Bali Bliss 101: Your guide to the island

Blissing out in Bali is as spiritual as it is invigorating. Here, all the basics to begin planning a Bali escape of your own.

I’ve woken early hoping to check emails only to find my new Mac PowerBook covered in rice and bougainvillea petals.

After a momentary gasp, the penny drops. The ever-considerate Balinese villa staff placed an offering on the lid imploring the Gods to restore the internet connectivity which was down last night.

A warm glow emanates from within me manifesting itself in a wide grin. Sure enough, when I turn the computer on, the connection is restored. “Namaste", I murmur, quickly bowing my head towards the device hoping the staff don’t witness my absurd western worship.

The sincere friendly service most visitors receive in Bali is the fundamental reason why many return, including myself and my young family.

That and the glorious beach sunsets, sublime taste sensations at cheap warungs (local eateries) and stylish semi-outdoor restaurants, body pampering on tap, plus verdant tropical landscapes. And above all, for the comfortable and sophisticated private villas and world-class resorts.

Very few island escapes tick all these boxes and more.

Bali’s Angels

Bali is a vibrant sanctuary of Hinduism nestled amongst thousands of Islamic islands making up the Republic of Indonesia.

Temples and shrines are scattered throughout the villages and religion permeate every aspect of daily life. You’re guaranteed to encounter ceremonies with locals in traditional dress bearing offerings to the Gods and spirits of the land. Morning beach walks often involve weaving through large groups casting colourful gifts into the ocean.

As a sensitive visitor, the rituals and observations affect your consciousness, creating a sense of calm and openness.

A humble offering wafts past (to be placed in the shrine) as I relax in my villa pool. The fragrant burning incense stick is comforting. I can’t help but feel that my day ahead has been formally blessed and my wishes just may be granted.

Seminyak is the area we like to base ourselves for its cosmopolitan buzz. Fashion boutiques, antique shops and homeware stores line the busy streets, and the golden beaches fringed with palm trees are dotted with luxury beachfront resorts and villas. The area entices surfers and sunset drinkers alike. Jalan Petitenget (in northern Seminyak) is a winding coastal strip that has fast become the island’s new gourmet centre. Scents of fresh ginger, coriander, shrimp paste and tamarind emanate from the humble warungs, and restaurants offering complex flavours from around the globe have foodies flocking in.

After a hectic afternoon of shopping in Seminyak, retiring back to the idyllic grounds of a peaceful villa rental in either Kerobokan or the neighbouring Umalas neighbourhood does wonders for frazzled chakras. Both are just a 15-minute drive from Seminyak.

Nothing beats entering your villa through giant wooden Javanese gates covered in pungent jasmine into an oasis of happiness: kids splashing in the pool whilst the husband commends the kitchen staff on yet another perfect daiquiri muddled with fresh berries.

We sit under the thatched alang-alang lounge pavilion as the tangerine sun slowly disappears behind the property wall lined with flame-red heliconias.

Bali High

Ubud is the cultural heartland of Bali and urban escapists head there for jungle tranquillity.

The drive there from Seminyak weaves through hamlets as you ascend into spectacular landscapes of lush forests and sinuous ribbons of rice growing on green terraces that wrap around the hillsides. Despite its commercial efforts, the town centre retains a genuine charm with its wall-to-wall art galleries, cafés and shops selling local crafts and jewellery.

Exclusive resort properties are nestled in the folds of the valleys just outside town. Some outdoor enthusiasts use Ubud as a base for mountain-biking, white-water rafting down the Ayung River or trekking up Mount Agung, Bali’s highest volcanic peak. But I’m a fan of luxury lock-down: spending two days absorbing the panoramic views from the edge of an infinity pool that juts out precariously from the hillside. Choosing between an in-house four hands massage or a coconut body scrub becomes the most ‘stressful’ decision for the day.

Sacred Monkey Forest Ubud — The Sacred Moneky Forest in Ubud.

When driving back from the highlands I once asked my driver Wayan why so many scarecrows and flags filled the rice fields. He laughed replying, “Miss D, the flags are not to scare off the birds, they wave to the gods to give us good crop". At the time I chuckled at the simplicity of their beliefs. Yet with each visit, I continue to marvel at the island’s bounty and convince myself that there is a greater force at play.

The details

Where to stay

Villa rentals are a cost-effective way of vacationing with family or a group of friends. Most include a private chef and staff, whilst some offer use of a car and driver. Elite Havens provide one- to six-bedroom villas, ranging from shabby chic cottages to glamorous havens.

AFFORDABLE

Bali Niksoma Beach Resort & Spa – has stunning poolside views of Legian Beach.

Address: Jalan Padma Utara, Legian Kaja

The Royal Beach Seminyak Bali – has a prime beachfront location and easy access to Seminyak.

Address: Jalan Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak

COMFORTABLE

Maya Ubud – set on hillside gardens cascading toward the river with the town centre just a five-minute drive away.

