7 ways to see Vienna like a true 20th-century artist

The fin-de-siècle period was an incredible time for modern art, design and architecture in Vienna and its zeitgeist is very much alive today. The city celebrates Viennese Modernism in 2018, 100 years on from the death of four of its key players, and here’s how you can too, writes Imogen Eveson.

At the end of last year, the Vienna Tourist Board created a series of posters for its celebration of Viennese Modernism in 2018 that was deemed NSFW for the London Underground and German bus stops. The offending images were nudes by Egon Schiele, the Austrian expressionist who helped define one of Europe’s great 20^th-century art movements with paintings and drawings that still look contemporary – and apparently too provocative – today. The tourist board’s clever riposte was to censor the works with the words ‘SORRY, 100 years old but still too daring today’, adding the tease ‘see it all in Vienna!’. Schiele died in 1918 at the age of just 28, alongside three other key protagonists of Viennese Modernism: symbolist painter Gustav Klimt, ‘universal’ artist Koloman Moser and architect Otto Wagner. The city is taking this watershed moment to shine a spotlight on its remarkable era of visionary artists and ideas. Here are some ways you can experience it.

1. Take a Wiener walk

Vienna was once the capital of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire: it had over 53 million subjects across 15 nations, and all the wealth and grandeur to prove it. The Habsburg Monarchy crumbled at the end of the First World War, but luckily the Imperial architecture didn’t, and a wander around the compact city centre today reveals baroque and neoclassical masterpieces at every turn. But what makes the cityscape even more beguiling is the modernist buildings sprinkled liberally among it. Otto Wagner’s Austrian Postal Savings Bank building, for instance, has a stone, concrete, glass, wood and metal composition that looks contemporary today. It is in stark contrast to the former Imperial and Royal War Ministry headquarters opposite: a neoclassical building which – surprisingly – was completed one year after Wagner’s, in 1913. Book a modernism-focused walking tour with Travelcurator Vienna or discover for yourself.

2. Art Nouveau and eats

You can bookend a visit to three of Vienna’s most important works of architecture with a stroll through the Naschmarkt. With its name taken from the German ‘to nibble’, this famous market is home to around 120 stands and restaurants offering everything from Viennese to Vietnamese fare. Start by visiting the gorgeous, golden-domed Secession building on the fringe of the inner city, then graze your way to the colourful Majolica House and its shimmering neighbour – two Art Nouveau beauties designed by Otto Wagner. All three shocked and provoked conservative circles when they were unveiled at the end of the 19th century. From here, hop on the metro back to the centre at Kettenbrückengasse; one of Wagner’s ornate Stadtbahn designs (his Karlplatz design, with its sunflower pattern, is perhaps most elegant).

3. Get Loos

When in 1909, architect Adolf Loos unveiled his strikingly unornamented new building for tailors Goldman & Salatsch – now known as Looshaus – opposite the Imperial Palace, it caused a scandal, and Emperor Franz Joseph was famously displeased. A working bank today, you can still take a peek inside the ground floor. But for a somewhat more immersive architectural experience, visit the Loos-designed American Bar nearby. This shoebox-sized saloon is decked out in mahogany, onyx and marble and is a surefire way for you to soak up the zeitgeist of Wiener Moderne (visit in the afternoon when it’s not as crowded and smoky – smoking is still permitted in some restaurants and bars, including this one, in Austria).

4. Peruse modernist museums

Visitors to Vienna might find themselves overwhelmingly spoiled for choice when it comes to galleries and museums, and so the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is a fantastic place to start. An art complex near the Imperial Palace (in its former stables), its jewel is the Leopold Museum, which holds the world’s largest collection of works by Egon Schiele as well as many more works of art from the fin de siècle. Like many Vienna museums this year, the Leopold is hosting special exhibitions to celebrate the city’s year of modernism, including Egon Schiele: The Jubilee Show. The MQ is also a popular hang-out spot, with restaurants, cafes and bars, and comes to life especially during summer. Take the chance while you’re here to explore the trendy 7^th district, which borders the MQ. Visitors following in the footsteps of Viennese Modernism can’t leave the city without seeing Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss in the flesh. Head across town to the Belvedere for the pleasure.

5. Sip the coffee culture

Hipster coffee culture was flourishing in Vienna long before it was in Melbourne. At the turn of the 20^th century, Vienna was transforming into the artistic and intellectual centre of the world, thanks in part to the intellectuals, artists, architects, writers, musicians, designers and more who crossed paths in the city’s salons and coffeehouses. Café Museum, which dates from 1899, was one of the coolest haunts in town. A two-minute walk from the Secession building, its patrons included Klimt, Schiele, Wagner and Loos, who designed the original interior. Today, it celebrates its history while exuding a slightly more classic Viennese vibe. Here’s your chance to try traditional-style coffee – including a Wiener Melange (half espresso, half hot frothy milk), Salon Einspänner (double espresso topped with whipped cream) or simply a Kleiner Schwarzer (a single espresso). All come served with a customary glass of water. For your long blacks and your soy flat whites, head to Erich in the city’s 7th district. It has a great contemporary breakfast, lunch and dinner menu (for after you’ve had your fill of Wiener schnitzel of course) and a back dining space that, painted gold, feels like the inside of a Klimt painting.

