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Why you should pay more for a safari

International Traveller
From camping in a holey tent in the Serengeti to sleeping in a lodge with butler service, our digital editor Steve Madgwick has safaried in more ways than one. Here are his pro-tips on how to choose your safari.

First, let me be clear, I am not saying that you have to pay exorbitant money for your first/next African safari. What I do recommend, however, is to ask a few questions before you book. Not only will you get better bang for your buck, but ultimately you should have a more ethical and more comfortable safari, too.

 

But, and this is a big but, while paying a fair price should benefit you, the local community and ultimately Africa’s wildlife, there’s one thing it will never guarantee: that you will see more animals or spot the ones you want to.

 

How do I know? Because I have safaried at the polar ends of the budget scale (plus a few in between), from camping in a holey, smelly tent in the Serengeti, to a recent couple of decadent evenings in perhaps the most luxurious lodge within a lion’s roar of Kruger National Park, Ivory Lodge, in adjacent Sabi Sands. Where, ahem, I even had my own butler. Tent, three-star, or five-star, the animals you’ll see is just a matter of being in the right place at the right time. Such is nature’s serendipity.

 

Of course, a thousands-of-dollars-a-night private lodge will (or at least should) win in every other department; spas, private plunge pools, signature cocktails and service to make you feel like a lion king or queen. And the current reality is that the high-end experiences have the resources to answer the questions below better than many a budget operator.

 

But not always. So it’s time to set some expectations for the safari you want: ethical, comfortable and well-rounded.

1. The Fairtrade question(s)

Instead of just saying “woo-hoo, my God, things are cheap here!" start by asking yourself how much you would like to be paid (as a professional tour guide) for driving a group of tourists around the wilderness for a few very long days. If the price an operator quotes you seems too cheap to be true, then someone, somewhere along the way, is not making a fair wage.

 

As a backpacker in the ’90s, I watched my guide tear up when I told him (after he asked) how much I had paid for the safari (versus what the operator had paid him). The difference was monumental.

 

Ensure that you have both a driver/guide and an animal tracker on board – they are two specialist jobs, often filled by locals (especially the tracker role). Having only a driver will save you money, but the sharp eye of a tracker who’s grown up in the area may be the difference between seeing the ‘Big 5’ and the ‘Big 2 or 3’.

 

And, just because a company says that it’s Fairtrade, doesn’t mean that it necessarily is. If in doubt, keep those questions coming!

2. How do you treat the animals?

Despite your need for that award-winning (or at least lounge-room-wall-filling) photograph, remember that closer is not always better for your subjects.

 

On one budget safari I was on in the outstanding Ngorongoro Conservation Area (Tanzania), I was in a pack of eight vehicles that were literally chasing a lion that in turn was chasing a young zebra. The pursuit clearly affected the outcome of that day’s hunt; several times we got in between the two, for a better vantage point. Yay, for the young zebra, you might say, but this is not your Circle of Life to meddle in.

 

Because of the varying degrees of regulation (or lack thereof) across Africa’s safari countries, the operators themselves are left to self-enforce some ethical standards; again, usually more so by the operators with more resources.

 

Leading the way are private game concessions at places such as Lion Sands (in Sabi Sands), which do not chase animals (once they get them in sight) and refuse outright to track rhinos for tourists. The guides are especially careful not to give away the rhino’s positions on their radios, lest a poacher is listening in. As nature intends, you simply have to be lucky enough to happen across the rhino here (I saw a couple, anyway).

 

Good operators respect the animals and the environment, too. I’ve seen guides (on both sides of the budget spectrum), stop their trucks to pick up a single piece of rubbish.

3. Do you train your guides and trackers?

Ask the safari operator, how (or if) they train their guides and trackers. The difference between someone who just drives a beat-up LandCruiser around the savannah and a guide who’s studied at one of Africa’s academies will become self-evident after about five minutes out there.

 

Have a few curveball questions ready to throw at your guide to test them beforehand; for example, what’s the difference between black and white rhino? If they stroll past the difference (for the record: not the colour but the lip width. ‘Wide’ was mistranslated into ‘white’) and into the plight of this ultra-threatened species, you’re probably in good hands.

 

I met a safari group in Uganda’s Murchison Falls National Park (where Ernest Hemingway survived two plane crashes) who nicknamed their guide of five days ‘I Don’t Know’. Remember, Google won’t help you out on the plains and, ultimately, training people shows a long-term commitment to the animals and the local communities that rely upon them for income.

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4. What about the savannah traffic jam?

Most safaris take place in vast country-sized national parks, Kruger, Serengeti, Maasai Mara, et al, but be aware (if only for your own experience) that peak season in some parks, including the above-mentioned Ngorongoro Conservation Area, can get a more than a little crowded in peak holiday season. We’ve all seen pictures of ten vehicles circling one lion; which can feel more zoo-like than the bucket-list ticking wildlife moment you’ve saved all your life for.

 

As I’ve said above, a safari on a private concession such as Sabi Sands will not guarantee you more interaction, but it can better your chances of a more ‘personal’ interaction with one or more of the big mammals. Like it or not, as a general rule, the more you pay for your safari the fewer people you will have in your truck and the fewer other trucks you’ll see on your game drive throughout the day.

5. What about me? The comfort factor and those little extras

If this is your once-in-a-lifetime safari, then you are probably going to be spending quite a few mornings and evenings out on the sometimes hot, sometimes chilly, yet always bumpy African plains. Here’s a good time to start asking questions about your vehicle: How old is it? Is it a 4WD (yes, some aren’t)?

 

Look for customised vehicles that go further than just de-roofing a LandCruiser. Heavy-duty suspension, beefy bash plates, and, most importantly, the most comfy, padded seats that money can buy (you’ll thank me after about two hours) are all important.

 

Look for a vehicle with only two seats across and a retractable roof so everyone gets a ‘window’ when that leopard-stalking-prey moment arises. Of course, the more you pay, the more savannah extras will be added on to your comfort list: wildlife spotter’s guides, binoculars, hatches to stow your cameras, thick woollen blankets to fight the morning chill and, crucially, well-stocked mini bars for the mandatory safari sundowner.

 

For more on ethical and sustainable travel and wildlife experiences visit our Conscious Traveller section.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Why you should pay more for an African safari | International Traveller