Address: Jalan Gunung Sari, Peliatan Ubud

The Dusun – you’ll find one to three-bedroom thatched-roofed private villas with plunge pools.

Address: Jalan Kayu Jati 8, Petitenget, Seminyak.

LUXURY

COMO Shambala Estate – a deluxe health retreat with villas perched on the mountain.

Address: Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Gianyar, Ubud.

Alila Villas Uluwatu – is full of contemporary villas poised on cliff-tops offering ocean views. Ideal for honeymooners or couples seeking seclusion.

Address: Jalan Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu.

What to do

Echo Beach: a surfing hot-spot in Canggu. The chilled cliff-top Beach House Restaurant, a Barbados-style café/bar, provides legendary sunset seafood BBQ’s.

Hotel Tugu Spa: a bespoke beachside paradise adorned with antique oriental furnishings. Signature treatments include hot stone massage and mantra chanting massage.

Nammos Kandara at Karma Kandara Resort: an exclusive getaway in the south, modelled after the private beach resorts of the Greek islands. Day visitors lounge beachside and snorkel in the lagoon.

Desa Seni: a yogini’s tropical nirvana – salute the sun under a shaded pavilion. Several drop-in classes run daily.

Jari Menari: a Japanese zen oasis offering body massages with signature long stroke movements.

Espace Spa Bali: a tranquil day spa for reflexology, firm massages and deep cleansing facials.

Bogan-free Bali

Avoid Kuta like the plague (it’s congested with cheap holiday digs, shopping malls and nightclubs). If you’re hunting for affordable trinkets for the kids (imitation sunnies, watches and DVD’s) head to Jalan Padma, Legian. It’s loaded with all-day bars full of bum cracks peeping out of boardies, but better there than Kuta.

When should I go?

The dry season is from April to October and that’s an ideal time to travel. Average temperatures, of around 26°C make for a humid stay all year round.

Accommodation rates:

Low season – mid January – late May / mid September – mid December

High season – June – mid September (also Easter week)

Peak tourist season – mid December – mid January & August

Six things you need to know

1. Australians must purchase 30-day travel visas (available on arrival for $23.70 cash). Departure tax is $14.80 per person and paid upon departure.

2. Expect long immigration queues on arrival (waits sometimes over one hour).

3. Never drink from a tap. Most hotels/villas provide free bottled water.

4. The Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) is the official currency. ATM’s are located in all major tourist areas.

5. Pack the mosquito repellent, plus a light cardigan for Ubud.

6. Wine mark-up is steep. Cocktails are cheaper by the glass.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

For the kids

Waterbom Bali: aquatic playgrounds and water slides set in tropical gardens for all levels of thrill seekers.

Rip Curl Surf School: Little Ripper classes for wannabe surfer dudes.

Bali Equestrian Centre: offers riding lessons for all ages. A highlight is the coastal sunset beach tour.

Elephant Safari Park Lodge: ride and play with Sumatran elephants with the option to stay overnight. These folks have been classified as having a Gold certificate for the Asian Captive Elephant Standards.

Where to eat

Métis Bali: dine on innovative French cuisine whilst overlooking rice paddies and lotus ponds.

Metis Bali — The view from Métis is stunning

Biku: a comfy antique sanctuary. Swoon over the cake display (decent strong coffee too), or work through the Indo menu.

Sarong: works with Indian, Balinese, Thai, Sumatran, Vietnamese, and Malaysian flavours to create a distinct modern menu of excellent gourmet street food.
The atmosphere is sultry-glam: chandeliers, candles and plush lounges.

Warung Ibu Oka: lunchtime crowds gather at this humble eatery across from Ubud’s Royal Palace for its signature dish: babi guling (roast suckling pig served with rice and sayur). Strictly bott’s on mats and no shoes!

Where to drink

Potato Head Beach Club: a beachfront amphitheatre-with-attitude. DJ’s spin day and night. Simple bar snacks through to French fine dining upstairs.

Ku Dé Ta: Indo meets Ibiza at this oceanfront institution. The bronzed and the beautiful lounge here all day, but it sizzles from 5pm when the sun melts into the ocean against a backdrop of cool tunes.

The Rock Bar: for those who like their drinks on the rocks (literally). Ayana Resort and Spa’s bar comprises a drinking platform poised just metres above the surf.

For your guide on all things Bali, head here to learn everything you need to know.

After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers?

In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.

Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?

Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?

How tourism is changing in Nepal

Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.

Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.

“Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.

Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”

Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.”

CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.

A new generation demanding more

Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”

We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”

Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels — Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you…

bouda stupa prayer flags — Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.

Boudha Stupa vendors — Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.

A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.

Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.

Life unfiltered in the Terai region

tharu woman — Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.

Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.

Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.

Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

“The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.

On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.

community homestay entrance — A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.

The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.

In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.

food at community homestay — Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.

The power of community homestays

community homestay owners in Nepal — Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.

“I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?”

The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed.

Sonara community room — An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.

Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.

CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.

“Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.

In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.

“We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.”

Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”

Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal.

Bali Bliss 101