6. A spot of Secession shopping

If you fancy bringing home a Viennese Modernism souvenir that’s a little more inspired than a Klimt fridge magnet, then book a Shopping with Lucie! tour. Lucie Lamster Thury, a fun and engaging former New York stylist, steers you away from the main drag to some of Vienna’s best shops and boutiques that you might not discover otherwise. A modernism-themed tour includes stops at the historic Wiener Silber Manufactur, which has been in the silver game since 1882 and still reproduces original designs from the likes of Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser (a set of cutlery has never looked so interesting); and Österreichische Werkstätten, a lifestyle store that has a Wiener Werkstätte and Art Nouveau focus.

Also, for (high-end) Vienna Modernism-inspired fashion, check out Petar Petrov (available at concept store PARK in the 7th), who cites the era as his constant inspiration. Australian skincare brand Aesop recently opened its first Austrian store in Vienna’s 1st district, and its interior design is based on the work of 20^th-century architects like Loos, and the atmosphere of old Viennese coffeehouses.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

7. Hotel Topazz: Eat, sleep and breathe modernism

A member of Design Hotels, Hotel Topazz in Vienna’s 1st district is an homage to Viennese Modernism. Its interior design takes its cue from the Wiener Werkstätte (an offshoot of the Vienna Secession art movement), which promoted the idea of Gesamtkunstwerk, or, total work of art – elevating everyday objects to art forms. Bedrooms feature wallpaper designed by Koloman Moser, a co-founder of the Wiener Werkstätte who is widely credited as being the world’s first graphic designer. Their oval windows are fitted with a divan bed inspired by Biedermeier furniture so you can lie back and watch the old city centre go by below you. Hotel Topazz’s modern credentials carry through to the 21st century: it’s also the area’s first green upscale hotel.

Visit Viennese Modernism 2018 for more information.

Getting there: Thai Airways flies to Vienna from Australia via Bangkok.

Temperatures are soaring this summer, breaking records across Europe and the UK.

Euro summer is a feeling like no other. But when a heatwave hits? The dream trip quickly turns into a sweaty mess. Extreme heat is sweeping Europe and the UK this week, with record-high temperatures impacting travel plans across the continent.

And while Australian summers are typically hotter in absolute temperature, many European cities aren’t equipped for high temperatures, resulting in unbearable weather.

Why is it so hot in Europe?

Signs of a hot summer loomed in May, when the mercury hit unprecedented spring highs. Now, extreme high temperature warning alerts have been issued in countries such as Spain, Italy, France, England, the Netherlands and Germany.

France saw its hottest day on record on Wednesday, with an average temperature of 30°C across the day and night. This surpasses the average temperature for June, which is 15°C to 25°C. Dozens of people have died, including 40 from drowning.

In Spain, 212 deaths have been linked to the heatwave.

The UK recorded its hottest June day ever on Wednesday with temperatures soaring to 36.1°C. In an article published by the Met Office – the UK’s national meteorological service – Professor Stephen Belcher CBE, Met Office Chief Scientist, shared his concerns about June’s heat. “To see temperatures like this in the UK in June is sobering. Events like this bring home the implications of climate change, with very high temperatures and humidity bringing significant health implications from heat stress, as well as impacts to a range of sectors such as transport, energy and water supply,” he said.

Heatwaves are becoming increasingly common in Europe and the UK, neither of which is prepared for such extremes. The World Meteorological Organization reported that in 2025, at least 95% of Europe experienced above-average annual temperatures and that the continent was heating up twice as fast as the global average.

How travel is impacted

A pharmacy sign displaying 40 degrees Celcius — A pharmacy broadcasting local weather data. (Credit: Getty/Dragoncello)

During a heatwave, power grids, water systems and transport networks can be affected, resulting in disrupted itineraries for travellers. In France, power outages have left thousands without electricity and early closures have been implemented for two of Paris’s biggest attractions, the Eiffel Tower (early afternoon rather than late at night) and the Louvre (two hours early). Eurostar cancelled its London to Paris and Paris to London services from the 22nd to the 25th, and major UK rail companies have been advising travellers to avoid using trains where possible, or to travel during early hours.

If a heatwave is predicted, being flexible with your itinerary and having fully refundable/changeable tickets is key, as extreme heat can force the cancellation of outdoor activities, impact rail and flight services and change the opening hours of sites and eateries.

Why does summer in Europe often feel hotter than summer in Australia?

people swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris — People swimming in the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris to cool off. (Credit: Rachael Thompson)

With some of the highest UV levels in the world, Australians are no strangers to the heat, adapting well to intense weather. But our infrastructure is largely equipped to withstand soaring temperatures with climate-responsive passive design, refrigerated air conditioning or evaporative coolers, as well as swimming spots aplenty.

Buildings in Northern and Western Europe and the UK, however, are constructed to retain heat and handle frosty winters. The lack of universal air conditioning means it generally feels hotter even though the temperature on your app might not look it. During a heatwave, it can feel like you’re in a sauna as cities act like heat traps.

How to stay cool and prepare for another heatwave

Relief is expected across Europe and the UK later this week, but more heatwaves are still possible in the coming months. Summer heat typically peaks in July and August.

Public transport often doesn’t have air conditioning, and buses in particular can be swelteringly hot. If you’re heading outside or your accommodation has no air conditioning, it’s worth buying a spray bottle and a handheld fan from a pharmacy or tourist stand. Check ahead of time if restaurants and cafes have air conditioning and make a booking in advance. The highest temperatures typically hit between 3pm and 6pm, so aim to head outdoors outside of these hours.

Rising temperatures invite travellers to enter a more intentional era of seeing the world. Now more than ever is the time to embrace lower-impact “coolcations” and off-season getaways.