarritz lighthouse from your balcony.

Dinner at Frenchie

After you get settled in (and perhaps take one of the many coastal walks just outside the hotel’s front door) don’t miss dinner at Frenchie. The patio is a great place to enjoy a pre-dinner drink and watch the sunset.

Bask in local Basque flavours at Frenchie.

Like the hotel, the experience at Frenchie is deeply rooted in the region, while infusing its own playful personality. Local Basque flavours, such as Espelette chilli pepper, Gascon black pork and Basque sheep cheese, tie the meal together from start to finish. I’m still daydreaming about the monkfish, doused with shellfish and herring roe beurre blanc and dotted with sweet passion fruit gel.

Frenchie serves up dishes that highlight regional fare.

Tip: One of the best times to visit Biarritz is in September when the summer crowds have lessened, but the weather is just as lovely. Plus, this is typically a great month for the swells, if you are a surfer.

Day 2

Explore the heart of Biarritz

Head into the heart of Biarritz to explore. One of Biarritz’s free shuttles stops just outside the hotel.

Sleep in elegance right next to the ocean at Hôtel du Palais.

Alternatively, the walk is an easy 15 minutes along the coast, where you’ll be able to pass the famous, imposing Hôtel du Palais, which Napoleon III built during 1855 for his wife.

Take a dip in the pool before or after an ocean sojourn.

In town, check out Fadead Vintage for some cool shopping and indulge in a long lunch at Le Pim’pi Bistrot, for a classic, French bistro experience.

Unique treats from Maison Adam will satisfy every kind of sweet tooth.

For sweet treats, stop at Maison Adam. Walk out to Rocher de la Vierge, a rocky outcrop which makes you feel like you are in the middle of the sea – the perfect place to be for sunset.

Swim or walk Rocher de la Vierge for picturesque views of the bay. (Image: Getty/Wirestock)

Day 3

Enjoy Biarritz’s famous beaches

Biarritz is best known for its beaches and surf culture, so you’ll have plenty of choices of where to soak up the sun.

Hang 10 at the beaches in Biarritz. (Image: Bruno Chanet/Regional Tourism Committee of New Aquitaine)

Plage du Port Vieux (Old Port Beach) is a small beach tucked in a cove – perfect for being in the middle of all the action, while still having quick access to a cocktail.

Or enjoy a refreshing swim in Port Vieux beach. (Image: Getty/Wirestock)

Marinella Beach (or really any of the beaches further north in Anglet) provides a never-ending sandy horizon and plenty of room to spread out. You can even take a surf lesson if you get tired of dozing on the sand.

Spend a day lazing on one of the many sandy beaches. (Image: Bruno Chanet/Regional Tourism Committee of New Aquitaine)

Sample Biarritz’s culinary scene

There are so many fabulous restaurants in town that it is difficult to narrow it down. For most, having a reservation is always a good idea. Aiete is a small and unassuming space, so when the food hits the table, it really hits above its weight, packed with big and bold flavours.

Dine on seasonal fare at an affordable price.

AHPE is a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick (meaning: incredible food at an affordable price) that focuses on seasonal fare, with a flair for fermentation.

The menu at Aiete embodies the culinary riches of Biarritz.

Day 4

Check in to Le Garage

Just across the street from Regina Experimental, the hotel’s sister property Le Garage fully taps into the retro, funky heartbeat of Biarritz. The building has past lives as an aero club and an automobile garage for vintage cars.

The retro-style hotel Le Garage is fringed by a serene pool.

I highly recommend ordering a wide selection of small plates (especially the roasted carrots with carrot hummus) and lounging by the pool. There’s a whole menu for gin and tonics – I went with the elderflower tonic and local gin.

Take in tranquil views of the surrounding landscape.

Tapas bar

If you want to take the party elsewhere, head to Le Bar Jean, where you can sample tapas, pintxos and paella until very late at night.

Day 5

Visit an underwater wine cellar

If you want to see the surrounding Basque coast, there’s no better way than driving to Egiategia, a unique underwater wine cellar in Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Egiategia is renowned for underwater winemaking.

Just a thirty-minute drive from Biarritz, this winery harnesses the power of the ocean – its pressure, darkness, consistent temperature and rocking motion – to distil its wines.

Pull up a chair to feast on incredible seafood at Ostalamer.

On the way back, book dinner at Ostalamer or Heteroclito, both known for their incredible seafood and fantastic ocean views.

Have a sundowner at Heteroclito while you take in the ocean views.

Day 6

Snack at a local market

Today is your last chance to sample all of the local dishes you haven’t had a chance to taste yet. Take your time wandering around Les Halles de Biarritz, a covered market with every manner of fish, meat, cheese, bread and snacks for sale.

Dinner at Cheri Bibi

Be sure to make a reservation in advance to sample this poster child for Biarritz cool. It’s always packed with a very trendy-looking crowd, who flock for their simple, fresh, rotating menu and laid-back environment.

Relish a night in with dinner at Cheri Bibi.

The prices are shockingly good for this level of quality. And you can pick your own bottle from the wine shop side of the restaurant.

Pick your own bottle from their signature wines.