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Five signs that you’ve discovered Bali’s surfing Nirvana

Craig Tansley Craig Tansley
The perfect wave still exists in Bali, but these days you’ll be sharing it with territorial locals and surfers from all over the world. Relax though, the ultimate Indonesian surf resort is still out there – it’s called Nihi Sumba Island. Here’s how you know you’ve found the Holy Grail of surfing…

It’s still like surfing in the ’60s or ’70s

Bali surfing paradise beach Nihi Sumba Island
Stunning views of the Bali surf.

To anyone who ever thought the spirit of surf adventure died out around 1980… think again. Nihi Sumba is the only resort on the island of Sumba (an island known for its animistic traditions). There are still waves here that have never been surfed and no other sets of surfers around you for 200 kilometres in every direction. Resort rules stipulate a maximum of 10 surfers a day are permitted (if you don’t want to miss out, book ahead) to surf Nihi Sumba Island’s legendary left-hand point break – considered one of Indonesia’s top-five-rated waves.

If you’re not a surfer you’ll still never be bored

Bali surfing paradise beach Nihi Sumba Island
Enjoy a nice stroll on the beach at the end of the day and soak up the remaining sunlight.

Surf resorts traditionally ignore non-surfers and while Nihi Sumba Island began its life like this, things changed when it was taken over by billionaire fashion mogul Chris and hotelier James McBride in 2012. Now there are as many non-surfers here as there are surfers, in pursuit of the resort’s earthly pleasures: there’s an equestrian centre, so you can canter along the beach at sunset; a day spa built on its own private bay reachable only on foot or by 4WD; there’s hiking, mountain biking, village tours… you name it. Hell, there’s even a chocolate factory on site.

There’s a sunset bar right on the beach, and a restaurant with sand on the floor

Bali surfing paradise beach Nihi Sumba Island
When the colours fade, move to the Ombak (meaning ‘wave front’) restaurant.

What good are perfect waves without the right bar to boast about them in? There’s no better surf bar on Earth than the Boathouse. Built among rocks on the beach, surfers wash in straight from the waves to its entrance, and a fire is lit each night outside to celebrate the sunset across the sea. When the colours fade, move upstairs to the Ombak (meaning ‘wave front’) restaurant; it’s open-air, has a sandy floor and a deck cantilevered over the ocean.

The local community and Sumba Foundation

Ninety per cent of Nihi Sumba Island’s staff members are from the local area – it is the largest employer on the island. Ride a horse, surf a wave, go paddle-boarding or take a village tour and you’ll find the person in charge of you is likely a local. So are the people cooking your gourmet meals, and waiting with your bill at the front-office. Nihi Sumba Island also supports village-based projects to provide clean drinking water and reduce malaria, among other things, through its partnership and collaboration with the Sumba Foundation.

It’ll make your real life seem beige in comparison

Bali surfing paradise beach Nihi Sumba Island
Once you are all surfed out, relax and have a massage.

Waking to a view across your own plunge pool where a monitor lizard is taking a dip, before a breakfast of tropical fruits you’ve never even heard of before, overlooking an Indian Ocean without a single boat on it. A morning spent surfing or swimming, or hiking to a day spa on its own private beach, then a lunch of fresh-caught sashimi. Seeing off the hottest part of the day in a hammock under pandanus trees; before another surf, and a horse ride along a two-and-a-half-kilometre beach as the sun sets before dinner under the stars. How can normal life possibly compete?

Details

Getting there

Sumba is 400 kilometres east of Bali and 50 minutes by air. Garuda Indonesia flies daily between the two; or you can pay to have your flight and transfers between Bali and Sumba organised at Nihi Sumba Island’s office in Bali.

Staying there

Villas start from $845 USD per night including all meals, snacks and mini-bar.

 

 

Travelling to Bali soon? Check out our ultimate travel guide to Bali.

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Craig Tansley
Craig Tansley has been a travel writer for over 20 years, winning numerous awards along the way. A long-time sucker for adventure, he loves to write about the experiences to be had on islands, on the sea, in forests or deserts; or anywhere in nature across Australia, and the world.
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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
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    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.